October 30th, 2009, 06:26 PM | #121 |
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That's OK about the switch. I'm thinking the gray wire, which isn't connected to anything on the '88-94 CDI, may have something to do with the kickstand issue. It appears that it only connects the '08 CDI to the ignition.
I couldn't pass up the chance to rib you a little on the multiple changes. As I stated, we have all done it. |
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October 30th, 2009, 09:50 PM | #122 |
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After reading how you motorcycle gurus were able to take a pregen CDI and adapt it for a newgen bike it got me thinking. Since the BRT TIS ignition only available for the newgen could it be adapted for use on a pregen?
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October 30th, 2009, 10:06 PM | #123 |
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I think you would need the schematic of the BRT TIS to answer that question.
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October 31st, 2009, 05:03 AM | #124 |
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If someone will post a pic of the connector on the BRT TIS, I will hazard a guess. My first thought is it could be wired to fit the '88-94 pregen. For '95 and up, I don't have a schematic of the OEM harness.
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October 31st, 2009, 05:48 AM | #125 |
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The 2008 ninja 250 connector plugs straight into the BRT-TIS unit . I don't think it would be a problem to reverse wire it to the 88-94 or the 95 to 07 bikes . The only one that wont work is the 86-87 because they have a dual pick up .
oops THe wiring pattern on the 95-07 is different but the system is the same.I think the wire colors are the same .The only reason I used the 88-94 box was the 15000 rpm limiter. Last futzed with by Racer x; October 31st, 2009 at 03:01 PM. |
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October 31st, 2009, 08:30 AM | #126 |
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I am not familiar with electrical wiring, correct me if i'm wrong, but it sounds like I need to get a schematic for an 08/09 and one for 89 - 07 and make a harness to mate the BRT TIS to my bike.
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October 31st, 2009, 09:53 AM | #127 |
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Rick there was a typo in the 2nd part of Racer-X's post. You need a schematic for '95-07. My harness (+Racer-x's) is for an '88-94. There is not a schematic for the '08+ in this thread.
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October 31st, 2009, 10:58 AM | #128 |
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October 31st, 2009, 11:03 AM | #129 |
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Kerry, Thanks! It's been too long. I saw starter lockout and blew right by it!
And the one I have for '08 is much more detailed, because the one you posted was from the starter section of the service manual. |
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October 31st, 2009, 11:07 AM | #130 |
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Did you ever try and jump the clutch switch, to the neutral switch, to see if the kick stand switch could still be used?
The green line in 08 pic: |
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October 31st, 2009, 11:12 AM | #131 |
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Nope. Removable jumper (connector with a loop) is in place. I like it much better.
Wasn't able to get a sticky for the CDI Troubleshooting thread, so you can find it here: http://www.ninjette.org/forums/showthread.php?t=33076 Last futzed with by g21-30; November 13th, 2009 at 04:35 AM. |
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January 15th, 2010, 01:36 PM | #132 |
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I've now had a few runs up the hill since doing the CDI swap and I have to say I don't notice the advance curve enhancing power. It does rev past the redline, so I know the CDI is working as advertised.
That being said... I love the change. I'm one of those that hates hitting the rev limiter. It happens all too often with this bike when gearing down to pass someone quickly while traveling uphill. With the new CDI, that problem is a thing of the past. I'm usually pretty aware of when the bike is near the redline by the engine wail, but now it doesn't fall on its face when I need to make that pass should I hit the stock engine ignition cutoff when doing so. Thanks again, Sam, for the well detailed DIY and the help you provided offline. |
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January 15th, 2010, 05:01 PM | #133 |
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No increase in hp but did you noticed any increase in throttle respOnse?
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January 15th, 2010, 05:06 PM | #134 |
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no... not really.
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January 15th, 2010, 06:24 PM | #135 |
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kelly,
You're more than welcome! I love the fact that the tachometer is ALWAYS correct, now. |
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May 19th, 2010, 03:10 PM | #136 |
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Sam,
Just had to thank you again for this mod. I had a chance to really push the bike this weekend and appreciated being able to keep the bike singing in the upper registers without the electronic muzzle the stock CDI clamps on. I love the way the bike will continue to rev till I'm ready to shift. I'm careful not to over rev it, but it's nice having a small margin to play with when flirting with the redline. Mahalo, braddah! |
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May 19th, 2010, 03:51 PM | #137 |
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Kelly, you're more than welcome! We're in an exclusive club "New Gens with 20 Year Old CDIs"! I have actually never felt the limiter on mine, since I retrofitted prior to ever going over 13-14K RPMs.
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May 19th, 2010, 05:22 PM | #138 |
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May 19th, 2010, 06:36 PM | #139 |
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Thats not a typo . The pattern for 95-07 is different than the pattern for 88-94 . The 95-07 has a 14500 rpm limiter.With the same timing . the Colors of the wires are the same they just go into different locations in the plug.
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May 20th, 2010, 05:42 AM | #140 |
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Eric, thanks for the clarification. I apologize for any confusion that I may have caused!
