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Old December 4th, 2022, 06:09 AM   #1
Bob KellyIII
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Pulling the carbs and doing a valve check.

Hi all.
I am in the middle of pulling the carbs on my 2012 Ninja 250R
and I've seen 2 or 3 videos on checking the valves on youtube.
one method took off the radiator to get it out of the way
and the other just drained the system and pulled the inlet pipe on top of the head ...just to get the valve cover off....
but the latter one was a 2008 model and they were adjustable valves , Mine are valve shims ( I have a set of valve shims and a Mic and a caliper)
so I am wondering sense the bike only has 5600 miles on it and it has had an easy life so far... and i probably won't have to remove the cams to change the shims....
would it be easier just to drain the coolant and remove the inlet tube so I can get the valve cover off and out to check the valves , or would it be easier in the long run to just pull the radiator and get all that stuff out of the way so I can work on it ?
I'm leaning toward just pulling the inlet tube and fighting getting in there with the feeler gauge from the top instead of from the front. can that even be done on this model ?
also getting the carbs off is giving me pause... one look at all of those vacuum lines that I cannot see where they go is giveing me chills
...I thought about taking a picture or 3 of how the lines are currently routed
but if I can't see where they go, the camara can't either !

what do you guys suggest ?
pull the radiator
or
pull the intake pipe on the top of the head and go in with the feeler gauges from the top.....

either way it's not an easy task for this old man, but having to take the radiator off seems like a waste of time to me ! but it would not surprise me that that is the best way to accomplish the task !
....
thanks for your input !

Bob.....
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Old December 4th, 2022, 07:42 AM   #2
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I just came in from taking 4 pictures of the carbs and vacuum lines...
....
Bob......
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Old December 4th, 2022, 08:41 AM   #3
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Draining the cooling system is so quick I would just do it. Getting the radiator out of the way involves, what, two 10mm bolts? Just do it, it's quick. I also removed that inlet on the top and replaced the oring. It was old and cracked/leaky. You're right anyway, I doubt you'll have to pull cams to adjust. Mine needed some tweaking, but... an easy life this engine has not had.

As far as the carbs go, just get in there and own it. It's a carb'd bike and you know carbs like to be understood Time to get in there and learn the vacuum mess.
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Old December 4th, 2022, 10:03 AM   #4
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LOL Yah Ok!!!
as my Dad used to say "Dive in there...it'll all come out in the wash"
one way or another anyway !
I've almost got the carbs out now anyway.... once I do that I'll start pulling the valve cover off I noticed that the rubber on the top of the valve cover bolts
is cracked on several of them so maybe I should order those rubbers too.
I think they are a cone shaped rubber so it may not be critical if they are slightly dried and cracked on the outside edges ! none are leaking but if you pull them out they might so it might be better to replace them....
..... and I discovered the front fork on the left side is leaking ! ACK !!!!
that's not good at all !
although I rode many thousand miles on bikes with leaking fork seals it's not something I want to do on the Ninja ! she's a good bike and I want to keep her that way !
....
And the coolant is probably the original coolant from when the bike was sold
so changing it wouldn't be a bad idea anyway.....
....
so I am heading out to the shop to get those carbs off of there....
Later !
Bob....
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Old December 5th, 2022, 06:00 PM   #5
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Hay Drew what is the secret of getting that water pipe out ? there is a rubber doohicky that the valve cover covers but it doesn't want to come out with a tug by the needle nose
and I don't want to just rip it out not knowing what it does does it cover a screw holding down the water pipe ?
..... I got the cover loose but can't get it out because of that pipe ....
....
I drained the coolant but left the radiator on as it didn't look like it would be in my way
so I left it.... it may be when trying to get the feeler gauges in there LOL
....
Bob......
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Old December 6th, 2022, 06:50 AM   #6
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Humm... I've come to the conclusion that you do need to pull the Radiator
and here is the reason for that.... you cannot get the valve cover off
with the right front frame bracket on there and to get that off you need to pull the radiator off.....
and that way you do not have to remove the top water pipe inlet.
so a slight change of stragities is called for....I'll pull the radiator and the right front frame piece and see what that get's me ! that should get the valve cover off and out so I can check the valve gap....

