Heated Gear - Where Does It Connect?

[Used Ninja]

This is what I'm planning to buy, along with some 11W gloves:

http://www.motorcycle-superstore.com...d-jacket-liner

So it is a total of 76W, which most likely won't be fully used so I think I'm safe as far as wattage goes, but I was wondering about how I would hook this up. Would I have to tap into pre-existing wires to do this, and if so, which wires would you guys recommend I splice into? (This is for a 2008 Ninja)

Much appreciated, guys!

[Business810]

I have an SAE connector for a battery tender hooked up directly to the battery on both of my bikes. I just use an SAE to DC coax adapter cable, like this one, to hook up my glove liners.

Easy, no splicing, and no chance of leaving something on to run down the battery.

[NevadaWolf]

The power wires go straight to the battery and leave the part you plug into dangling out. I have mine wired up under the seat and poking out just above the side cover next to the tank. There should be an in-line fuse on the positive wire that you can change the fuse to match what you are adding (jacket, gloves, pants, insoles, etc). Not that our bike will support it, but that's what it is designed for.

I have a Gerbing's jacket that uses 77 watts. With a few other electrical things plugged in, i can still run it on high and have no problems. However, once i hit the hi beam, the jacket drains the battery faster than the stator can recharge.

The biggest thing i would recommend getting is a voltmeter to show how your battery is doing as you use the jacket.

[Used Ninja]

Originally Posted by Business810

I have an SAE connector for a battery tender hooked up directly to the battery on both of my bikes. I just use an SAE to DC coax adapter cable, like this one, to hook up my glove liners.

Easy, no splicing, and no chance of leaving something on to run down the battery.

Haha thanks this could be useful for me... after looking at Nevada's post I now see the battery connector / fuse box in the troller kit but I'm guessing you use it without the kit so it goes on full heat or what? If I can save $85 then that's good.

Originally Posted by NevadaWolf

The power wires go straight to the battery and leave the part you plug into dangling out. I have mine wired up under the seat and poking out just above the side cover next to the tank. There should be an in-line fuse on the positive wire that you can change the fuse to match what you are adding (jacket, gloves, pants, insoles, etc). Not that our bike will support it, but that's what it is designed for.

I have a Gerbing's jacket that uses 77 watts. With a few other electrical things plugged in, i can still run it on high and have no problems. However, once i hit the hi beam, the jacket drains the battery faster than the stator can recharge.

The biggest thing i would recommend getting is a voltmeter to show how your battery is doing as you use the jacket.

Awesome! I see that now in the troller kit... so I guess that's a good thing since I will be using gloves with it, since I'm getting a low-wattage jacket (Texas winters aren't THAT bad). I have a voltmeter though, so I'll check things out... I just hope I can still use my highbeams; I run with them on 24/7 because that's what I was taught. I'm sure people hate me because of it...

[csmith12]

Originally Posted by Used Ninja

I run with them on 24/7 because that's what I was taught. I'm sure people hate me because of it...

Even the stock bright lights aren't that bad on other drivers. I bet that most don't really care or can tell tell the difference. The times I have been told "I have a headlight out" vastly outnumbers the times I have been told to dim my lights. lol

[Used Ninja]

Originally Posted by csmith12

Even the stock bright lights aren't that bad on other drivers. I bet that most don't really care or can tell tell the difference. The times I have been told "I have a headlight out" vastly outnumbers the times I have been told to dim my lights. lol

Haha, alright good... I always think about that on the ride but think "I'd rather be noticed..." I thought that as well until a fellow ninjette rider complained about my brights and I was like psssh they aren't bad.

She was just being a wuss . Or it was dark out... I forget.

Anywho I'm putting in an order for the glove liner as well as the jacket liner now! Still gotta look at this troller thing...

[Alex]

Here's where I ran the wires:

GPS and heated clothing

(linked from our main DIY sticky thread)

[NevadaWolf]

Originally Posted by Used Ninja

Haha thanks this could be useful for me... after looking at Nevada's post I now see the battery connector / fuse box in the troller kit but I'm guessing you use it without the kit so it goes on full heat or what? If I can save $85 then that's good.