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May 29th, 2010, 01:23 PM | #141 |
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Name: shpongle
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cdi #s
sorry to bring an old thread up, didn't want to start a new one.
I bought a cdi from ebay that supposedly came off a 1994 ex250. I should've asked for the numbers or at least gotten suspicious that it could be a different cdi. It looked fine in the pic, but when i took off the rubber sheath off of it, i saw the casing was cracked. It was cracked specifically as you can see at the opening, obviously to switch it out(the circuit board), why else? someone just opens it up to look at it and put it back? Anyways, the casing reads 21119-1233. The the cdi board itself has four prongs from each side, totalling 8 and the left one being wider as if to house 6 prongs - just like the 88-94 cdi you guys posted pics of. Here's a picture of the whole thing: Do you think this will be ok to use and what model years suppose it is from? I was thinking about just simply connecting the appropriate wires to the metal prongs w/ holes in them and making it nice and water proof. So i don't need a harness. Are ALL the prev gen ex250s have the same aggresive map on them as the 88-94 gen? |
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May 29th, 2010, 03:52 PM | #142 |
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See post #17 in this thread. You have the CA version, which does NOT have the same timing as the non-CA (1229) version. If you want to still use it, I would recommend putting the housing back on and sealing it with rubber epoxy. Buy a used '88-94 wiring harness and cut the two connectors with 7-8" leads left on them. Use the Scotch Lock connectors (shown in this thread) to connect to your OEM harness. If the 1233 CDI works then you're done; otherwise, disconnect the connectors and hook up the original and look for a 1229 version.
Good Luck |
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June 7th, 2010, 06:47 AM | #143 |
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Any of you guys interested in making some plug and play harnesses for this swap?
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June 8th, 2010, 03:48 AM | #144 | |
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Quote:
Besides, you stated here that you going to try something else first: |
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June 8th, 2010, 05:09 AM | #145 | |
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Quote:
I'm not ready for that though. I would be interested to know if one of you guys would consider a plug-n-play harness though for my own knowledge. What I want to do first is fill the troubled bike back up with fuel which is the only varible that is not identical when I had the problem. I'll do this first before moving to any others step. Next will be the least expensive option for me and prolly the best for the group and that is to make the CDI swap from one bike to the other.
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June 8th, 2010, 12:17 PM | #146 | |
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Quote:
I've been having some strangeness with my RPM bouncing around +/- about 500, but not exactly the way as described with the CDI issue. My bike has cut out on me a couple times when it shouldn't have, so I'm considering the CDI swap as a project, an improvement and a diagnostic. I'd be quite willing to see if I can set up a plug & play wiring harness, but it'll likely take a month or two as I'll need to get all the parts together and review this thread/other materials.
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June 8th, 2010, 12:35 PM | #147 | |
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Quote:
http://www.ninjette.org/forums/showthread.php?t=43990
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October 26th, 2010, 10:31 PM | #148 |
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What is the difference between the CA version and non.... other than part number?
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October 27th, 2010, 08:34 AM | #149 |
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the lower RPMs on the CA model have less aggressive timing, not as advanced. 5 degrees instead of 10.
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October 27th, 2010, 04:21 PM | #150 |
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October 27th, 2010, 08:42 PM | #151 |
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That looks pretty significant. Are these the ONLY years the CA version is timed differently? Are new-gen CA CDIs the same as non-CA CDIs?
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October 28th, 2010, 04:03 AM | #152 |
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CA versions are always timed differently, as are the new-gen CDIs. The '88 CDI removes the rev limit (previously mentioned).
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September 13th, 2012, 08:24 PM | #153 |
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September 14th, 2012, 04:28 AM | #154 |
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^^ The cost of the CDI is biggest variable, along with the wiring harness, which will need to be modified. I found mine on eBay as did kkim and it is probably mentioned in this thread somewhere. Just a SWAG would be a total of $50-65.
Good Luck! |
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September 16th, 2012, 01:14 PM | #155 |
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I was going to replace my '08 CA version CDI with the older non-CA version mod. However, after reading all the related threads, researching all the connectors, etc., decided to pickup a used BRT TIS. In the end I think I payed roughly the same, and am happy I went this route.
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September 16th, 2012, 05:20 PM | #156 |
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What is the brt tis? How much does it cost and do i want one?
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September 16th, 2012, 05:39 PM | #157 |
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It is a cdi that is fully programmable or they have one with a pre written map. The programmable unit has two maps and adjustable rev limit. Check out Sportisimoto USA . Some one was selling one here last week.
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October 5th, 2012, 08:47 PM | #158 | |
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Quote:
Thanks in advance....no pun intended...hehe.
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October 9th, 2012, 06:24 AM | #159 |
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When I did this mod, my OEM CDI was overheating (much contention about this) and not functioning correctly; therefore, I wasn't thinking about static timing. I wanted a responsive engine with reliable tachometer readings. The timing advance and no rev limiter were just icing on the cake. My goal was achieved.
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July 21st, 2013, 05:53 PM | #160 |
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will this also work on a 2011? I've had the tach fluctuation problem too. So far I've replaced my stator and the voltage regulator.
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