.....
Bob.
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Old December 6th, 2022, 12:05 PM   #7
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ok all that just to get the valve cover off ! FINALLY....
I did go ahead and remove the radiator and right front frame member and then struggled with the water pipe hose at the back of the head.... i finally just put a screw driver in the pipe and twisted it enough to turn the open end back towards the carburetors and the
valve cover came right off.....
and now the 1 T mark isn't marked..... I turned the crank till I was sure N01 was on compression stroke and nearing the top only to find a faint single line to indicate TDC
I did notice that 2 T mark was there when turning it but 1 T isn't marked clearly
both cam lobes are pointed away from each other so it is on TDC.... I THINK
why it's not marked like it should be is anyone's guess as it's not scratched up or anything so I find that very ODD ! ... I haven't checked the clearance because I couldn't remember the specks so I had to come look....
it's like 1 T was lazer etched and 2 T was stamped like it should be.... WEIRD !!!!!
never seen anything like that before ! totally bazar !
i put my magnifying glasses on and could finally make out a faint line but that is all ....
and it looks like it is in the right place so I'll check it there....
2 T shouldn't be a problem at all, it's easy to see ....
....
Bob.......
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Old December 6th, 2022, 02:41 PM   #8
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Well Phooie ! I am glad I checked now, but they are way off.....
just on No#1 alone the intake is .006 and .007 which is ok, they should both be at .006 though....
but the Exhaust is at .004 for both and that is way too tight. they should be at .008 ~.010
if memory serves.....
so now I get to hassel trying to find the right shim and pull the cams out
.... Aurgh !
...
in my younger years I would consistently add about .002 to the stock settings but those were air cooled engines with adjustable rockers...
with this beast I think I will shoot for the wide end on both intake and exhaust as this
thing does run very warm but I don't think I'll add the 2 thow I used too LOL
....
from what I have been able to decipher on the net these 250's have a tendency to shrink their gap rather than widen it.... which, if that is true... erring to the wide side would give better results in the long run.... for longer duration between valve checking

I remember a long time ago Several guys here mentioned I may have tight valves as it was being so cold blooded .... turns out you guys were right on ! KUDO's !
.... at least on one cylinder anyway, I haven't checked the other one yet.
....
....this is NOT what I expected at all ..... i thought I'ed find them all within specks
....
bummer deal dude !
...
Bob......
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Old December 9th, 2022, 05:41 PM   #9
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Well, here's the valve clearance as it stands right now without changing anything...just checking them.... intake is within tolerance I think on both cylinders .004 on the left and it's partner is at .007 ( that's No#1.) No#2 is .006 for both intakes on the right side.
the exhaust however is also at .006 for the exhaust for both on the right side
but the left side they are at .004 and.005 for the exhaust on No#1
so the exhaust on both cylinders is tight and needs to be adjusted as far as I can tell.
i used the feeler gauges as a go-no go gauge to arrive at the stated clearances
I went up in thickness till the feeler gauge would not go through anymore and I also went down in thickness just to check myself and came up with the same both times
so I am confident on the thicknesses I have written down in the shop....
....I also pulled the spark plugs to make sure the piston was up and the timing mark was right on it and the cam lobes were pointed outward from one another. so I am confident on the TDC reading...
so I guess the next thing is to pull the cams out so I can get to the shims
....
I think I will do all the valves sense the intake is on the tight end of the tolerance
and I think I will shoot for the widest end of the specks for both intake and exhaust
... if I have to buy more shims so be it... but this will assure me that I will not burn up a valve in the future..... I don't ride it hard so I am not worried about slightly less performance due to the extra slack in the valve train (if there is such a thing)
but intake from .004~.006 isn't bad
but the exhaust at .004 ~.006 is too tight for my blood especially when it calls for .008~.010 .....
but I was happy to find no valve was being held open so that is something ! so I'm thinking the valves are fine
I can see carbon on the pistons through the spark plug holes though and both spark plugs are brown maybe too brown.... which is a bit concerning maybe I should change main jets so a smaller size.... it is a water cooled machine and not air cooled so it doesn't need to be running so rich.... tan would be great but brown is a bit rich I think.
.....
sure is cold out there in the shop ... I need a better heater in there ! LOL
.....
Bob........
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Old December 9th, 2022, 06:15 PM   #10
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your carbs have non- factory sized jets? What mods have been done to them?
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Old December 9th, 2022, 06:40 PM   #11
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I don't know if they do or not... I have them in front of me right now I was thinking of removing the float bowls and have a look-see and see what the sizes of the jets Are .... just so I know...
..... I do know who ever was in here did not do a good job on the valves !!!!
so if they played with the carbs it's a good chance they are screwed up as well
....
Just popped the bowls off and neither jet has a mark on it so I have no idea what they are so it's a real good guess that they are not stock as the stock ones should be marked....
so I would guess go back to stock sizes or one step richer you know.... like .5 max
there is a aftermarket muffler on it but no other engine mods that I know of.
....if I remember right when I had them apart before the fuel air screws were different from each other and one was real hard to screw in.....and adjust for highest idle but I did finally get it to run good...
but Now I am fixing it and I want to do it right, as I do not want to hassel these carbs ever again ! HAHAHAHAHHA!


