2006 EX250 barn find restoration thread

[inplabth]

I'm back again everyone! I posted a thread not long ago about a carb part that I lost, and I'm realizing that in the process of bringing this bike back from dust-covered and neglected to ridable again I may have more stuff that I need to ask, so I'm going to document stuff in this thread. It'll be completed maintenance, questions, etc all right here instead of spread all over the forum page.

Stuff I've done so far:
Changed coolant
Changed spark plugs
Changed oil
Checked some electrical systems (blinkers, headlights, etc)
New battery
Cleaned carbs (sort of)
Remove caps off of idle mixture screws and reclean carbs
Replace carb bowl gaskets
Fix lean mixture issue
Check for vacuum leaks

Stuff I know needs to be done:
Valve clearance check
Clean and lube chain
Replace front blinkers
Check if swing arm is bent or out of alignment (pics below)
Fix fuel petcock
Lube cables
New tires

I picked this bike up for an absolute steal from a coworker. I looked it over before buying but I somehow missed the rear swing arm. It's definitely been dropped, but everything looked good when I checked, just scuffs in places and the bracket that holds on the right exhaust was bent inwards. Looking at it over the weekend while going through the carbs though, the swing arm looks like it's cocked off to the right. Am I crazy or is it bent? If it was bent, how much of an issue is it?

[csmith12]

It's more likely to be the pillion plastics and such tweaked.

[subxero]

post up some more pics of the bike. I think the pre gen's make great project bikes if you can find them cheap. So much you can do on very little money.

Enjoy and remember to post lots of pictures

[choneofakind]

either that, or your rear wheel is way out of alignment? Idk, sub'd for a barn find project. those are the best.

[inplabth]

Got her running properly today after tearing the carbs off again and going through them. I suspect the problem was a sticky slide not opening up. You can see in the picture of the carbs that one of the needles is pulled out way further than it should be. Vacuum check came back good so that shouldn't be an issue. Next up is finding some turn signals and change the brake fluid.

I even made it down the street and back!

More stuff added to the to-do list:
Lube cables
New tires

[Ghostt]

Looks like one of the needles is installed incorrectly, a common problem is sometimes the install them after installing the seat spring part #16007, make sure this is not the case, also are the carburetors OEM, or has someone installed a jet kit, adjustable needles, etc...



I feel your pain,my Ninjette came from a bad home, here's a quick rundown of what I've done

Back in May 2014, I picked up a 98 with 27k miles on it for a great price. The P.O. did nothing except put gas in it, and changed the oil, I think, he did this for about 20k of the total miles.

Needless to say it needed a lot of TLC. I am no stranger to rebuilding bikes, I did my 91 EX500 which was a basket case for sure to say the least, here is the link to see that build:

https://picasaweb.google.com/1006527...JCB6ffS-973wgE

With that said I went through the bike, repairing, replacing, & modifying as I went, with the exception of the engine/transmission that seems solid no noises or smoke.

Here is a link to the evolution as told by pictures.
https://picasaweb.google.com/1006527...IDXyZXyoe2m0QE

Work performed :

Cut and set sag front fork springs(springs from a Ninja 500 1st generation, rate is .85kg/mm )

Replace fork oil 15wt synthetic

Install new fork seals and dust caps

Replace rear shock(zx600c)

Replace shock oil 15wt synthetic

Change gears +1/-2(15/43)

Rebuild/tune carbs, adjust idle mixture

K&N air filter

New brake pads F&R EBC extreme HH

New Wave front rotor

Used OEM rear rotor

Rebuilt calipers

Modified OEM seat(gel/foam insert, Custom Seat Creation cover solo line cf silver/cf metal, heated kit)

Extra heavy bar ends(3"/23oz)

Heated grips w/ foam covers

Touring windscreen / 7 JuRock 18" 73%tint w/ flip

Shorter bar risers(OEM ZX600c, lower bars about 1 1/2")

Removed paint from rims, bare aluminum

Bridgestone BT-45s w/ Dynabeads

Stainless steel allen head fasteners

Stainless steel braided brake lines

Shorty adjustable levers

HD clutch springs

Charge/voltage LED indicator

LED clock

HID headlight(55w 5k)

Replaced all other bulbs with CREE LEDs

DIY integrated tail light kit w/clear lens

DIY rear fender elimination

DIY licence plate mount(LEDs to illuminate the plate/red LEDs tied into brake light)

Brake light modulator

Maintenance free gel battery

Compact air horn

2007 Complete OEM fairing set silver

Genuine imitation carbon fiber wrap misc parts

Reflective custom graphics ZX-2R silver

Reflective custom graphic NINJA red(taillight lens)

