Engine Oil

Mrudloff · March 20th, 2015, 11:57 AM

Coming up on my first oil change. What is the best engine oil to use? And where do you purchase it? Please and thank you.

fishdip · March 20th, 2015, 12:14 PM

https://www.ninjette.org/forums/sear...archid=1945580

csmith12 · March 20th, 2015, 12:15 PM

@fishdip, you know that link doesn't work right?

fishdip · March 20th, 2015, 12:18 PM

WTF all I did was copy the link for the search (oil)....

alex.s · March 20th, 2015, 12:18 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mrudloff

Coming up on my first oil change. What is the best engine oil to use? And where do you purchase it? Please and thank you.

rotella t6. it's a jaso-ma2 spec oil that has a much higher last-layer lube content than most others. 'round here people love it. i used to use v300 but now i just use t6.

fishdip · March 20th, 2015, 12:25 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by alex.s

rotella t6. it's a jaso-ma2 spec oil that has a much higher last-layer lube content than most others. 'round here people love it. i used to use v300 but now i just use t6.

yep diesel oil works well.

Ghostt · March 20th, 2015, 01:35 PM

Shell Rotella T6 synthetic, As long as it's not the first time

cadd · March 20th, 2015, 01:56 PM

Any oil that's motorcycle specific. Anywhere that sells motorcycle specific oil (Walmart, Autozone, Pepboys, etc). You're welcome.

PS - what filter will you be using?

alex.s · March 20th, 2015, 02:07 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by cadd

Any oil that's motorcycle specific. Anywhere that sells motorcycle specific oil (Walmart, Autozone, Pepboys, etc). You're welcome.

PS - what filter will you be using?

you would think this is true but its actually not. there are lots of oils that are branded as moto oils but don't meet jaso-ma2 or other moto standards and can actually cause harm to the clutch.

get one that is jaso-ma2 compliant.

Ghostt · March 20th, 2015, 05:07 PM

no bias

any 10w-40 to 20w50 rated JASO-MA/MA2 oil will do just fine.

you loose oil through the normal combustive process. as oil atomizes in the crank case, it is pulled through the intake via the crank case breather vent and burned with the gasoline.

cadd · March 20th, 2015, 06:12 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by alex.s

you would think this is true but its actually not. there are lots of oils that are branded as moto oils but don't meet jaso-ma2 or other moto standards and can actually cause harm to the clutch.

get one that is jaso-ma2 compliant.

Never knew that!!!! I always assumed that any oil that's labeled for motorcycle use is always going to be compatible with a wet clutch!

I'm really curious now.....have you guys ever seen a motorcycle oil that is not compatible with wet clutches? I personally never bothered to check. I've always used Rotella T6 or Mobil1 motorcycle oil.

MrAtom · March 20th, 2015, 07:20 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by alex.s

rotella t6. it's a jaso-ma2 spec oil that has a much higher last-layer lube content than most others. 'round here people love it. i used to use v300 but now i just use t6.

Didn't you recommend against using that stuff before and to just use what the owners manual says?

alex.s · March 20th, 2015, 08:16 PM

probably

alex.s · March 20th, 2015, 08:17 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Ghostt

no bias

any 10w-40 to 20w50 rated JASO-MA/MA2 oil will do just fine.

you loose oil through the normal combustive process. as oil atomizes in the crank case, it is pulled through the intake via the crank case breather vent and burned with the gasoline.

buying expensive oil is like sacrificing money to the moto gods. it doesn't actually do anything. BUT IT DOES.

BoBO · March 20th, 2015, 11:44 PM

Rotella t6 is cheap and it's legit. However, there are many good oil brands out there like Motul 5100,7100, or their 300v for track. There's also Mobil 1, Repsol, and Amsoil. It's whatever you like.

liberpolly · March 21st, 2015, 01:04 AM

When in doubt, ask MOM.

Singh2jz · March 21st, 2015, 01:52 AM

I also use Rotella t6..

adouglas · March 21st, 2015, 05:02 AM

jkv45 · March 21st, 2015, 05:17 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by adouglas

Notice what grade "Energy Conserving" is in? 30 (and below).

It's not an issue if you are using any 40-grade oil (like the majority of cycles). Just one more example of "Internet myths" that won't die...

Just use Shell Rotella T6 5W-40 synthetic and call it a day. It is more than adequate for normal cycle use.