Bob...
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Old December 9th, 2022, 07:27 PM   #12
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No markings on jets indicates a jet kit was installed. In your case, sensing its running rich...which size mains would you then choose?

Thus my choice to use (marked) Keihin jets only, never opting for UNMARKED, far east jet "kits" EVER.

Complicating your issue, internal measurement of your main jet followed by Keihin replacement is now called for, if not imperative.

For now...concentrate on the valves, one hurdle at a time. When ready, I'm at your call.
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Old December 10th, 2022, 10:16 AM   #13
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Yah one project at a time ....I get derailed easy ! HAHAHHA
I would say Yes replace all the jets with stock jets..... if the jets currently in the carbs seem to be way bigger than stock then probably half a size down from them.... what ever that is.... use your own judgement your the carb expert not me ! .... I think going back to stock would be prudent although half size richer wouldn't hurt at all I don't think, I think all bikes are made to run stock Way too lean so richer than stock is probably better, but not by much !......what do you think ?
....
I THINK it is a stock engine with a aftermarket exhaust pipe so no real changes
it's got the stock header pipes on it....( catalytic converter)
.....
I still have the carbs on my desk and I am having to build a appropriate box to ship them in with decent padding ! LOL I am leaving them the way they came out of the bike...dirt and all ! LOL
...
oh... what would it cost to replace these things for ? $250.00 or $500.00
I have no idea...as I want to insure them incase they get lost !

.....
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Old December 10th, 2022, 11:12 AM   #14
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according to ronayers.com, factory replacements list at $1178....wtf?

I'd suggest using a genuine USPS Flat Rate Priority box in medium size (thicker of the 2 medium sizes they offer)....they are provided at no charge by the postal service. Double plastic bag the carbset....then fully wrap in newspaper. Using their box then assures Flat Rate pricing, $16 with 3 day service, tracking # provided. Quite fair. They've never lost a set on me yet, coming or going back. IF they somehow got lost, I've got replacement carbs I'd sell you for $200.

Leaving them "as is" upon removal is fine, dirt and all.
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Old December 10th, 2022, 02:13 PM   #15
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This 250s are not lean from the factory. There is no reason for you to have richer jets than stock.
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Old December 10th, 2022, 02:35 PM   #16
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Frankly, I'd be curious to examine present tuning set up, ascertain (via measurement) jet sizes, presence of needle shims, etc. prior to returning them to factory spec. I'd suspect a far east jet kit currently resides in them, based on Bob's finding no jet sizes stamped in the mains. Gotta see 'em, closely examine all components to be sure.
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Old December 10th, 2022, 02:46 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ducatiman View Post
Frankly, I'd be curious to examine present tuning set up, ascertain (via measurement) jet sizes, presence of needle shims, etc. prior to returning them to factory spec. I'd suspect a far east jet kit currently resides in them, based on Bob's finding no jet sizes stamped in the mains. Gotta see 'em, closely examine 'em to be sure.
Yes, that sounds good. I saw that his jets were unmarked and figured he'd need to buy genuine jets. My suggestion is to buy jets of exactly the same sizes as the stock ones.

