September 7th, 2014, 10:58 AM | #1 |
Urban Legend
Name: Baron
Location: Brampton, ON
Join Date: Apr 2014 Motorcycle(s): 09 Ninja 250R SE - Circe Posts: 542
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Front brake bleeding problem
Every bloody time I do something that I haven't done before, I screw up somewhere. This time it's with the front brakes. I bled my rear brakes yesterday and they are fine. However the front ones not so much.
So quick summary, I was bleeding my front brakes using the one man bleeding system/more or less just a jar. I was talking on the phone the same time so I didn't see when the front reservoir emptied itself. Needless to say that WHEN I did notice it I put in more fluid but after that point, it started to go downhill. I got all old fluid out of my system and from the looks of it all the air too however, no matter how much I pump and bleed the brakes, they won't catch at all. If I continue to bleed the brakes, that's just pumping out clear brake fluid. Pumping the brakes isn't helping at this time because it's being rather stubborn and I could seemingly do it for days without it actually working......
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September 7th, 2014, 11:13 AM | #2 |
sammich maker
Name: snot
Location: West Ohio - in the kitchen
Join Date: Feb 2012 Motorcycle(s): 2013 white 300, 09 KLX 250 SF, 09 thunder blue 250(traded) Posts: A lot.
MOTM - Apr '15
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Tap the lines and caliper, you still might have air in the system. Also check the caliper to make sure it is functioning correctly as well as the cable.
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September 7th, 2014, 11:18 AM | #3 |
The Corner Whisperer
Name: Chris (aka Reactor)
Location: Northern KY
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Put the clear tube into a 20oz pop bottle (lower than the caliper), pump until the fluid is above the line in the bottle, then you can start bleeding. Fill the res and keep pumping while keeping the res full until there is no air bubbles. If needed, zip tie the lever overnight and repeat in the AM. Your brakes will be SOLID!
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September 7th, 2014, 11:40 AM | #4 | ||
Urban Legend
Name: Baron
Location: Brampton, ON
Join Date: Apr 2014 Motorcycle(s): 09 Ninja 250R SE - Circe Posts: 542
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Quote:
Quote:
1. I get a soda bottle 2. Place it on the ground[lower than the caliper] Here's where I am unclear. Do I keep the nut open and then pump the fluid in it???
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"Life is like riding - You can either tear the fastlane in half or stay in the slipstream trying to play catch up." -Baron |
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September 7th, 2014, 11:44 AM | #5 |
sammich maker
Name: snot
Location: West Ohio - in the kitchen
Join Date: Feb 2012 Motorcycle(s): 2013 white 300, 09 KLX 250 SF, 09 thunder blue 250(traded) Posts: A lot.
MOTM - Apr '15
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place the bottle lower that the caliper, open nut, pump...
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September 7th, 2014, 11:48 AM | #6 |
Urban Legend
Name: Baron
Location: Brampton, ON
Join Date: Apr 2014 Motorcycle(s): 09 Ninja 250R SE - Circe Posts: 542
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cool. I update it in a bit.
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"Life is like riding - You can either tear the fastlane in half or stay in the slipstream trying to play catch up." -Baron |
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September 7th, 2014, 11:51 AM | #7 |
ninjette.org sage
Name: Aaron
Location: Winder, GA
Join Date: Jun 2012 Motorcycle(s): 2013 Ninja 300 Posts: 718
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The zip-tie trick is a winner. There's likely just some air stuck up near the master cylinder (or something) somewhere that's being stubborn; leaving the brake lever pulled at least overnight should give it time to migrate up into the reservoir.
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September 7th, 2014, 11:54 AM | #8 |
The Corner Whisperer
Name: Chris (aka Reactor)
Location: Northern KY
Join Date: May 2011 Motorcycle(s): 2010 250 (track), 1992 250, 2006 R6 (street/track), 2008 R6 (track) Posts: Too much.
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Spot on! Pump until fluid looks clear and no bubbles. I had a tough one once, took me a whole bottle of new fluid to get it sorted.
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Goal: Shake A Million Hands | Look through the corners | Track Day Prep | Closest track? | The Mid-Ohio School |
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September 7th, 2014, 12:00 PM | #9 |
sammich maker
Name: snot
Location: West Ohio - in the kitchen
Join Date: Feb 2012 Motorcycle(s): 2013 white 300, 09 KLX 250 SF, 09 thunder blue 250(traded) Posts: A lot.