Reflective rim tape silver

Electronic turn indicator relay

Replace front side reflectors with flush mount turn indicators LEDs

Installed rearview camera system

Installed oil cooler

Strip paint off grab handle, bare aluminum alloy.*

Custom reflective graphic "SERENITY" for windscreen silver

Aluminum chain guard from Suzuki Bandit 1200

Swing arm plugs from 08 Ninja 250

Mad Hornets Turn Signal Indicators w/duel color Cree LEDs(amber/white)

FH010 R/R modification

Digital gear indicator

Universal Rear View Side Mirror Rain Board Sun Visor Shade Shield

Kawasaki ZRX1200 lowered foot pegs

All this and full maintenance and rebuild everything else except the motor. I'm sure I'm forget some stuff, but you get the idea

[inplabth]

Yeah, the needle was gummed up and sticking. Once I cleaned it off if worked fine. Luckily everything on the bike is stock including the carbs. As it is right now after I add new front turn signals and get new tires it'll be drivable.

[inplabth]

A buddy of mine who's been riding for quite some time hopped on the bike today for a spin down the road and back and he liked it quite a bit. His feedback was that the tires were hard as rocks (not surprising) and that it "is probably still running pretty lean since it doesn't feel like it has the power to get on the highway". I haven't seen any symptoms of a lean mixture from it and the plugs are a nice brown color so I suspect that it's because the 250 has about 1/4 the horsepower he's used to.

[Ghostt]

Originally Posted by inplabth

A buddy of mine who's been riding for quite some time hopped on the bike today for a spin down the road and back and he liked it quite a bit. His feedback was that the tires were hard as rocks (not surprising) and that it "is probably still running pretty lean since it doesn't feel like it has the power to get on the highway". I haven't seen any symptoms of a lean mixture from it and the plugs are a nice brown color so I suspect that it's because the 250 has about 1/4 the horsepower he's used to.

Are you 1000%,sure that the carburetors are right? Cleaned? Adjusted?

If the bike sat for some time, those carburetors need more than a can carburetor cleaner, they should be refurbished, PM @ducatiman

[inplabth]

Originally Posted by Ghostt

Are you 1000%,sure that the carburetors are right? Cleaned? Adjusted?

If the bike sat for some time, those carburetors need more than a can carburetor cleaner, they should be refurbished, PM @ducatiman

The carbs actually looked pretty darn good when I was going through them. There was some corrosion on the brass jets buy that was about it, no sludge or anything. A jet kit might be in the works but for now everything seems alright.

[Ghostt]

Originally Posted by inplabth

The carbs actually looked pretty darn good when I was going through them. There was some corrosion on the brass jets buy that was about it, no sludge or anything. A jet kit might be in the works but for now everything seems alright.

If your keeping stock, a jet kit is not needed, only fine tuning of the idle mixture screws, and maybe a washer or two under the main jet needles is all that is really needed. If you need some information about how let me know. Also forget the pod filters, the OEM airbox is needed for proper operation of the carburetors.

The fuel circuits in the carburetor are very small to say the least. @ducatiman offers Full carburetor services at very affordable prices, including selling kits, and parts.

Here's his thread in the market place, https://www.ninjette.org/forums/showthread.php?t=226815

He's well known over on EX-500.com, and has been taking care of the carburetor needs over there for awhile. I also know him, and vouch for him. He's also done work for a few members here as well, @HerpDerp1919 for one. Here's his thread

https://www.ninjette.org/forums/showthread.php?t=233330


I would trust him with my own, and trust me that's saying a lot, coming from me.

[HerpDerp1919]

Don't mean to hop in where I'm not welcome, but I will vouche for @ducatiman as well. I sent him my carbs and that's the best money I've spent in years. My bike actually runs now and runs fantastic. His pricing really can't be beat unless you do it yourself and have hookup on parts.

[inplabth]

I'm looking for help anywhere I can get it so any advice is welcome! I just sent him a PM.

[Ghostt]

Originally Posted by inplabth

I'm looking for help anywhere I can get it so any advice is welcome! I just sent him a PM.

Good call.

And @HerpDerp1919 I bet your glad you listen to me in the end.

[ducatiman]

"I sent him my carbs and that's the best money I've spent in years. My bike actually runs now and runs fantastic."....quote herp

herp, I'm glad we had such striking results, both visually and performance-wise.

PM answered, ty all.

[inplabth]

Is there a specific kind of tubing that's used for the vac line between the fuel petcock and the carbs? Mine got a kink in it and I suspect it's collapsing when the bike is under load.