The triples board is full of posts from guys who installed carb rebuild kits and wonder why their bikes don't run well. For some reason these kits are assembled for sale with absolutely no effort put into choosing jets that will actually work properly. I assume the same is true for no-name Ninja 250 kits.
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Old December 10th, 2022, 03:05 PM   #18
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Ebay is actually filled with no name "jet kits" advertised to fit both EX250 and EX500 carb sets. As each takes completely different jetting specs, an instant mistake on the buyers end.
Replacement diaphragms another issue as well....62mm diameter openly being advertised to fit EX500, which are actually sized for the EX250. Mistakes waiting to happen.
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Old December 10th, 2022, 03:29 PM   #19
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Ebay is actually filled with no name "jet kits" advertised to fit both EX250 and EX500 carb sets. As each takes completely different jetting specs, an instant mistake on the buyers end.
Replacement diaphragms another issue as well....62mm diameter openly being advertised to fit EX500, which are actually sized for the EX250. Mistakes waiting to happen.
I guess it's not unique to any particular vehicle. Many sellers don't know or don't care.
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Old December 10th, 2022, 03:34 PM   #20
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I guess it's not unique to any particular vehicle. Many sellers don't know or don't care.
Amen, bro', so true.
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Old December 10th, 2022, 06:52 PM   #21
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LOL thanks for the input guys... then STOCK IT IS ! that should make it easy for ya Gorden ! but sure take a gander at the setup to be sure ! they are exactly as I took them out... bagged in 2 plastic bags tripple walled cardboard in the sides and ends with make shift cardboard spacers... put in a cut down box that didn't fold right but it'll get it there
i am sure.... but I forgot to add the letter inside to say what I wanted.... so mak'em stock my good man ! I trust your work and your expertise ...make'm work right !
.....(I'll cut open the bottom and put in the info... ya can't send them back if ya don't have my address LOL)
what'a dummie I am sometimes!
I'll address it and get it coming as soon as I can, but it is liable to be a few days knowing me !
......No great big rush ...take your time as I have the bike all apart anyway doing the stinking valves! and it's snowing !

Bob.....
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Old December 10th, 2022, 07:47 PM   #22
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hoping the needles (special, Left N9VU & Right N9VW differ) were not changed and remain. Lets see what you've got in there.

Kaw provides 98 mains as stock, but lists down to 92 and up to 102 with all those between as usable options. Again, lets see whats in there to begin with.

I'll contact you immediately upon receipt.

Strongly suggest using the USPS box I referred to in previous post, though.
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Old December 10th, 2022, 08:14 PM   #23
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I may have to use their box as this looks pirty shabby LOL if they will take it though it will be on it's way...
hard to say about the needles ....let me know if there is any additional expense.
I did put an envelop under the carbs so you shouldn't have any trouble finding it
if it has to go in a USPS box I will just stuff this one in it and mail it !
....we'll see if I can find my way to the post office some time soon ! HAHAHAH!
.... Jim says stock jets are fine and I trust him too ! so 98's sound good !
Bob....
Gorden you'll see that I do not trust shipping companies to be gentle.... I could drive my 4x4 quad over this box and not hurt those carbs !!!! I'll probably have to pay $30.00 to ship it but i'll get there unscathed ....I hope !
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Old December 10th, 2022, 08:50 PM   #24
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I think alot of the kits are made by guys in their basement they just assemble pieces
and buy the cheapest things they can get .... and never even touched a bike.... they are just going by what the manual says ....
they have a credit line with Banggood and can order anything they sell in quantity...
so they try desperately to sell as many as they can .... and some give out misleading or downright Wrong information.... their RE-Sellers and to me that is just plane a dirty way to make your money... but it is very fashionable now days from torlet brushes to hardware bolts..... you have no idea what the quality is anymore.... for the longest time I wondered how these kids straight out of high school could all be driving extremally expensive cars..... and the answer is Re-Sale.... their all doing it and never worked at a real job in their life !
I suppose if I would have done that I would have been called an enantiopure... or innovative.... but I didn't and I'm poor as a church mouse !.... that sort of thing can make a person very bitter ! and the fact that todays kids fresh out of high school are smarter than I am financially at the age of 70.... it's down right disheartening !
HAHAHAH
Bob......
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Old December 11th, 2022, 05:57 AM   #25
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I suppose if I would have done that I would have been called an enantiopure...
I think you're an enantiopure anyway, Bob.
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Old December 11th, 2022, 11:46 AM   #26
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Um OOPS !

