October 6th, 2013, 06:49 PM | #1 |
ninjette.org member
Name: Pedro
Location: Mexico
Join Date: Jul 2013 Motorcycle(s): Pregen body with a newgen engine. Posts: 117
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how screwed up is this?
Long story short I broke this screw that holds the header pipes...
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October 6th, 2013, 07:18 PM | #2 |
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Name: Justin
Location: Florida
Join Date: Aug 2012 Motorcycle(s): Ninja 250 2001 Posts: A lot.
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I think it's threaded on both sides. Take some vice grips and see if you can unscrew the whole thing.
Do you go riding through mud a lot or something? Worst case scenario you'll just need a screw extractor, drill bit and a punch. Possibly a tap to rethread it.....
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October 6th, 2013, 07:47 PM | #3 |
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Name: Hernan
Location: Florida
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Yes; as explained above.
I would use some heat on the bolt because that should be very tight after 6 years in there. Before you give up, weld some cross bar on the stud (previously disconnecting the battery).
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October 7th, 2013, 08:21 PM | #4 | |
ninjette.org member
Name: Pedro
Location: Mexico
Join Date: Jul 2013 Motorcycle(s): Pregen body with a newgen engine. Posts: 117
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Quote:
Thanks, I think you're right about it being threaded on both ends. |
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October 7th, 2013, 08:23 PM | #5 |
ninjette.org member
Name: Pedro
Location: Mexico
Join Date: Jul 2013 Motorcycle(s): Pregen body with a newgen engine. Posts: 117
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Thanks!, I'll start by using some penetrating oil such as WD-40 probably for a couple of days.... I don't want to risk breaking the stud where it goes into the engine, I really don't...
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October 8th, 2013, 03:21 AM | #6 |
ninjette.org guru
Name: harry
Location: Central Florida
Join Date: Sep 2013 Motorcycle(s): 2006 Ninja 250, 2004 Buell XB12s, Honda 110 Elite Posts: 332
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WD-40
WD-40 is not a good penetrant, it is designed to displace water (WD = Water Displacing). Go to the auto parts store and get a can of Seafoam "Deep Creep". Use a propane torch to heat up the stud boss (the cylindrical aluminum projection the stud screws into) a little, then spray on the deep creep. Repeat a few times. Give it a few days.
Then warm it up and unscrew the stud. You only want to warm it up a little, so the aluminum expands. If you get it too hot, the stud will also expand. The proper tool to use is called a stud puller. You may be able to rent one at Autozone. ****CAUTION**** Do not apply any side load to the old stud while breaking it loose. If it does not want to unscrew without much force, repeat the heat soak/deep creep applications. If you break the stud off, you are in a world of poo. |
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October 8th, 2013, 06:45 AM | #7 |
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Name: Jay
Location: WI
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^ That's what I'd do with it as well. The right amount of heat will help a lot in that situation.
When you feel it start to move, go forward, then back, as you turn it out - moving slowly only about 1/8 turn out or less each time. It should get easier as you go, but backing-up occasionally is a good idea and usually helps keep it from snapping. The same type of back-and-forth movement works well if you have spark plugs that are really snug and difficult to remove. |
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October 8th, 2013, 07:29 AM | #8 |
I'm crazy,your excuse is?
Name: Winston
Location: Connecticut
Join Date: May 2013 Motorcycle(s): 250 2007 ninja Posts: A lot.
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anyone use the "CRC Freeze Off" penetrant?
Supposedly supercools the the bolt to make it shrink and allow penetrant to soak in better. |
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