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Old December 16th, 2011, 10:34 PM   #201
Rexbo
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Should be, its legal to cut subframes! Also I got a lightweight battery on the way so never fear, its just the tray
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Old January 24th, 2012, 09:14 PM   #202
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So another update here with my suspension setup v. 2.0:
- Changed fork oil to 20w oil, I was having lots of pogoing before, heavier oil seemed to do the trick. I'm not using the full suspension travel now during practice, so I may back off spring preload slightly, but we will see.
- Swapped the rear spring for a softer 8.1 kg/mm spring, rear grip and ride is definitely improved. Bumps I used to feel are gone, but I may need to increase preload a bit to keep the rear from squatting in turns. I also increased rear rebound damping a quarter turn, and now the rear wheel bounce under hard braking is gone, and corner entry slides are much smoother.
- Fabricated a custom 158mm eye to eye dogbone, raising the rear end of the bike, turn in is much quicker and the bike doesn't seem to want to run wide on exit as it used to. I will be making a batch of 156mm dogbones which will be as high as the gsxr shock will allow, and adjust the rest with front ride height. Definitely a worthwhile mod.

Weighed the bike, and with a quarter tank of gas it is at 294 lbs, with the front and rear wheel weights nearly identical. Me in full gear adds another 177. All in all, much lighter than it started out as, and with Pirelli slicks on the way, it should be a competitive bike!
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Old January 24th, 2012, 10:13 PM   #203
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Steve - great info. Can you please take a pic of the shock? Last time we spoke you had combined the locking thread perches.

btw - what is the OEM dogbone length. And, when you say batches of 156mm, would we be able to place orders?
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Old January 24th, 2012, 11:38 PM   #204
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I'm curious about these dogbones as well. Would you be limited to doing batches of certain sizes? or could we, for example, ask you to do one that was about 135 mm, which is a couple mm longer than aftershocks shortened dogbones for a pre-gen?

I know soupy's performance makes adjustable ones for a pregen that can raise the back end up, but $100 seems expensive, and I'd rather do business with a forum member anyways and tack on a few dollars for you to get yourself a beer on me
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Old January 24th, 2012, 11:48 PM   #205
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I'll get a pic of the shock and dogbones for you guys when I can.

It's super easy to change the length of these with CAD software, so I can get any length made. OEM 2nd gen length is 168mm I think, need to double check. Give me a few weeks and I will have a few sets made and anodized for everyone. They should be really cheap as well
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Old January 24th, 2012, 11:51 PM   #206
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Really cheap sounds good to me. I will be interested once I can find an actual length for the modified pre-gen dogbones. I'll add like 2mm on to that because I have the front lowered a touch...


Now I just need to find it to be certain. I read that the modified ones are either 6 or 7 (?) mm shorter...
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Old January 24th, 2012, 11:58 PM   #207
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Oh and just a summary, here's the bike setup as I think it will be perfect for my weight in case anyone wants to have a reference for race prep:
- Racetech gold emulators, 20w oil, 0.7 kg/mm springs, 120mm preload spacers, forks dropped 10mm above top triple.
- 2006 gsxr 600 rear shock 2 turns from soft compression 2.25 turns rebound, 8.1 kg/mm springs from a 2006 gsxr 1000, 156mm dogbones
- michelin power ones, 28psi front 30psi rear hot
- Pirelli supercorsa, 26psi front 28 psi rear hot
- bridgestone bt003, 30 psi front 28 psi rear hot.
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Old January 25th, 2012, 02:45 PM   #208
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I did my research. 135mm between the center of each hole is what I want to raise my bike up an inch in the rear.

Do you have any idea about the price of these dogbones when they're done? Not to be pushy. Just wondering if I should be expecting $20-$30 or $80-$90
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Old March 20th, 2012, 09:12 AM   #209
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Rexbo could you post a pic of your subframe cut job or any instructions on what you hacked exactly. I would be curious to see
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Old March 20th, 2012, 09:25 AM   #210
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 675Raisinator View Post
Rexbo could you post a pic of your subframe cut job or any instructions on what you hacked exactly. I would be curious to see
There's a couple photos on the previous page. I ended up re-attaching the subframe with fasteners so I could bolt it on and off if I wanted to, just so nobody can protest me racing.