Mrudloff · March 21st, 2015, 06:55 AM

Thanks so much people!

accumack · March 21st, 2015, 09:08 AM

I used to use Mobil1 4t motorcycle oil at $11 a quart from Walmart now I use Shell Rotella T6 a gallon for about $22 from Walmart. I feel it shifts smoother than the Mobil1. Rotella T6 is used in tractors. They have wet clutches and are worked harder than our engines so I have no problems using it.

alex.s · March 21st, 2015, 09:09 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by BoBO

Rotella t6 is cheap and it's legit. However, there are many good oil brands out there like Motul 5100,7100, or their 300v for track. There's also Mobil 1, Repsol, and Amsoil. It's whatever you like.

i've blown a motor and a trans on track with 5100 and 300v. but i've not yet blown one on t6... :P :P

cadd · March 21st, 2015, 12:53 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by accumack

I used to use Mobil1 4t motorcycle oil at $11 a quart from Walmart now I use Shell Rotella T6 a gallon for about $22 from Walmart. I feel it shifts smoother than the Mobil1. Rotella T6 is used in tractors. They have wet clutches and are worked harder than our engines so I have no problems using it.

Same here! Not one single issue with the T6. And I get my oil analyzed by Blackstone Labs. After 5,000 miles (2 years) in the same bike, the oil is still pretty much brand new according to the lab report.

jkv45 · March 21st, 2015, 02:01 PM

T6 is decent, but it will shear down. It's on the light side for a 40 to start with, and shears to a high 30 - which isn't really a problem. I have noticed a change in shifting after about 1000 mi in one of my cycles with T6.

Because it's not very expensive, I would suggest changing it just as you would a conventional oil.

Most of the time the issue is contamination of the oil from acids and moisture and depletion of the additive package (from starts and short trips). In that case, synthetic and conventional both react the same. The actual oil itself doesn't really wear out, it's the additive package that does.

I don't believe in extended change intervals just because you are using synthetic. I feel oil change intervals should be based more on number of cold starts and time spent at operating temp. If you start and run for a hour before shutting off and cooling down you will be able to run your oil safely many times longer that if you do numerous 10 minute trips (and many more cold starts) that add up to the same mileage.

Alex · March 23rd, 2015, 08:59 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by fishdip

WTF all I did was copy the link for the search (oil)....

After you hit search, the URL of the search results is a unique ID for your particular search. It is temporary, and only for that particular query. You can't copy the links like that.

March 20th, 2015, 11:57 AM	#1
Mrudloff ninjette.org newbie Name: Matt Location: Casselberry, FL Join Date: Aug 2014 Motorcycle(s): 2007 Kawasaki Ninja EX250-F Posts: 6	Engine Oil Coming up on my first oil change. What is the best engine oil to use? And where do you purchase it? Please and thank you.

March 20th, 2015, 12:14 PM	#2
fishdip ninjette.org certified postwhore Name: Fish Location: co Join Date: Apr 2013 Motorcycle(s): 250/300 Posts: A lot.	https://www.ninjette.org/forums/sear...archid=1945580 __________________________________________________ Hey Unregistered never go faster than your brakes can be applied...

March 20th, 2015, 12:15 PM	#3
csmith12 The Corner Whisperer Name: Chris (aka Reactor) Location: Northern KY Join Date: May 2011 Motorcycle(s): 2010 250 (track), 1992 250, 2006 R6 (street/track), 2008 R6 (track) Posts: Too much. MOTY 2015, MOTM - Nov '12, Nov '13	@fishdip, you know that link doesn't work right? __________________________________________________ Goal: Shake A Million Hands \| Look through the corners \| Track Day Prep \| Closest track? \| The Mid-Ohio School

March 20th, 2015, 12:18 PM	#4
fishdip ninjette.org certified postwhore Name: Fish Location: co Join Date: Apr 2013 Motorcycle(s): 250/300 Posts: A lot.	WTF all I did was copy the link for the search (oil).... __________________________________________________ Hey Unregistered never go faster than your brakes can be applied...

March 20th, 2015, 01:35 PM	#7
Ghostt in your machine Name: Scott Location: Summer Shade, Ky. Join Date: Oct 2014 Motorcycle(s): 98 Ninja 250/F12 aka ZX-2R "SERENITY", 91 Ninja 500/A5 aka ZX-5R "Phoenix", 84 Honda GL1200A "SIREN" Posts: A lot. Blog Entries: 25 MOTM - Jun '17, May '16, Mar '15	Shell Rotella T6 synthetic, As long as it's not the first time __________________________________________________ *violente et ignorantia* ZX-2R BLOG *Twitter and Instagram = Ghostt_Scott* *I'm not here to change your mind, just to inform.*

March 20th, 2015, 01:56 PM	#8
cadd cadd cadd cadd Name: Cadd Location: 41°21'13.1"N, 74°41'37.4"W Join Date: Jan 2014 Motorcycle(s): 300 Posts: A lot. MOTM - May '15	Any oil that's motorcycle specific. Anywhere that sells motorcycle specific oil (Walmart, Autozone, Pepboys, etc). You're welcome. PS - what filter will you be using?

