My 2006 Kawasaki Ninja EX250F.

[N-m]

Originally Posted by crazymadbastard

You may want to try a higher viscosity oil and upgrade the front fork springs to match your weight.

I had already decided to look into this. Thanks.

[crazymadbastard]

Originally Posted by N-m

Cost of the shock? More than $100 and I buy a seat pad at Wally World. Seriously.

Shock is around $30 at ebay.

[N-m]

Originally Posted by crazymadbastard

Shock is around $30 at ebay.

Ah! That's good to know. I may look into that later.

[N-m]

http://faq.ninja250.org/wiki/How_do_...carburetors%3F

I did use the above method. I had the tank off for access so I used a turkey blaster to keep the carbs full of fuel. I wound up turning up my idle to just over 1500 rpm. The engine seems to like that better.

Notes on the sync:

1. The next time I do this I will mount the tank above the frame and lump the tank to the carbs. This will be rather easy to do with hose barb nipples and allow me to take my own sweet time to get things just right.
2. Have plenty of fuel and take your own sweet time. If you think this will be a short and cute process for your first time think again.
3. Learn how your engine is supposed to sound while idling, make tiny adjustments, and then let it run a minute or two. Keep the fuel coming.
4. I found that 1/32nd or 1/64th adjustments worked well for me and this bike. Seriously.

[N-m]

I have ordered a Motion Pro chain tool set, an RK O-ring or X-Ring chain and new steel JT sprockets in the factory spec'ed 14/45 combo. I decided too many variables are already changing to switch the numbers up or down. I am dying to see how well it runs after all this stuff is operating as it should be.

[N-m]

http://faq.ninja250.org/wiki/Changin...rands_to_avoid

I have changed out the NGK plugs for the same. Both plugs looked good with no fouling. Neither plug was seized.

I currently own 4 engines that take some type of NGK plug. At subaruoutback.org we have discussed the torque and no grease vs. no torque and grease method at length. I have ran these plugs for quite a few miles and can only recommend one follow the NGK approved method. Ideally this is a cold engine, clean the area as best you can so there is no soot or dirt, use their crush washer, use no grease or anti seize and use a torque wrench. I have zero issues with this method.

I think people are throwing plugs in a hot engine, over torquing and then leaving the things alone for a long time. I can see this resulting in a plug that does not want to turn loose. Take the time to do it right and you have not only installed the plugs properly, you have eliminated a few possible causes of a bike not running in tip top shape.

Of course, you are more than welcome to set fire to your own bike if you so desire. It makes no difference to me.

[InvisiBill]

A NewGen shock has a spring more suited to your weight, and should be a direct bolt-in. It will raise the rear a tad, which will make the steering a bit quicker. Most people prefer it (it makes it feel a bit sportier), but just be aware when you get back on that it will handle a little differently. I'm sure the GSXR shock is better, but it also requires more work to install. I've had a Penske to install on my 500 for over a year, but I've been happy enough with the NewGen shock that I haven't done it yet.

You need ~76% stiffer fork springs. Probably .75kg/mm, maybe .70kg/mm, should be good for you. It sounds backwards, but the firmer springs will do a much better job of controlling the wheels under the bike, resulting in a more comfortable ride.

Intiminators will help tame bumps too, but they're more expensive and more work to put in. Definitely do the springs first.

[N-m]

Traditionally this bike when cold begins getting hot on head number 1 first, and then head number 2. Initially I thought I was running on a single cylinder but that is not the case. i have what I feel is a very strong engine.

Exhaust numbers 1 & 2 both have similar levels of power or compression and after the bike warms up both heads and exhausts feel like they are the same temperature. The replaced plugs had equal appearances.

Yesterday I finished with the valve adjustment, carb sync, and spark plug replacement. There were numerous issues corrected with these procedures in valve clearances and there was no synchronization.

1. Is this indicative of a real issue or normal for a multicylinder bike.
2. If an issue will it be gone this morning?
3. If an issue is this being caused by something else?

[N-m]

Originally Posted by InvisiBill

A NewGen shock has a spring more suited to your weight, and should be a direct bolt-in. It will raise the rear a tad, which will make the steering a bit quicker. Most people prefer it (it makes it feel a bit sportier), but just be aware when you get back on that it will handle a little differently. I'm sure the GSXR shock is better, but it also requires more work to install. I've had a Penske to install on my 500 for over a year, but I've been happy enough with the NewGen shock that I haven't done it yet.

You need ~76% stiffer fork springs. Probably .75kg/mm, maybe .70kg/mm, should be good for you. It sounds backwards, but the firmer springs will do a much better job of controlling the wheels under the bike, resulting in a more comfortable ride.

Intiminators will help tame bumps too, but they're more expensive and more work to put in. Definitely do the springs first.