Also the dogbones are coming along, they'll be in the $20-$30 range. Will post pics after anodize. I'll have two lengths most likely, one that will work with the gsxr rear shock, and the other that works with the stock rear shock (higher)
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Old March 20th, 2012, 03:41 PM   #211
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Also the dogbones are coming along, they'll be in the $20-$30 range. Will post pics after anodize. I'll have two lengths most likely, one that will work with the gsxr rear shock, and the other that works with the stock rear shock (higher)
When they're ready, can you post some pictures? I'm still interested in those custom length ones and spacers that we talked about before.
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Old March 20th, 2012, 09:24 PM   #212
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Thanks Rexbo for the all the info you provided on the GSXR shock. I finally did the mod and pretty happy with where i stand.

Spring fully backed out, sag is at 30mm. Rebound and HI/LO compression is fully backed out. I would prefer a bit "faster" rebound though.

My weight without gear : 175lb

Some key points on the gsxr shock mod :

1. Rexbo = Can you clarify this? Why did you grind the inside spacer of the shock top mount when the spacer from the 250 shock can be extracted and fitted to the gsxr shock top mount. While i started drilling the gsxr spacer with the 12mm drillbit, i just didnt like how thin it became, plus the heat generated was resulting in the rubber cushion going softer. Used the spacer from the 250 instead. (Heat the top mount slightly, and punched out the spacer, came out pretty easy). I need to find out how to get these spacers fab'ed.

2. Here are some bolt length measurements.
a. shock top mount : used 250 stock bolt and nut
b. for clevis (lower mount) : M12 x 80mm x 1.75 pitch. would have preferred 75mm length. stock is 70mm
c. for dogbones : M12 x 140mm x 1.75 pitch. would have preferred 125mm
length. stock is 100mm. [No local store had any bolt longer than 100mm. I went to Mr. Metric and they only had 140mm & above]
d. Collared spacers and several M12 washers.


I have NRS on 3/26 and would post my feedback on the shock.
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Old March 21st, 2012, 03:13 AM   #213
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@Rexbo Pics of said dogbones? This Ninjetter is definitely interested.
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Old March 21st, 2012, 06:50 AM   #214
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Quote:
Originally Posted by abhijitz View Post
Thanks Rexbo for the all the info you provided on the GSXR shock. I finally did the mod and pretty happy with where i stand.

Spring fully backed out, sag is at 30mm. Rebound and HI/LO compression is fully backed out. I would prefer a bit "faster" rebound though.

My weight without gear : 175lb

Some key points on the gsxr shock mod :

1. Rexbo = Can you clarify this? Why did you grind the inside spacer of the shock top mount when the spacer from the 250 shock can be extracted and fitted to the gsxr shock top mount. While i started drilling the gsxr spacer with the 12mm drillbit, i just didnt like how thin it became, plus the heat generated was resulting in the rubber cushion going softer. Used the spacer from the 250 instead. (Heat the top mount slightly, and punched out the spacer, came out pretty easy). I need to find out how to get these spacers fab'ed.
Good info! Not sure what year GSXR shock you got, but chances are, you'll need to soften up the rear spring a little. I swapped a spring from a gsxr1k that was around 8kg/mm for my weight (according to the racetech calculator) and the bike feels fantastic now. Couple this with shortened dogbones (not legal in AFM though) and the bike is SO much better.

As for the top mount, I didn't really think about swapping the spacers because my plan was to sell the OEM shock. So I just drilled the GSXR one instead. Good idea though!
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Old March 21st, 2012, 08:45 AM   #215
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I got the 06-07 GSXR 600 shock. Drilling that spacer made the collar so thin that i was concerned. I just looked up fiched and looks like we can order that spacer separately for the Ninja 250.

Preload is backed out to minimum so are the dampening settings. I would still prefer a bit more rebound. The 20W oil in the front too just doesnt feel right as well. (I am just running springs from Sonic for my weight).

Yes, you did send me the info on the GSXR1K shock spring swap and which spacers to use. My NRS is on 3/26, so will see how it feels.

