Royal Purple Oil In Your Machine?

[SchaffDogg]

I believe Royal Purple is some of the best oil you can buy. If i am wrong please alert me. That being said, i am wondering about using in on my 09 ninjette. question one, is it the best? question two, will it cause my clutch to slip? or any other down or upsides... thank you!

[csmith12]

There should be no issue as long as the oil you use has a JASO rating.

Oil threads are always fun.

[Yakaru]

Momaru and I both use Royal Purple in our Ninjettes, it does well.

[SLOWn60]

Originally Posted by Yakaru

Momaru and I both use Royal Purple in our Ninjettes, it does well.

HA! Fess up: The only reason you use Royal Purple is because it's "Purple"!

[InvisiBill]

Royal Purple Max-Cycle 10W-40 Virgin Oil Analysis

It has a relatively high amount of molybdenum in it. A lot of people think that's what causes supposedly clutch slippage, but RP's marketing info says theirs is oil-soluble and it does meet JASO requirements.

Compared to Rotella T6, it has a lot of similar numbers, a few higher and a few lower. The viscosity numbers are lower pretty much across the board. I'm having a hard time finding closely-comparable UOAs for the two, but the numbers seem pretty similar in the ones I'm seeing.

Royal Purple (and other similar oils) may be better, but I don't think it's 4x as good, which is the cost difference. I believe that all oil shears down pretty fast in a shared-sump engine, so I tend to change my oil more frequently. Therefore I'm ok with the T6, which is known to shear a bit more due to being 5W but is also really cheap.

[MrAtom]

Originally Posted by InvisiBill

Royal Purple (and other similar oils) may be better, but I don't think it's 4x as good, which is the cost difference. I believe that all oil shears down pretty fast in a shared-sump engine, so I tend to change my oil more frequently. Therefore I'm ok with the T6, which is known to shear a bit more due to being 5W but is also really cheap.

Shear?

[Brother Michigan]

Originally Posted by MrAtom

Shear?

A reduction in the viscosity of the oil attributed to the shearing motions of things like clutch plates.

[SchaffDogg]

Thanks for all the info guys I really appreciate it! I'll try the rp in my next change and see if there's a difference.

[Yakaru]

Originally Posted by SLOWn60

HA! Fess up: The only reason you use Royal Purple is because it's "Purple"!

>.> <.<

[choneofakind]

It also smells wonderful! And I think the most current JASO rating is JASO-II, no?

anyhow. Use what you want, change it regularly. Keep it clean. Happy happy.

I run the purple because we used it where I worked and I had good testing on it. YMMV

[Tim Fox]

Anyone running Mobil 1? I have used it in all my vehicles and like using it for the extreme temps I have lived in. -40 in NC and now 120 in AZ.

[Tim Fox]

Woops I meant ND

[InvisiBill]

Originally Posted by Tim Fox

Anyone running Mobil 1? I have used it in all my vehicles and like using it for the extreme temps I have lived in. -40 in ND and now 120 in AZ.

Do you ride in -40° weather? If you're not using the engine, the temperature is pretty irrelevant. If you do ride in cold weather, the 5W of T6 will lubricate better than the 10W or 15W of most 40 weight bike oils. In extremely hot climes, you may want to go up to a 50 weight.

Generally, Mobil 1 is good stuff though. It's said to have a lot of moly and other friction reducers, so make sure you're getting the JASO MA bike formulas. Once again, my only reason for not using it in the bike is that it's several times the cost of T6.

Semi-related, here's a pour test of a few 5W-30 oils at -40°.

Link to original page on YouTube.


Also, Royal Purple has Duralec (VOA) commercial oil (similar to Rotella) for $30/gal at Walmart. However, it doesn't have the JASO rating, so you're taking chances if you use it in a bike. I'm curious how well it would hold up though.

[choneofakind]

Originally Posted by InvisiBill

However, it doesn't have the JASO rating, so you're taking chances if you use it in a bike.

Wrong product

http://www.royalpurpleconsumer.com/p...le-engine-oil/

Max-Cycle meets or exceeds API requirements and is rated JASO MA2, the highest wet clutch compatibility rating under the JASO T903:2011 Clutch Friction Test.

EDIT: just understood you were referring to their budget option. My bad

[verboten1]

Too much money.
Full synthetic bike oil, whatever is on sale. Have valvoline now I think $26 for 6 quarts, I didn't even have to pick it up.

[Ghostt]

I changed from SHELL ROTELLA T6 SYNTHETIC, to MOBILE 1 15-50W at the start of this season, so far, so good, no ill effects. Cost is not that much more than SHELL, about $24 @ Wal-Mart, and it's 5qts Vs 4qts SHELL, enough for two oil changes plus some extra for top offs.

The reason for the change was for a thicker oil, 50W Vs 40W. I've used SHELL for many, many years, and have had no issues with it, I just wanted a thicker oil for the summer's higher temperatures.

I've looked into other oils, but the benefits don't outweigh the costs of them, so I've stuck with SHELL, it's a compromise.

Are there better oils out there, yes, are they worth their extra cost? For me they are not, you might find the cost acceptable for you. Either way no matter what you decide remember to change the oil at regular intervals, as this is the key.

[verboten1]

KLR gets rotella T to burn, leak and lubricate, not necessarily in that order. It's worked for 10 years so far.

[juliusmichaelhonrada]

can i use 70 weighted oil , the name is Gulf and i think its from saudi arabia which is pretty hot i live in the philippines around 40 celsius all day

[Brother Michigan]

Originally Posted by Ghostt

I changed from SHELL ROTELLA T6 SYNTHETIC, to MOBILE 1 15-50W at the start of this season, so far, so good, no ill effects. Cost is not that much more than SHELL, about $24 @ Wal-Mart, and it's 5qts Vs 4qts SHELL, enough for two oil changes plus some extra for top offs.