March 20th, 2015, 05:07 PM	#10
Ghostt in your machine Name: Scott Location: Summer Shade, Ky. Join Date: Oct 2014 Motorcycle(s): 98 Ninja 250/F12 aka ZX-2R "SERENITY", 91 Ninja 500/A5 aka ZX-5R "Phoenix", 84 Honda GL1200A "SIREN" Posts: A lot. Blog Entries: 25 MOTM - Jun '17, May '16, Mar '15	no bias any 10w-40 to 20w50 rated JASO-MA/MA2 oil will do just fine. you loose oil through the normal combustive process. as oil atomizes in the crank case, it is pulled through the intake via the crank case breather vent and burned with the gasoline. __________________________________________________ *violente et ignorantia* ZX-2R BLOG *Twitter and Instagram = Ghostt_Scott* *I'm not here to change your mind, just to inform.*

March 20th, 2015, 08:16 PM	#13
alex.s wat Name: wat Location: tustin/long beach Join Date: Sep 2009 Motorcycle(s): wat Posts: Too much. Blog Entries: 5 MOTM - Oct '12, Feb '14	probably __________________________________________________

March 20th, 2015, 11:44 PM	#15
BoBO ninjette.org guru Name: Genesis Location: Paradise Valley Village, AZ Join Date: Jan 2014 Motorcycle(s): SC28 Fireblade Posts: 463	Rotella t6 is cheap and it's legit. However, there are many good oil brands out there like Motul 5100,7100, or their 300v for track. There's also Mobil 1, Repsol, and Amsoil. It's whatever you like. __________________________________________________ 94 900RR 04 BMW Z4 2.5 M Package 01 R170 AMG Sport Package

March 21st, 2015, 01:04 AM	#16
liberpolly ninjette.org guru Name: Poul Location: Seattle Join Date: Jan 2015 Motorcycle(s): 1999 Triumph Legend "Arwen", 2006 Ninja 650 "Matsuo Hotaru". 2010 Ninja 250 "Firefly" - sold. Posts: 338	When in doubt, ask MOM. __________________________________________________ Screw the inscrutable, eff the ineffable.

March 21st, 2015, 01:52 AM	#17
Singh2jz ninjette.org certified postwhore Name: Inderveer Location: San Jose Join Date: Nov 2012 Motorcycle(s): '07 ex250-F/J Posts: A lot.	I also use Rotella t6.. __________________________________________________ The Bike \| The Truck

March 21st, 2015, 05:02 AM	#18
adouglas Cat herder Name: Gort Location: A secret lair which, being secret, has an undisclosed location Join Date: May 2009 Motorcycle(s): Aprilia RS660 Posts: A lot. Blog Entries: 6 MOTM - Jul '18, Nov '16, Aug '14, May '13	__________________________________________________ I am NOT an adrenaline junkie, I'm a skill junkie. - csmith12 Nam et ipsa scientia potestas est. Heri historia. Cras mysterium. Hodie donum est. Carpe diem.

March 21st, 2015, 06:55 AM	#20
Mrudloff ninjette.org newbie Name: Matt Location: Casselberry, FL Join Date: Aug 2014 Motorcycle(s): 2007 Kawasaki Ninja EX250-F Posts: 6	Thanks so much people!

March 21st, 2015, 09:08 AM	#21
accumack ninjette.org member Name: jim Location: texas currently in Temecula Valley CA Join Date: May 2013 Motorcycle(s): honda crf230l & 2013 ninja 300se wife has Honda crf230l & honda cbr250r repsol Posts: 222	I used to use Mobil1 4t motorcycle oil at $11 a quart from Walmart now I use Shell Rotella T6 a gallon for about $22 from Walmart. I feel it shifts smoother than the Mobil1. Rotella T6 is used in tractors. They have wet clutches and are worked harder than our engines so I have no problems using it.

March 21st, 2015, 02:01 PM	#24
jkv45 Rev Limiter Name: Jay Location: WI Join Date: Jul 2013 Motorcycle(s): '06 SV650n, '00 Derbi GPR, '64 CA77 Dream 305, '70 CL450 Scrambler, numerous dirt bikes Posts: A lot. MOTM - Jun '18, Oct '16	T6 is decent, but it will shear down. It's on the light side for a 40 to start with, and shears to a high 30 - which isn't really a problem. I have noticed a change in shifting after about 1000 mi in one of my cycles with T6. Because it's not very expensive, I would suggest changing it just as you would a conventional oil. Most of the time the issue is contamination of the oil from acids and moisture and depletion of the additive package (from starts and short trips). In that case, synthetic and conventional both react the same. The actual oil itself doesn't really wear out, it's the additive package that does. I don't believe in extended change intervals just because you are using synthetic. I feel oil change intervals should be based more on number of cold starts and time spent at operating temp. If you start and run for a hour before shutting off and cooling down you will be able to run your oil safely many times longer that if you do numerous 10 minute trips (and many more cold starts) that add up to the same mileage.

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