[Ghostt]

Originally Posted by inplabth

Is there a specific kind of tubing that's used for the vac line between the fuel petcock and the carbs? Mine got a kink in it and I suspect it's collapsing when the bike is under load.

Just regular vacuum line.

[ducatiman]

bring a sample to your local auto parts store

[choneofakind]

I used Tygon for all the fuel and vacuum lines. Good for gas, ethanol, alcohol, diesel, etc etc. Not too expensive. Bright yellow.

[inplabth]

Thanks for the help! Picked up the vacuum line and it seems to have fixed my small issue. Updates have slowed down a bit since I'm waiting for some parts to come in, namely blinkers, mirrors and tires.

[inplabth]

Everything seems to be running great now except for me. I headed out to a parking lot to practice a bit and ended up dumping the bike going about 5. Everything seems to be okay except for a few more scuffs on the side of the fairing and some paint taken off the right bar end and the brake lever.

EDIT:

I should add, I'm perfectly fine. My gloves, jacket and pants took the brunt of the fall. My pride is damaged worse than anything else for now.

[Ghostt]

Better at low speed and in a parking lot, than on the highway, hope your okay.

[Alpen10]

Hi, everyone, after a bitter NY winter, during which my bike sat on its stand covered, with a full tank of gas, I found it would not start when the spring came. The tank had developed rust, and the fuel poured out like chocolate milk! Fast forward, I cleaned the tank and even etched it using white vinegar, it came out looking new inside, I also pulled the petcock and cleaned it inside as well as replaced the filters. It started, but died instantly, so I went to the carbs.
When I took off the carbs and opened them up, they weren't too dirty but I did find dirt in the Jets and bowls. Then, it started, but would only run on the choke. So I went back to the carbs and this time I cleaned much deeper using a guitar string to clean out the little holes, finally, I pulled the top off and cleaned the slides and needles but I found a small tear on the edge of one of the diaphragms of the vacuum slide. After looking it up here, I repaired it with gorilla glue, and it worked! At least it started and stayed on without the choke. But now, it starts to drop Rpms slowly until it shuts off. I'm thinking the repair wasn't totally effective, and I'm not getting full vacuum, so I'm going to rebuild the carbs,pilot jets, main jets, mixer screws, and of course diaphragms. But I can't find any kits that are complete and when I look for the Diaphragms separately, the prices are insane! I can't find one for less than 120. I've checked a lot of sites that are recommended by other members but most don't have any complete kits and none have a less expensive diaphragm. My bike is a 250 2006. Can anyone point me in the right direction? Please, I'm running out of ideas. Btwy, I winterized it with Stabil which is normally great but this year was strange. Thanks all.

[Ghostt]

Originally Posted by Alpen10

Hi, everyone, after a bitter NY winter, during which my bike sat on its stand covered, with a full tank of gas, I found it would not start when the spring came. The tank had developed rust, and the fuel poured out like chocolate milk! Fast forward, I cleaned the tank and even etched it using white vinegar, it came out looking new inside, I also pulled the petcock and cleaned it inside as well as replaced the filters. It started, but died instantly, so I went to the carbs.
When I took off the carbs and opened them up, they weren't too dirty but I did find dirt in the Jets and bowls. Then, it started, but would only run on the choke. So I went back to the carbs and this time I cleaned much deeper using a guitar string to clean out the little holes, finally, I pulled the top off and cleaned the slides and needles but I found a small tear on the edge of one of the diaphragms of the vacuum slide. After looking it up here, I repaired it with gorilla glue, and it worked! At least it started and stayed on without the choke. But now, it starts to drop Rpms slowly until it shuts off. I'm thinking the repair wasn't totally effective, and I'm not getting full vacuum, so I'm going to rebuild the carbs,pilot jets, main jets, mixer screws, and of course diaphragms. But I can't find any kits that are complete and when I look for the Diaphragms separately, the prices are insane! I can't find one for less than 120. I've checked a lot of sites that are recommended by other members but most don't have any complete kits and none have a less expensive diaphragm. My bike is a 250 2006. Can anyone point me in the right direction? Please, I'm running out of ideas. Btwy, I winterized it with Stabil which is normally great but this year was strange. Thanks all.

PM @ducatiman he's a fellow Long Islander and very close by.

[Alpen10]

Thanks I'll check him out.

[Milsparro]

A perfect carburetor and out of adjustment valves will still start and run like bleaugh. Valves are free to do on these, I did mine in way less time than my bro took to change the sprocket and chain on his bike.

[ducatiman]

The flipside....the most precise valve adjustment coupled with frigged up carbs offers the same.

Goes without saying...many systems gotta work together.

I'll agree that a valve adjust IS the heart of a "full service" aka tuneup and should not be ignored.