I will still want to get a set of dogbones from you to test it out on a trackday :thumbup.

btw - where did you source your long bolts from. None of the popular hardware stores here had it and i had to go to this specialty store, Mr, Metric.

Quote:
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Good info! Not sure what year GSXR shock you got, but chances are, you'll need to soften up the rear spring a little. I swapped a spring from a gsxr1k that was around 8kg/mm for my weight (according to the racetech calculator) and the bike feels fantastic now. Couple this with shortened dogbones (not legal in AFM though) and the bike is SO much better.

As for the top mount, I didn't really think about swapping the spacers because my plan was to sell the OEM shock. So I just drilled the GSXR one instead. Good idea though!
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Old March 21st, 2012, 09:01 AM   #216
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TBH I cheated a little. I used 15/32" drill & bolts because they were easier to find. Stupid american measurements.

I am running the racetech emulators with the 20w oil and sonic springs for my weigh and the forks feel as good as they're ever gonna get. There will be a difference between the stock damping and the emulators which I can't make a comparison since I don't have another set of forks to test side by side. I think I have like a 130mm preload spacer, with the oil level at 140mm (with fork compressed all the way & no spring). I've also got the front triples dropped down 20mm from the top of the fork tubes as well to increase front head angle. Might lift those back up JUUST a bit because I get some low frequency head shake as I'm lifting the bike back up out of turns under power, as well as a little wobble hard on the brakes. Without the rear of the bike lifted up though, you'll need as much head angle as you can get.
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Old March 21st, 2012, 09:12 AM   #217
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I cant remember if 140mm OEM oil level.

If i remember correctly, you mentioned there was a 5mm drop in rear ride height with the gsxr shock (and OEM dogbones). Honestly, i did not even see 5mm drop.

I see what you did to get the "quicker turn". I might drop the triple couple of mm's. Need to figure out whats stock for height though, you know?


Quote:
Originally Posted by Rexbo View Post
TBH I cheated a little. I used 15/32" drill & bolts because they were easier to find. Stupid american measurements.

I am running the racetech emulators with the 20w oil and sonic springs for my weigh and the forks feel as good as they're ever gonna get. There will be a difference between the stock damping and the emulators which I can't make a comparison since I don't have another set of forks to test side by side. I think I have like a 130mm preload spacer, with the oil level at 140mm (with fork compressed all the way & no spring). I've also got the front triples dropped down 20mm from the top of the fork tubes as well to increase front head angle. Might lift those back up JUUST a bit because I get some low frequency head shake as I'm lifting the bike back up out of turns under power, as well as a little wobble hard on the brakes. Without the rear of the bike lifted up though, you'll need as much head angle as you can get.
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Old March 21st, 2012, 05:44 PM   #218
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An update : The sleeve is available as part of fiche and with 40% discount from my contact it is only 12$ :thumbup.

Total cost for this mod :
30$ (shock) + bolts/washers/spacers ~ 30$ + sleeve ~ 12$ = 72$.

I will do a writeup later. Thanks Rexbo for the direction.
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Old March 23rd, 2012, 09:50 AM   #219
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rexbo View Post
There's a couple photos on the previous page. I ended up re-attaching the subframe with fasteners so I could bolt it on and off if I wanted to, just so nobody can protest me racing.

Also the dogbones are coming along, they'll be in the $20-$30 range. Will post pics after anodize. I'll have two lengths most likely, one that will work with the gsxr rear shock, and the other that works with the stock rear shock (higher)
interdasting ... what kind of fasteners did you use ?
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Old March 25th, 2012, 01:32 PM   #220
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Also, here's a photo of how I mounted the gsxr1000 sprint onto the gsxr600 shock:



And also how much of the fairings I had to cut to drop the clipons lower:



And my sweet living room haha:

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Old March 27th, 2012, 07:19 AM   #221
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Oh man its inspiring to see the trophies ... I cant wait to start racing

ps ... what kind of fairings do you have
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Old March 27th, 2012, 08:44 AM   #222
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Steve, I like how you cut the fairing. Even with the Woodcrafts up against the top triple, the bars feel high.
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Old March 27th, 2012, 08:47 AM   #223
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OP!

Read through most of this thread and wow man! Inspiring and GJ!