The reason for the change was for a thicker oil, 50W Vs 40W. I've used SHELL for many, many years, and have had no issues with it, I just wanted a thicker oil for the summer's higher temperatures.

I've looked into other oils, but the benefits don't outweigh the costs of them, so I've stuck with SHELL, it's a compromise.

Are there better oils out there, yes, are they worth their extra cost? For me they are not, you might find the cost acceptable for you. Either way no matter what you decide remember to change the oil at regular intervals, as this is the key.

Honestly, unless your cooling system is malfunctioning you shouldn't need to put in a higher weight for higher temperatures; The engine (and therefore the oil) should be running at the same temperature regardless of the ambient temperature.

[jkv45]

Originally Posted by Brother Michigan

Honestly, unless your cooling system is malfunctioning you shouldn't need to put in a higher weight for higher temperatures; The engine (and therefore the oil) should be running at the same temperature regardless of the ambient temperature.

I totally agree with this.

Heavier oil is almost never needed in hot temps if the engine is water-cooled. Unlike a conventional oil, synthetic oil is extremely difficult to breakdown with high temps. Heavier/thicker oil actually moves slower, which in turn moves heat away slower, so it really is counter-productive.

The reason that people like heavier oil in hot temps stems from the way conventional oils breakdown in an air-cooled engine when exposed to extreme heat. A conventional oil drops to its lower rating ("W" rating") when overheated. So when a 20W-50 conventional oil breaksdown (like in a Big Twin stuck in traffic) it's still a 20-grade, and still supplies some oil pressure.

With synthetic oil that's not a concern, even at extreme temps. Unless a water-cooled engine is not cooling properly it will never reach temps that are even close to what it would take to cause a drop in oil pressure from thinning oil.

[Ghostt]

Oil and engine/water temperature is not even, oil has to work harder, also with the mileage creeping up on SERENITY, I felt a slightly heavier oil might be nice.

Either way it's working fine, no ill effects so far, almost 6k so far.

SIDENOTE: I've also installed an oil cooler awhile back.

[choneofakind]

Originally Posted by Ghostt

Oil and engine/water temperature is not even, oil has to work harder, also with the mileage creeping up on SERENITY, I felt a slightly heavier oil might be nice.

Either way it's working fine, no ill effects so far, almost 6k so far.

SIDENOTE: I've also installed an oil cooler awhile back.

A couple things, just my thoughts on the subject:

I don't think anyone said that the oil and water temps were equal. They're not going to be equal. The comparison was made between water cooling and air cooling. With a water cooled engine, the engine will be at a much more constant temp over time and a more consistent temp physically throughout than with an air cooled engine, where the rate of cooling is directly related to vehicle speed and all cooling is from the external surfaces only.

A heavier oil will do a better job protecting parts from a higher film strength, but it also flows slower, as stated in earlier post. Unless you're consistently getting low pressure warnings, I personally wouldn't worry about going heavier. Are you hurting anything? No, you're only using 50. It's not like you stuck in 90 or something. You keep doing you

I think this was mentioned when you bought your oil cooler, but more coolerer is not always more betterer. Yes, reducing oil temps has a very significant impact on oil life. This is important in industrial equipment where oil changes are made only when the oil is no longer working and the goal is to spend as little money annually as possible. However, in a vehicle with scheduled oil change intervals based upon miles, not oil properties, I feel it's important to keep the oil in the temp range where it's expected to be and the system was designed around. Coolers are great when they're needed, but without an oil temp gauge and trending to show a) a need and b) a change after install, adding an oil cooler is just adding things for the sake of adding things. If it was a track-only bike or if were bored out to more than 248cc's, I'd look into a temp gauge and then, if needed, a cooler. For a street bike, I think a proper thermostat and cooling system, like a thermobob, is much more impactful for getting to proper operating temp and staying there.

I totally get it though. I like tinkering and adding things to the bike. Oil coolers look neat and I've thought about it, with the same intentions as you. Not bashing here, just my thoughts.

[nickjpass]

Originally Posted by csmith12

There should be no issue as long as the oil you use has a JASO rating.

Oil threads are always fun.

Let's talk about rotella

[Ghostt]

I agree, I just wanted to try out the Mobile 1 and see if there was any difference, positive or negative.

I misread the part about air vs water cooled.

I considered the effects of over cooling the oil, so I got a very small one, which gave me a slight reduction in oil temperatures, I do however disconnect it for the winter months.

[alex.s]

i usually only use canola oil

[tubarney]

higher weight oil is better at higher temperatures. Engineers wouldn't make it if it didn't.

[jkv45]

Originally Posted by tubarney

higher weight oil is better at higher temperatures. Engineers wouldn't make it if it didn't.

Boy - life is simple!

That may have been true in the Old Days, but with the invention of synthetics it is no longer.

[jkv45]

Originally Posted by Ghostt

Oil and engine/water temperature is not even, oil has to work harder, also with the mileage creeping up on SERENITY, I felt a slightly heavier oil might be nice.

Either way it's working fine, no ill effects so far, almost 6k so far.

SIDENOTE: I've also installed an oil cooler awhile back.

It would be nice to know your actual oil temp. Oil likes to be hot, and a synthetic can take extreme temps without any negative effects.

The quicker you can get the oil to full temp (212F) and the longer you stay there the better it is for your engine. Hot is good.

[Brother Michigan]

Originally Posted by tubarney

higher weight oil is better at higher temperatures. Engineers wouldn't make it if it didn't.

Engineers make higher weight oils because there are applications that demand them. Oils will thin down at higher temperatures, but each application will specify different weights that will be the appropriate viscosity for the expected temperatures and tolerances.