entrepreneur..... not that other word..... i don't even know what the spell checker helped me with LOL .... HEHEHE I may be Jim but what the heck is that ?
I had to get my wife's help to spell entrepreneur.... nothing I typed in matched ! HAHAHA
does it show I got a D in English ?
French words are weird !
....
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Old December 11th, 2022, 12:19 PM   #27
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I may be Jim but what the heck is that ?
It's a substance that contains only one of a pair of optically active isomers that are mirror images of each other. Dextrose (d-glucose) is an example.
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Old December 11th, 2022, 12:51 PM   #28
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LOL OOooook !
How's the Kawasaki Tripple 750 running ? have you ran it lately ?
....
we just had a blizzard here .... but it didn't drop much snow at all.... I think it blew it all to the mountain...... but that wind was really strong !
.....we just have a trace of snow on the ground now.... so that is good
....
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Old December 11th, 2022, 01:16 PM   #29
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The H2 is fine, thanks. I took it out for a ride not long ago. My Yamaha MT-07 is getting more ride time these days but it's not quite as exciting, so when I'm in the mood for adrenaline...
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Old December 11th, 2022, 03:26 PM   #30
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LOL Yah I bet ! that was the biggest street bike that I knew of in the late 1970's that would wheelie at the twist of the throttle ! and that was stock ! I can't imagen what your bike is like.... scary comes to mind ! HAHAHAHA !
although the RD 350 would wheelie by throttle alone as well as the A7 Kawasaki 350 rotary disk valve would as well but you had to time it just right with those 2 the H2 would do it anytime anywhere ! I was working as a gas station in Redding as a 16 year old kid and it was about 11:00 pm at night when a blue H2 came in and filled up
of course being into bikes I had to chat with him... he had put tuned pipes on it and changed the final gearing for cruising on the freeway...( he was on his way to Seattle) and when he left he hooked it up and gave me the thrill of a life time
that thing sounded like a Jet taking off and it was LOUD too.... that was one fantastic machine.... I told him watchout for deer in the canyon as he left and he nodded to me and then took off he was gone faster than I could even think about... I bet he hit over 100 in that stretch before the signal ! .... which was about 3/4 of a mile...
he only had like a small day pack strapped to the back ( I assume his rain gear)
.... but that put the bug in me to do a coast run.... which I did years later !
Going fast on a bike in wooded areas though has lost it's luster after driving through a heard of Deer at 70 mph.... i missed every one and one actually jumped over me....
but after that I have slowed down alot... hitting a deer on a bike would be a real REAL bad day but at speed it would probably be the last thing you ever do ! .... the medics would have to try and distinguish your pieces, from the deer's. UGH ! not my idea of a good time ! HA !
....
MT-07 isn't that a 1000cc with fuel injection ? those things are mean !
like an over grown Ninja 250R! a crotch rocket no doubt, but with enough HP to do anything !
....
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Old December 11th, 2022, 04:07 PM   #31
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bob KellyIII View Post
MT-07 isn't that a 1000cc with fuel injection ? those things are mean !
like an over grown Ninja 250R! a crotch rocket no doubt, but with enough HP to do anything !
It's injected, but the MT-07 is 700cc. The MT-09 is 900, and the MT-10 is 1,000. My MT-07 does 74 hp at the crank, so the same as my '72 H2 was stock, but it's around 40 lbs lighter at right around 400 lbs. wet. The torque curve is about flat from 2,000 to 9,000 rpm too.

