Full ninja 250 Paint/ powder coat/ ceramic coat

[Qomomoko]

What started out as just a rear shock upgrade has turned into a little more..
bike is fully apart to get most of it powder coated, ceramic coated, painted.

The plan has changed a million times.

Current plan is

Most stuff: frame, rear swing arm, rims, calipers and most small miscellaneous parts powder coated red.

Tank and exhaust white, the tank powder coated or painted white while the exhaust ceramic coated white. Not sure how possible white exhaust is; if not possible then tank will be X and exhaust X too... I think,

the seat I might try to upholster it my self red or red and white.

some small stuff might powder coat black..

All the stuff...


3 to 4 things are left

1) Taking the pistons out of the calipers


2)the steering column that is held onto the bottom part of the triple tree has a rubber part that I can not take off, if so then I wont powder coat it but paint it..


3)Been reading and it looks like I made a mistake in not dismantling the forks when still on the tripple tree, but will so how to get around this



4) I have a little gas filter plastic thing stuck inside the tank that I have not been able to take out to avoid it melting when if I get tank powder coated. I am also looking to get a dent remover cuz my tank has some dents..


5) the master cylinder, is there a rubber part inside the piston or is it just a spring? if there is rubber I must take it off...

[Qomomoko]

UPdate.


the caliper, I tried a grease gun but the nipple was not working well and .. and well no success so I left the caliper at a machine shop to get the piston out, they 'll let me know Tuesday as they are closed thru Tuesday.

next, getting the bulls eye/oil sight glass of the master cylinder.. no success yet.. any advice?

here is one of my quick attempts

Link to original page on YouTube.

[Qomomoko]

16.35 mm diameter and 3 mm thickness glass

got them out, one broke, the other is ok but looks crappy..

[Alex]

[Qomomoko]

Before new paint on the forks and possibly springs....

what is this white residue from?
both forks looked good except for that clip under the dirt boot on right fork?
oil was clean too.

should I order a fork rebuild kit?

i can get better close ups, was about to order it but if it is good I can save $25 per fork.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...A363BFUBCLUQU5

[Qomomoko]

STuff looks good for reuse.. except the caliper which i ordered a rebuild kit for both front and back and SS pistons

for the master (front and rear) cylinders.... still debating..

there are two types of rebuild kits, one includes the piston which is about (K&L) $25

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B001KOHUDU/...I26XNXADB91P82

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B001KOG24I/...I2C0L782U6QQ3L

and the smaller kit (allballs)which is washer and boots and the 2 screws for about $15.


http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00D0AWXQG/...I13SDM6CMGMMD9

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00D0AWYMO/...I2S69V1WBLLK38




for the forks... also looks good i think, maybe alittle more cleaning and the seal spring is good as well though looks darker, the one that goes on the oil side.

[Qomomoko]

Also, is it better go to on the .05 kg/mm stiffer side when in between or maybe putting on some lbs?

Sonic springs also tells me to go for .95kg/mm springs me weighting 150 lbs plus 15 lbs of gear and My Ducati Monster S4 weighting 430 lbs... racetech for the 2001 Ducati M 900 says .88 kg/mm.... cant decide...

for my ninja 250 Sonic says .8 kg/mm for me at 150 lbs and 15 lbs gear and 340lbs but Racetech says .74 kg/mm

cant decide...

[Qomomoko]

While prepping my ninja 250 for powder coating I ran into a caliper piston that would not budge. Compressed air released the left piston on the video, the right was stuck. I tried the grease gun a week ago, bought at Harbor Freight, but nothing. Grease would not come through the nipple. I got a new nipple and grease gun end and it was was working...

I took video of the beginning but it got corrupted. Here is video of the last episode. Now time to clean the caliper, make sure it is in working condition and then powder coat it!!!!

For some reason the pistons did not POP in this method. During the compressed air, that thing popped big time .


also... have noticed that the Ninja 250 front and rear caliper actually have different design besides the location of the bleed valve, the internal port for the brake fluid is much larger in what I think is the rear.

The rubber rings, 1st one is for dirt and the thicker second ring is the piston seal; dirt one is toast.

Pistons are bad too, can see where the mechanics used pliers from the machine shop. :kurt:

I already ordered caliper kit for both...

Link to original page on YouTube.

[Motofool]

Originally Posted by Qomomoko

.............. Pistons are bad too, can see where the mechanics used pliers from the machine shop. :kurt:
....