You got any advice for someone who's never done a track day (going this year for sure though) and is looking to race one day?

Finally have all the gear needed, but my bike is no where near track ready.

My bike is mostly stock minus SS brake lines, yosh rear set extendors, WC clip ons, slip on exhaust, snorkel removal, ca emissions removal and other comestic mods. Where should I start on my bike to get it track and one day race ready!?
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Old March 27th, 2012, 08:51 AM   #224
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Damn your forks are way up! No wonder I can't turn. Mine are practically flush. That would explain some.
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Old March 27th, 2012, 09:00 AM   #225
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Old March 27th, 2012, 01:11 PM   #226
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Raisinator: Hotbodies. Now get out there and earn yourself some trophies

Pjed: Dropping the bars helped a TON. My posture was way too upright to begin with so it helped me keep my head down. http://www.caliphotography.com/photo...#image=1815793

Walty: Sounds like your bike is already pretty much track-worthy if you have a decent set of tires on it! If you need a hand getting to the track or want to tag along with someone, there's tons of people here more than willing to help out.

Kit: Stock, the upper triple is 12mm below the fork tops, I dropped mine down to 20mm and raised up the back end, making it a little twitchy now, so I might lift the front up a few mm and see if it feels better.

Nem: Aim high
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Old March 27th, 2012, 01:21 PM   #227
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WTF? Was that a height joke? LMAO!
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Old March 27th, 2012, 01:37 PM   #228
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Rexbo - Thanks for the pics of the gsxr1000 spring mounted. You basically used the locknut from the that shock, got it !

btw - i ordered the OEM spacer off the Ninja shock. It came to only 6 bucks a piece. If no one is worried about ride height (the RPM shock is similar sized too and not ride height adjustable), i am thinking of preparing a full set of shock which can be made available to the public with 2 sets of spring and necesarry bolts and your dogbones ... shock will be serviced and clevis holes will be drilled, including clevis inside burshed/sanded. Definitely will be a worthy shock setup under 200$
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Old March 27th, 2012, 01:43 PM   #229
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Rexbo,

I know it's mostly track ready, but don't you have to disconnect the lights, and put distilled water in it? The little stuff like that is the stuff I don't k ow about.

Also what tires do you run?and why?
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Old March 27th, 2012, 02:02 PM   #230
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Are you trying to make it "track-ready" or "race-ready" ?

If "race-ready" you will need to follow your local club rules AND If "track-ready" you will need to follow the trackday provider rules.

For some trackday providers, tape off headlights, signal lights, taillights is Ok. some mandate you to disconnect connectors.

distilled water with water wetter in your radiator is fine.

Definitely, invest in a set of track bodywork. OEM bodywork, lights cost money. track bodywork is easily repairable.



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Rexbo,

I know it's mostly track ready, but don't you have to disconnect the lights, and put distilled water in it? The little stuff like that is the stuff I don't k ow about.

Also what tires do you run?and why?
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Old March 27th, 2012, 02:55 PM   #231
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Rexbo,

I know it's mostly track ready, but don't you have to disconnect the lights, and put distilled water in it? The little stuff like that is the stuff I don't k ow about.

Also what tires do you run?and why?
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yeah just pull the fuses that go to the lights/turn signals, tape over the lights/turn signals with masking tape, and take off the rearview mirrors. Flushing the coolant and replacing with water/water wetter mix is a good idea too, most SoCal track day orgs don't require it, but nearly all race orgs do.

The cheapest decent tires for track are the bridgestone bt-003s or bt-016s. The beastliest tires (in my opinion) are the Pirellis, but they're more expensive and you might not need them right off the bat, especially if you still commute on the bike.
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Old April 9th, 2012, 09:30 AM   #232
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purchased the gsxr shock last year and it has been sitting in my basement waiting to go on.... looks like I will be attempting it in the next couple weeks.... any updated hints/tips/suggestions?
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Old April 9th, 2012, 09:41 AM   #233
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If you go through one page before, Rexbo has listed everything that need to be done with the gsxr shock.