MPG is regularly in the low 60s, so gas doesn't cost much for that one. Last spring I ran a tankful though it on the back roads of western NC, and the speed limit was 45 for most of that ride. It got 72 mpg for that tank!
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Old December 11th, 2022, 05:07 PM   #32
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Ahh ok ... thanks for that ! sounds like that MT-07 is a going son of a gun at 72hp !
that is alot of hp for 2 wheels ! I can't imagine what the 120hp bikes are like that is insane !
..... that big difference in the weight makes the H2 really spunky in comparison I bet !
plus the quickness of it being 2 cycle makes that 72hp so much more I am sure
....
it's Kind'a funny though all the HP bikes out there when you really only need 15~20hp to do freeway speeds all the time... but getting up to freeway speeds quickly takes the bigger HP..... my old 1963 honda 305cc only put out about 20hp if I remember correctly... but I could cruise at 70mph all day but it took 3 miles to get up to that speed ! HAHAHAHHA. as a comparison my RX4 is just 450cc but puts out 41 hp and will
be at 80mph in less than a mile easy.... but the Ninja even with it's steeper final gearing
will do that in about a half mile or less and it's only 250cc
but if you look close at the weight of the bikes you see why.... the ninja is much lighter than the RX4 by a long shot... at 450lbs DRY it's a pig ! even the Triumph 750 is about 30 lbs. lighter ! and I think it puts out something like 56 hp...
but if I want a thrilling ride I hop on the Ninja ...it's just alot funner to ride than the rest
small and compact but heavy for it's size it can and will get up and go !
....
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Old December 11th, 2022, 05:17 PM   #33
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The MT-07 is about 40 lbs. lighter than the H2. Mods to the H2 make it quite a bit faster though.

(that was 1972 H2, not 72 hp)
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Old December 11th, 2022, 06:20 PM   #34
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Oh....WOW ! MT-07 is lighter than the H2 !?!?! that is very supprising ! I would have bet my bottom dollar that the reverse is true !
if memory serves ( which is probably doesn't) the H2 in stock form was close to 400lbs.
and you've done extensive modification to it so I would guess you lightened it by at least 30lbs with the tuned pipes alone....
and if you took off the automatic oiler and run pre mix you took off another 10~20 pounds.... and their steel seat too was quite heavy ....
that's weird....
.... I know the aftermarket tuned pipes were supposed to add 12 hp they probably didn't add quite that much but it would have been close and they really woke up the bike. ...
so 74hp for the MT-07 and 80 to 85hp for the H2 at least that is what I am thinking...
but 40lbs lighter for the MT-07 should almost make it the equivalent i would think
I guess the 2 stroke engine of the H2 makes a Huge difference .... they are unmatched in acceleration , they will pull so hard they will pull the handlebars from your grip !
is the MT-07 that fast ? Must be Kind'a close ! sheez........
Man if I ever win the lotto I would buy a big place with a huge metal building and fill it with every bike on the planet ! HAHAHAHA big and small !
....
I'd be dangerous if I had money.... but I wouldn't have it for long... HA !
.....
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Old December 11th, 2022, 06:34 PM   #35
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The manual says an H2 is 422 lbs, but that's dry. Even with chambers they're in the mid 400s in running condition. I've done extensive porting to my H2, based on the port timing of the H2R, and added reeds to the intake, and big carbs. I've reshaped the combustion chambers for better squish. Of course I made a set of reproduction Denco expansion chambers for it. I haven't had it on a Dyno, but I'm sure it's doing quite a bit more than 85 HP.