Link to original page on YouTube.

[Ghostt]

Nice

[Qomomoko]

Parts are getting powder coated


somethings that are left

1 weld the 1 inch hole in one of the slipons
2 ceramic coat the slipons and mid pipe white
3 clean and paint engine mostly black and some red
4 order the springs from racetech
5 make two glass bullseyes for two front master cylinders
6 decide on rebuilt kit for rear and front master cylinder and order it
7 finish my custom bracket for my instrument cluster


and then put it all together including the carburetor !!!!

I will after the bike is running work on making my own cool fairings :headbang:
probably mostly white

this includes the tank.. the large dent budged a little but the right small one, no way jose, the small one did not budge at all. The other small one moved very little.

I would love to have her ready for HMS the 31 track day but will see.

[Qomomoko]

half the parts

[Qomomoko]

Ordering today.. any last minute advice...?

Originally Posted by Qomomoko

Also, is it better go to on the .05 kg/mm stiffer side when in between or maybe putting on some lbs?

Sonic springs also tells me to go for .95kg/mm springs me weighting 150 lbs plus 15 lbs of gear and My Ducati Monster S4 weighting 430 lbs... racetech for the 2001 Ducati M 900 says .88 kg/mm.... cant decide...

for my ninja 250 Sonic says .8 kg/mm for me at 150 lbs and 15 lbs gear and 340lbs but Racetech says .74 kg/mm

cant decide...

[jkv45]

Originally Posted by Qomomoko

half the parts

You may want to ask the coater to mask the mating surfaces for the rotors, bores for the bearings, threaded holes, etc, on the next batch.

It can be a challenge assembling things with powder on all surfaces.

Just a suggestion to save you some headaches.

[Qomomoko]

Originally Posted by jkv45

You may want to ask the coater to mask the mating surfaces for the rotors, bores for the bearings, threaded holes, etc, on the next batch.

It can be a challenge assembling things with powder on all surfaces.

Just a suggestion to save you some headaches.

I did.. I think is charging me little so I am not being toooo picky but try too.. I think I'll be using sand paper later lol

[jkv45]

Originally Posted by Qomomoko

I did.. he I think is charging me little so I am not being toooo picky but try too.. I think I'll be using sand paper later lol

Even though it was cheap, it is a ton of work for you to remove it and it creates the potential of damaging the surfaces.

Depending on the thickness of the powder, you may want to scrape the surface with a razorblade or scalpel before sanding. Use a small flat piece of thick metal as a sanding block to keep the areas flat when you start sanding. I'd probably start with 100 grit and move to 150/180 once you start to get close to bare metal.

Masking is the time-consuming, and costly, part of the process when dealing with complex surfaces that shouldn't be coated due to tolerances or alignment issues. It's much easier to coat something completely and let someone else worry about the details later...

[Qomomoko]

Originally Posted by jkv45

Even though it was cheap, it is a ton of work for you to remove it and it creates the potential of damaging the surfaces.

Depending on the thickness of the powder, you may want to scrape the surface with a razorblade or scalpel before sanding. Use a small flat piece of thick metal as a sanding block to keep the areas flat when you start sanding. I'd probably start with 100 grit and move to 150/180 once you start to get close to bare metal.

Masking is the time-consuming, and costly, part of the process when dealing with complex surfaces that shouldn't be coated due to tolerances or alignment issues. It's much easier to coat something completely and let someone else worry about the details later...

thanks for advice, I just texted him reminding too to do so...

[Qomomoko]

Link to original page on YouTube.


videos are not posting right

[jkv45]

Sorry - that's not encouraging...

I see a ton of threaded holes and areas that don't look like they were masked that should have been...

[Qomomoko]

Originally Posted by jkv45

Sorry - that's not encouraging...

I see a ton of threaded holes and areas that don't look like they were masked that should have been...

mostly concerned with the master cylinders and the calipers.. stuff was covered.....

threaded areas for screws were not... i'll be dealing with that next

[Qomomoko]

R2D2 in black N red

[Qomomoko]

To better organize my GPS and Iphone and camera..

First is the one that will replace the entire Instrument cluster on the ninja 250 and the second and third are add ons for the stock instrument cluster on the Monster S4; gonna go pretty much right over the key ligning up just below the instrument cluster, or that is the plan at least.

[Alex]

[Qomomoko]

I taped and filled the vitals parts to avoid getting paint where it should not be.

going slow.. but going.

[crazymadbastard]