The fuse is on the wire itself coming off the battery. AFAIK there is no fuse in the controller. If First Gear is like Gerbing, they should supply you with the battery connection with each piece of clothing, on the assumption it may be the only piece you own.

Originally Posted by Used Ninja

Awesome! I see that now in the troller kit... so I guess that's a good thing since I will be using gloves with it, since I'm getting a low-wattage jacket (Texas winters aren't THAT bad). I have a voltmeter though, so I'll check things out... I just hope I can still use my highbeams; I run with them on 24/7 because that's what I was taught. I'm sure people hate me because of it...

My personal opinion would be if winters aren't that bad and you are fairly normal in your tolerance to heat and cold, get the controller. These clothes are HOT when pumping 100% of the power onto you. How the jacket works is the controller will pulse the power at an increasing rate until at full. So low is actually just a very slow on-off-on-off etc. The controller is great for when i have the jacket on full heat (i have a VERY low tolerance to cold) but i can turn it down when i come into town and face stop and go traffic or stop lights and my engine isn't providing enough revs to keep the battery happy.

Note i also have wheel lights, side running lights, a phone charger, a gps charger, and a Koso gauge all running at the same time which is why i have hi beam issues. That doesn't include the times i have my Sena plugged in or the spare 12v plug in use. I am really running in the red on power.

There are two types of controllers. I have the dual controller in hopes of one day being able to get enough juice to run gloves. The dual will let you set the two clothes at different temps, so maybe low for the jacket but medium for the gloves. I think the gloves can also directly attach to the jacket so the single controller can power both, but then you have the same heat for each piece.

Anyway, just wanted to throw that out there.

[Used Ninja]

Originally Posted by Alex

Here's where I ran the wires:

GPS and heated clothing

(linked from our main DIY sticky thread)

Looks sexy! I have no idea where my zip ties went tbh I think they may all be gone but looks like a nice mount.. also just realized it is 11 watts per so 65 + 11 + 11 = 87W...

Originally Posted by NevadaWolf

The fuse is on the wire itself coming off the battery. AFAIK there is no fuse in the controller. If First Gear is like Gerbing, they should supply you with the battery connection with each piece of clothing, on the assumption it may be the only piece you own.



My personal opinion would be if winters aren't that bad and you are fairly normal in your tolerance to heat and cold, get the controller. These clothes are HOT when pumping 100% of the power onto you. How the jacket works is the controller will pulse the power at an increasing rate until at full. So low is actually just a very slow on-off-on-off etc. The controller is great for when i have the jacket on full heat (i have a VERY low tolerance to cold) but i can turn it down when i come into town and face stop and go traffic or stop lights and my engine isn't providing enough revs to keep the battery happy.

Note i also have wheel lights, side running lights, a phone charger, a gps charger, and a Koso gauge all running at the same time which is why i have hi beam issues. That doesn't include the times i have my Sena plugged in or the spare 12v plug in use. I am really running in the red on power.

There are two types of controllers. I have the dual controller in hopes of one day being able to get enough juice to run gloves. The dual will let you set the two clothes at different temps, so maybe low for the jacket but medium for the gloves. I think the gloves can also directly attach to the jacket so the single controller can power both, but then you have the same heat for each piece.

Anyway, just wanted to throw that out there.

Yeah as far as I can tell, there are no wires included for this First Gear stuff. I'm only buying this brand because I don't feel like shopping around tbh.

I absolutely hate the cold, but I'm feeling like I might get too hot from the jacket portion... my hands are what really need it so I guess I'm buying the controller! It's Texas so it isn't -that- bad but it is bad to me... I'll try it out without the controller to see how everything runs and how hot it gets... I feel like $85 for what I assume is a fusebox wire and two variable resistors / capacitors seems overpriced... and whoa what the heck you are tricked out lmao. That'll be me when I get finances straight .

Yeah I'm getting the dual no question about that... portable, wired lmao. $45 more for wireless is silly especially since the wires seem long enough.

Thanks everyone... seriously this forum is awesome.

[g21-30]

http://www.ninjette.org/forums/showthread.php?t=31087