MOTM - Apr '15
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This happened to me on the rear. I used my shoe lace (was still on my shoe) to hold the tube into the little Tupperware container (no bottle). I used 1/2 bottle to get all the bubbles out.
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September 7th, 2014, 12:01 PM | #10 |
Fix It Till Ya Break It
Name: Asspyre
Location: T.Dot
Join Date: Oct 2011 Motorcycle(s): 08 250RRrrrr Posts: 623
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https://www.ninjette.org/forums/showthread.php?t=147436
see bottom of post on bleeding, bikes are easy to bleed. just do it step by step, if you still have problems let me know |
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September 7th, 2014, 12:03 PM | #11 |
The Corner Whisperer
Name: Chris (aka Reactor)
Location: Northern KY
Join Date: May 2011 Motorcycle(s): 2010 250 (track), 1992 250, 2006 R6 (street/track), 2008 R6 (track) Posts: Too much.
MOTY 2015, MOTM - Nov '12, Nov '13
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^^^^
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Goal: Shake A Million Hands | Look through the corners | Track Day Prep | Closest track? | The Mid-Ohio School |
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September 7th, 2014, 12:54 PM | #12 |
Urban Legend
Name: Baron
Location: Brampton, ON
Join Date: Apr 2014 Motorcycle(s): 09 Ninja 250R SE - Circe Posts: 542
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Thank you everyone for helping out.
I just finished zip tying the bastard. I'll check in a bit. Also can anyone tell me which screws are used in the front brake reservoir? I swear these things are made of wax.
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"Life is like riding - You can either tear the fastlane in half or stay in the slipstream trying to play catch up." -Baron |
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September 7th, 2014, 01:16 PM | #13 |
ninjette.org sage
Name: Aaron
Location: Winder, GA
Join Date: Jun 2012 Motorcycle(s): 2013 Ninja 300 Posts: 718
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Just curious, are you using the screwdriver included in the bike toolkit?
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September 7th, 2014, 01:21 PM | #14 |
Urban Legend
Name: Baron
Location: Brampton, ON
Join Date: Apr 2014 Motorcycle(s): 09 Ninja 250R SE - Circe Posts: 542
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Unfortunately it didn't come with a tool kit so I got myself a 200pc toolkit some time ago, found the correct screwdriver and was using that one.
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"Life is like riding - You can either tear the fastlane in half or stay in the slipstream trying to play catch up." -Baron |
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September 7th, 2014, 01:23 PM | #15 |
ninjette.org sage
Name: W
Location: Austin, TX
Join Date: Mar 2010 Motorcycle(s): 2010 Ninja 250R (sold), 2012 Tuono V4R Posts: 512
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From my recollection of doing this a couple of years ago, it took myself and a friend about 20-30 minutes of handbleeding the front brake before it finally would work.
The rear brake is easy to do and takes no time because the line is mostly horizontal and bubbles are easily bled out.
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September 7th, 2014, 08:09 PM | #16 |
ninjette.org sage
Name: Aaron
Location: Winder, GA
Join Date: Jun 2012 Motorcycle(s): 2013 Ninja 300 Posts: 718
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This post finally motivated me to get out and put on my Apex lines I got over a year ago. I've run half a 12 Oz. bottle of fluid through the rear and I'm STILL getting some small bubbles. Hopefully the front isn't that much worse.
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September 7th, 2014, 08:12 PM | #17 |
Wrench wench
Name: The Stigette
Location: DC/MD/VA
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Get some speed bleeders, never struggle again.
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September 7th, 2014, 08:51 PM | #18 |
ninjette.org sage
Name: Aaron
Location: Winder, GA
Join Date: Jun 2012 Motorcycle(s): 2013 Ninja 300 Posts: 718
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I'm not having any trouble with backflow or anything, so I'm not sure speed bleeders would change much. I do wish I had the $40 to spend on a mityvac, though.
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September 7th, 2014, 09:36 PM | #19 |
Wrench wench
Name: The Stigette
Location: DC/MD/VA
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Backflow's not the only thing bleeders help with, they make the whole job so much faster. Literally like 10 minutes for a full flush. I HAVE a mityvac and I stopped using it the moment I installed the speedbleeders, because the former is much more finnicky than the latter. Also more expensive. ($40 vs $20)
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September 7th, 2014, 11:29 PM | #20 |
ninjette.org certified postwhore
Name: TC
Location: Hawaii
Join Date: Sep 2013 Motorcycle(s): A lot. Posts: A lot.
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Once you get this sorted, please post back with your procedure.