Couple of notes :

1. Rear will sit 7 mm lower, adjust your front accordingly. (OR wait for Rexbo's shorter dogbones)

2. You will not get long metric bolts for the lower links. I did not get them at any hardware store. You will need to find a metric bolt shop. Length needed : 125mm (I have a spare set if you want i can sell them to you, lol)

3. TIP : You can buy the OEM shock top collar part # and use it to replace the top gsxr collar. No grinding required for the top. 12$ for the OEM part from my contact

4. Take your time shaving off material from the lower clevis. Took me good 45 minutes. Do it even on both legs. (I can shoot a picture and post)

5. You definitely need a softer spring. There is practically no free sag with the gsxr shock spring and very little rider sag {based on your weight} (oem spring = 9.4 kg/mm).


FWIW : I rode with the gsxr shock at Thunderhill, pathetic ! Shifted back to stock and rode Laguna yesterday, much much better. So, to get the most out of it, use the shorter dogbones & softer spring.




Quote:
Originally Posted by MattRichling View Post
purchased the gsxr shock last year and it has been sitting in my basement waiting to go on.... looks like I will be attempting it in the next couple weeks.... any updated hints/tips/suggestions?
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Old April 10th, 2012, 08:52 AM   #234
thisisbenji
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Quote:
Helmet, jacket and my cell phone took most of the fall and amazingly enough my HTC EVO still works perfectly! Gotta give props to the cell phone case for acting as a hip slider for a while!
Sorry to bring up an old post but that made me think of something.

I used to have an HTC Evo when they first came out. I had it in my front pocket while I was riding my road bicycle. I was going about 20 mph, not watching where I was going down a bike path. Well it turns out that the city was going to light off some fireworks and put up a temporary gate. I ran straight into it and my leg was one of the first things to hit.

Anyways it still worked. What a tough phone.


DSC_7269 by Benji Reynolds, on Flickr


DSC_7273 by Benji Reynolds, on Flickr
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Old April 10th, 2012, 11:40 AM   #235
MattRichling
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Anyone else found the GSXR shock too stiff?? I am 176lbs naked....

Quote:
Originally Posted by abhijitz View Post
If you go through one page before, Rexbo has listed everything that need to be done with the gsxr shock.

Couple of notes :

1. Rear will sit 7 mm lower, adjust your front accordingly. (OR wait for Rexbo's shorter dogbones)

2. You will not get long metric bolts for the lower links. I did not get them at any hardware store. You will need to find a metric bolt shop. Length needed : 125mm (I have a spare set if you want i can sell them to you, lol)

3. TIP : You can buy the OEM shock top collar part # and use it to replace the top gsxr collar. No grinding required for the top. 12$ for the OEM part from my contact

4. Take your time shaving off material from the lower clevis. Took me good 45 minutes. Do it even on both legs. (I can shoot a picture and post)

5. You definitely need a softer spring. There is practically no free sag with the gsxr shock spring and very little rider sag {based on your weight} (oem spring = 9.4 kg/mm).


FWIW : I rode with the gsxr shock at Thunderhill, pathetic ! Shifted back to stock and rode Laguna yesterday, much much better. So, to get the most out of it, use the shorter dogbones & softer spring.
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Old April 10th, 2012, 11:42 AM   #236
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Originally Posted by MattRichling View Post
Anyone else found the GSXR shock too stiff?? I am 176lbs naked....
Yep the 9.4 kg/mm spring is way too stiff. Thats why I swapped on the lighter 8.1kg/mm spring and now it works out REALLY well.
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Old April 10th, 2012, 11:51 AM   #237
MattRichling
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How much did the 8.1kg/mm Spring cost you? ebay?
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Old April 10th, 2012, 11:55 AM   #238
Rexbo
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You can order replacement springs from several places online (google ftw), or find a used gsxr 1000 shock/spring on ebay like I did earlier in this thread. I picked up the gsxr whole rear shock with spring for $20 shipped
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Old April 10th, 2012, 12:14 PM   #239
walty87
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taking my 2012 250 to the track soon for the first time.

are safety wires required?
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Old April 10th, 2012, 12:17 PM   #240
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Should be, its legal to cut subframes! Also I got a lightweight battery on the way so never fear, its just the tray
Posted via Mobile Device
Details on the battery, plskthnx
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