The oiling system on triples is very well designed and very reliable. There is no benefit to removing it. It runs around 100:1 at light throttle, and gets way up at WOT. It pumps oil not only to the incoming mixture, but also to the main crank bearings. The only significant weight it adds is a quart and a half of oil if oil tank is full. The pump is tiny, and the lines and tank are light plastic.
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Old December 11th, 2022, 07:57 PM   #36
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Ahh ok yah you'ed be foolish to remove the pump if it feeds the crank as well.... I didn't know that. sounds like you really have it running as good as it can get ! the reed valves should have made a big difference as well as the porting !
when I was working from home doing port jobs on 2 strokes I never found a single one that wouldn't benifit from a port job as they have it where the cylinder skirt almost always cut off the scavange port and just opening that up a little always made a big difference... that and matching the exhaust port with the pipe...they were never correct!
but I would imagen on the H2 they wern't too far off but the DT1 yamaha and suzuki 250 of the day were flat horrable Bultaco 250 was supprizingly close though but none matched the crank case with the cylinders I always found plenty to do there !
a favorite of mine was to lighten the piston on a DT1 250 as much as possible but still not endanger it's integetory and slant the inside of the piston skirt too because of it's part of the airflow... taking away all the sharp edges really made a big difference
..... sounds like your probably pumping out 90hp or real close to 100hp with that monster ! i bet it is a KICK to ride ! HAHAHAH
....
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Old December 13th, 2022, 05:42 PM   #37
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Hay Gordon... I've been thinking ... ( i know that sounds dangerous !)
but sense Kawasaki calls for 92 ~102 or something like that
I think I'ed feel better if they were on the Ritcher end of that spectrum
it gets very hot around here...especially on the freeway and 120 deg. is not uncommon at all .... I have personally seen 130 degrees on the freeway!
but I don't live in that end of the valley anymore so it's not quite that bad
but still 120 deg is quite common here...
you know those jets better than I do so use your own judgment ...I trust you!
.....
Well, I finally got the cam's out and one lifter and am into trying to figure out
the proper thickness.... the shim is 2.83mm thick and I want to increase the
gap by .006 in. so I have to subtract what ever .006in. is in MM and subtract that away from the 2.83mm shim that was in there and that SHOULD put me right where I want it.... luckily my feeler gauge has both MM and inch on it so I can convert fairly easy, but I THINK in inches not millimeters !lol
anyway I think that is right.... I'm doing one shim at a time and then will start buttoning it back up....
....
it's funny I resisted EVER getting a bike with shims before because you have to remove the cams on almost all of them to do a shim change
... infact that was one of the big selling points to me about the RX4.... it has NORMAL tappets ! HAHAHAHA
....
anyway...I'm making progress !.... I think !
HA !
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Old December 17th, 2022, 03:11 PM   #38
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Ok I was all set to do the valves today.... only to find that the shims won't fit in the valve top...... the bike calls for 7.49 and every shim in the shim kit is 9.49 in diameter !
even though the box says 7.49 the dirty S.O.B's mislabeled the box !
and sense I bought them over a year ago it makes it real hard to get my money back !
....
so I am stuck with the delima of buying another from Hot cams and risk getting another box of the wrong size or buy from another company.....
does anyone have a recommendation of where I can buy a shim kit that are the correct size ? Thank you !
Bob........
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Old December 17th, 2022, 04:28 PM   #39
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Well, I got another valve shim kit from AHL this time same thing 7.48mm diameter
so when it get's here in january I can finally get the valves done....
I simply did a google search on valve shim Kit's for motorcycles and had a dozen or more to choose from Hot cam was the most prevalent in the list but I opted for the AHL brand
sense Hotcam screwed me over with this last kit Grrrrrrr !
....
anyway.... this has been a long tear down, and it is still going on ! won't be done till the end of January I am sure ! LOL
But my carbs should be back in a few days, so I can get them on....
maybe I should refresh the brake fluid at this time eh ? I want to put in Dot 5 brake fluid so I don't have to keep replacing the brake fluid every other year.
the Triumph has Dot 5 in the rear and dot 3 in the front... haven't got around to doing the front on it yet ! LOL
that's my 2 older bikes but the newer ones have dot 3 in them but they have alot of time before I have to worry about them.
....
so it's more Hurry up and wait ! HAHAHAHA
can't win for the loosing some times !
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Old December 17th, 2022, 04:41 PM   #40
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I did finally figure out the shims I needed though so I did learn a lesson....
I had to reason it out in metric ! :
what I did is take the shim size that was in it ( measured with the calipers)
and add to that measurment the feeler gauge reading which gives me the total height to the cam from the valve..... then I take the wanted valve clearance from that amount and that gives me the shim size .....
as an example my shim size that was in it was 2.82 and the feeler gauge reading was .010 adding that together gives me 2.92 I then subtract the wanted feeler gauge reading of .23 and get 2.69 and the closest shim to that is 2.70.... and that is the shim I would select for that valve.
... each valve veries a small amount in their feeler gague clearance so each one must be done seperately.
anyway I did all that and then tried to put the shim in and it wouldn't fit in the bucket.... it's like WTF ? grabbed the old shim and measured the diameter and it was 7.49.... grabbed the new shim and it was 9.49 ! it's like AURGH !!!! that was a game stopper !
...so now I wait for shims !
.....
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