Seems I've done this a million times, but someone always comes out of left field with some little tiny tidbit of thought that makes me think "Why didn't I come up with that?" Hopefully you've figured it out by now.
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September 8th, 2014, 09:01 AM | #21 |
Certified Troublemaker
Name: Teri
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We had a hell of a time on the front lines when putting the steel lines on the 300.
We used a vacuum bleeder kit on the bike and that seemed to helped alot.
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September 8th, 2014, 07:07 PM | #22 | |||
Urban Legend
Name: Baron
Location: Brampton, ON
Join Date: Apr 2014 Motorcycle(s): 09 Ninja 250R SE - Circe Posts: 542
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Quote:
Quote:
Quote:
So I did what was posted above, I did go through nearly half a bottle of brake fluid but I was able to get it to an okay state. However I had some chores to handle and work in the morning so I wasn't able to leave it overnight. I did a quick bleed when I got back from work today before heading out to Motorcycle Monday and it's more or less satisfactory now. It still feels a wee bit soft at times and pumping the brake a few times does make it firm so I'm guessing there is still some air in it somewhere. I'll probably try it next weekend. However the zip tie procedure works. I went the miser's way. Wish I hadn't.
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"Life is like riding - You can either tear the fastlane in half or stay in the slipstream trying to play catch up." -Baron |
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September 8th, 2014, 07:11 PM | #23 |
Wrench wench
Name: The Stigette
Location: DC/MD/VA
Join Date: Jun 2014 Motorcycle(s): TWO HUNDRED FORTY EIGHT CUBIC CENTIMETERS (R.I.P.), SIX HUNDRED FORTY FIVE CUBIC CENTIMETERS Posts: 415
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The speed bleeder website has a sizing chart. I think newgens use a SB8125L, but check yourself to make sure.
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September 8th, 2014, 07:46 PM | #24 | |
Urban Legend
Name: Baron
Location: Brampton, ON
Join Date: Apr 2014 Motorcycle(s): 09 Ninja 250R SE - Circe Posts: 542
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Quote:
Also does anyone know which screws does the reservoir take. I nearly stripped one of them. I found out it's 8-32 1/2 inch but one of the person told me that it was a metric screw since the ones I looked at in Canadian tire didn't have the same number of threads.
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"Life is like riding - You can either tear the fastlane in half or stay in the slipstream trying to play catch up." -Baron |
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September 8th, 2014, 07:48 PM | #25 |
Wrench wench
Name: The Stigette
Location: DC/MD/VA
Join Date: Jun 2014 Motorcycle(s): TWO HUNDRED FORTY EIGHT CUBIC CENTIMETERS (R.I.P.), SIX HUNDRED FORTY FIVE CUBIC CENTIMETERS Posts: 415
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Try ebay, too.
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September 8th, 2014, 07:58 PM | #26 | |
ninjette.org sage
Name: Aaron
Location: Winder, GA
Join Date: Jun 2012 Motorcycle(s): 2013 Ninja 300 Posts: 718
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Quote:
As for the screws, take one to a hardware store. They should have something there you can try the screw in until you find the right size/thread pitch. |
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September 8th, 2014, 07:58 PM | #27 | |
Fix It Till Ya Break It
Name: Asspyre
Location: T.Dot
Join Date: Oct 2011 Motorcycle(s): 08 250RRrrrr Posts: 623
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Quote:
brafasco, or fastenal, some times home depot |
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September 8th, 2014, 08:11 PM | #28 | |
Urban Legend
Name: Baron
Location: Brampton, ON
Join Date: Apr 2014 Motorcycle(s): 09 Ninja 250R SE - Circe Posts: 542
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Quote:
Thanks I'll be checking out both tomorrow, with any luck I should be able to find a match.
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"Life is like riding - You can either tear the fastlane in half or stay in the slipstream trying to play catch up." -Baron |
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September 8th, 2014, 08:41 PM | #29 |
ninjette.org sage
Name: Aaron
Location: Winder, GA
Join Date: Jun 2012 Motorcycle(s): 2013 Ninja 300 Posts: 718
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One more thing I thought about while out riding just now: exactly how are you bleeding the front? Are you squeezing the lever and building up pressure before opening the bleeder or are you opening the bleeder and then squeezing? Both will technically work, but the former is theoretically better. By squeezing the lever and building pressure in the line before opening the bleeder, you are compressing any air trapped in the line, reducing its buoyancy. This should mean less regression of air back up the line between pulls.
Probably not enough to make a huge difference, but it's something. |
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