To bleed or not to bleed...

anacron · September 16th, 2013, 07:55 PM

Getting ready to install my Vortex rear sets. I bought the replacement banjo bolt with the inline pressure sensor which means that I need to remove the stock banjo bolt from the master cylinder and splice stuff up.

Just wondering if I should play it safe and bleed the rear brakes since removing the banjo bolt will leak brake fluid.

k-os · September 17th, 2013, 05:26 AM

Yes, you should bleed the brakes.

anacron · September 17th, 2013, 03:59 PM

Should I drain all of the old fluid or just bleed and top off the reservior (have a mix of old and new fluid)? Does it actually matter?

tfkrocks · September 17th, 2013, 04:09 PM

I would just bleed until the brake feels firm again.

crazymadbastard · September 17th, 2013, 05:20 PM

Bleed it all out, nothing is better than all new fluid probably took longer to post and come back than to have flushed it all out.

Alkeplar · October 4th, 2013, 09:06 AM

^Agreed. If you're going to do anything, why do a half job.

Treat your bike right and she'll treat you right

JohnnyBravo · October 4th, 2013, 10:23 AM

Though you could get away with a lil old an little new, why half booty it? It will be more work to go all the way, and your fluid probly isn't that old, so you should be fine either way, but a full job is better than a quick fix if your not in a pickle... Your not in a pickle are ya?

anacron · October 6th, 2013, 04:43 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JohnnyBravo

Though you could get away with a lil old an little new, why half booty it? It will be more work to go all the way, and your fluid probly isn't that old, so you should be fine either way, but a full job is better than a quick fix if your not in a pickle... Your not in a pickle are ya?

Nope not in pickle. I did a full bleed on the rear. I'd like to do the front as well (just for practice), is there a bleed nipple near the brake lever? From what I've read you need to bleed at the master cylinder and the caliper -- the example was an R6 though...

tfkrocks · October 6th, 2013, 10:10 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by anacron

Nope not in pickle. I did a full bleed on the rear. I'd like to do the front as well (just for practice), is there a bleed nipple near the brake lever? From what I've read you need to bleed at the master cylinder and the caliper -- the example was an R6 though...

You bleed at the master cylinder by loosening the banjo bolt. Use towels around it since it's going to be a bit messy.

dooby · October 7th, 2013, 02:40 AM

We had a similar task this weekend on Akima's and my Ninjas for a group braided line fitting. We realised after fitting the lines that whilst the caliper was bled of air, there was still air trapped at the top of the line, in the union/banjo bolt area.

I didn't think of loosening the banjo bolt, so our solution was to briefly disconnect the lever and reservoir assembly from the bar, and pump the lever whilst trying to coax the air bubble up past the piston back into the (sealed) reservoir. This seemed to work for us.

I would have worried cracking the bolt loose in case the crush washers shifted but I guess we're talking *just* cracked enough to pass air/fluid then torqued back up again.

Interesting...

Cheers, Pete

September 16th, 2013, 07:55 PM	#1
anacron ninjette.org guru Name: Adi Location: SF Bay Area Join Date: Apr 2013 Motorcycle(s): Triumph Street Triple R Posts: 380	To bleed or not to bleed... Getting ready to install my Vortex rear sets. I bought the replacement banjo bolt with the inline pressure sensor which means that I need to remove the stock banjo bolt from the master cylinder and splice stuff up. Just wondering if I should play it safe and bleed the rear brakes since removing the banjo bolt will leak brake fluid.

September 17th, 2013, 05:20 PM	#5
crazymadbastard I'm crazy,your excuse is? Name: Winston Location: Connecticut Join Date: May 2013 Motorcycle(s): 250 2007 ninja Posts: A lot.	Bleed it all out, nothing is better than all new fluid probably took longer to post and come back than to have flushed it all out. __________________________________________________ My Cafe Racer Build My intro post

October 4th, 2013, 10:23 AM	#7
JohnnyBravo Certifiable nontundrum Name: Harper Location: NC Milkshake stand Join Date: Mar 2013 Motorcycle(s): 2013 SE NINJA 300 Posts: Too much. MOTM - Sep '13, Sep '16	Though you could get away with a lil old an little new, why half booty it? It will be more work to go all the way, and your fluid probly isn't that old, so you should be fine either way, but a full job is better than a quick fix if your not in a pickle... Your not in a pickle are ya? __________________________________________________

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September 17th, 2013, 05:26 AM	#2
k-os ninjette.org sage Name: Andy Location: Sheboygan, WI Join Date: Dec 2008 Motorcycle(s): 1988 Honda Hawk NT650, 1989 Honda Hawk NT650, 1997 GSXR750 Track Bike Posts: 890	Yes, you should bleed the brakes.

September 17th, 2013, 03:59 PM	#3
anacron ninjette.org guru Name: Adi Location: SF Bay Area Join Date: Apr 2013 Motorcycle(s): Triumph Street Triple R Posts: 380	Should I drain all of the old fluid or just bleed and top off the reservior (have a mix of old and new fluid)? Does it actually matter?

September 17th, 2013, 04:09 PM	#4
tfkrocks ninjette.org certified postwhore Name: Rebecca Location: SF Bay Area Join Date: Sep 2009 Motorcycle(s): 2013 Ninja 300 w/ ABS, 2014 NC700X, 2008 Ninja 250 (sold), 2002 Ninja 250 (sold) Posts: A lot. MOTM - Jan '18, Sep '13	I would just bleed until the brake feels firm again.

October 4th, 2013, 09:06 AM	#6
Alkeplar ninjette.org member Name: Aaron Location: Tucson, AZ Join Date: Aug 2013 Motorcycle(s): 2013 Ninja 300ex SE(non-ABS) Posts: 15	^Agreed. If you're going to do anything, why do a half job. Treat your bike right and she'll treat you right

October 7th, 2013, 02:40 AM	#10
dooby ninjette.org member Name: Pete Location: UK Join Date: Aug 2012 Motorcycle(s): '11 250R SE (FI), '14 Daytona 675, '14 Sprint 1050 GT SE Posts: 121	We had a similar task this weekend on Akima's and my Ninjas for a group braided line fitting. We realised after fitting the lines that whilst the caliper was bled of air, there was still air trapped at the top of the line, in the union/banjo bolt area. I didn't think of loosening the banjo bolt, so our solution was to briefly disconnect the lever and reservoir assembly from the bar, and pump the lever whilst trying to coax the air bubble up past the piston back into the (sealed) reservoir. This seemed to work for us. I would have worried cracking the bolt loose in case the crush washers shifted but I guess we're talking just cracked enough to pass air/fluid then torqued back up again. Interesting... Cheers, Pete