That's interesting info. I will start with the oil since it is the easiest thing to do. When possible I like to change only one parameter so I can determine cause and effect. At the moment I don't know if fluid is present, at what level or what weight.

I know fork oil weight options are 5, 10 and 15. What type, etc.? I have more reading to do about that yet.

[N-m]

Answers to all my questions. Especially note the below since I saw someone around here say they are riding on 5 weight. I had thought 5 weight was the factory spec but I will have to look at that again.

Anything less than 10 wt is too light for damper rod forks (the kind used in the Ninja 250). Cartridge forks use oil that is lighter than 10 wt.

http://faq.ninja250.org/wiki/How_do_...he_fork_oil%3F

04/14/15 - I found some 15 weight oil and will change that and the level to begin with. Pulled forks from bike and have them completely apart. Fairly easy job, just time consuming. Oil in each leg was drastically different in viscosity, color and volume. Imagine that. Replacements for all the consumables are being ordered.

[InvisiBill]

Originally Posted by N-m

When possible I like to change only one parameter so I can determine cause and effect.

That's a good mindset to have. It's frequently a pain when people change 10 things at once, then can't figure out why the finished product isn't working right.

Originally Posted by N-m

At the moment I don't know if fluid is present, at what level or what weight.

Fork oil should be done at intervals as a maintenance item. If you don't have any idea as to its quantity or condition, that bumps up the priority on it.

Originally Posted by N-m

I know fork oil weight options are 5, 10 and 15. What type, etc.? I have more reading to do about that yet.

Be aware that fork oil weights aren't standardized either. One brand's 5 might be the same as another brand's 10.

Originally Posted by N-m

I will start with the oil since it is the easiest thing to do.

Especially if your forks are stock and need to be removed to drain the old oil, a spring change is much easier to do. You basically just remove the bar riser, pop the fork cap off, pull out the old spring, and drop in the new one. They do cost more than a bottle of oil though.

If you can afford them, just get the new springs. If you up the fork oil to add a bunch of damping to compensate for weak springs, you'll have to undo that and re-determine proper settings once you get the right springs anyway.

I installed ~55% stiffer fork springs, which were still a bit low for my weight, without changing the oil or anything else in my suspension. It was the single best change I've made to the bike. Seriously, these little Ninjas have insanely undersprung forks, especially for us big guys.

[N-m]

Wow. Jump into your bike and make these adjustments. It definitely runs better. There is a smoother/easier start up although I do have to use about 50% choke where I was using about 25% before. Once warmed up the rpm gauge will still bounce around periodically but the range of motion is much less.

Vibrations - talk about a subjective topic. In the lower gears I was running a much higher RPM than usual, even using more of the higher range of first gear. Could it be described as a broader range of power in each gear?

Decrease in RPM - I have similar power at a slightly lower RPM. When I hit the four lane with a limit of 65 I was using fifth at only 8,000.

Throttle performance - By far the largest improvement. Changes to the throttle resulted in a faster response on the part of the engine both up and down.

Shifting - am I just getting better at shifting or were up shifts smoother and a downshift into first at a higher RPM not as jolting?

Tank is nearly empty so that is next. Then the entire front end comes off. There are some loud squeaks up there. Probably about that same time the chain and sprockets will have to go. I think the chain has had it. It now stays bent when you pinch the links.

[N-m]

I don't care what you know or how much money you have, do something with your bike mechanically. If you don't have the times or tools find the time and someone that would be willing to help with your endeavor.

This will help you become more intimate with your machine and it definitely makes a difference in the confidence you have as you ride. I absolutely love tearing it all apart, getting it back together w/o any bolts left over and then hitting that starter, only to have her fire right up once gas is back in the carbs.

If you are around here let me know if you need help. I will make the time.

[N-m]

Originally Posted by InvisiBill

That's a good mindset to have. It's frequently a pain when people change 10 things at once, then can't figure out why the finished product isn't working right.




Fork oil should be done at intervals as a maintenance item. If you don't have any idea as to its quantity or condition, that bumps up the priority on it.




Be aware that fork oil weights aren't standardized either. One brand's 5 might be the same as another brand's 10.




Especially if your forks are stock and need to be removed to drain the old oil, a spring change is much easier to do. You basically just remove the bar riser, pop the fork cap off, pull out the old spring, and drop in the new one. They do cost more than a bottle of oil though.

If you can afford them, just get the new springs. If you up the fork oil to add a bunch of damping to compensate for weak springs, you'll have to undo that and re-determine proper settings once you get the right springs anyway.

I installed ~55% stiffer fork springs, which were still a bit low for my weight, without changing the oil or anything else in my suspension. It was the single best change I've made to the bike. Seriously, these little Ninjas have insanely undersprung forks, especially for us big guys.

I hear ha on the forks. I will be checking into that as well. No luck on finding fork oil at the local parts stores. I hate to stop at the local Moto dealer. Their prices are full retail.