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Old March 16th, 2012, 02:30 PM   #1641
str8t six
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kstorm21 View Post
Cool, is that why you did this over paint, so you could peel it off if you don't like it later?
sure did! or if i just wanted to sell it, because most people like stock bikes.
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Old March 16th, 2012, 03:10 PM   #1642
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did my first 2 up today, went very well as Amy's 2 previous boyfriends had bikes and she kinda remembered the laws of the passenger haha. Except she did lean on me for a good while - freaking arms are sore --- BUT THAT'S WHY WE DO TEST RUNS RIGHT?!

Exactly. All-in-all was a great ride today
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Old March 18th, 2012, 12:30 AM   #1643
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Dug up the chain I broke off last week so that I could place it back on and break the nut on the countershaft sprocket. During this, I found that several roller links were missing their rollers and two had only barely more than half (enough to hang on in a C-shape).

This isn't the first time, either.

Before, I thought it was because it was a cheap $30 chain or because it had been ridden way too tight and a shop had bungled the original install, but this one was an OEM chain with a couple links removed. It came off Casey's bike (@ninja250) but I know it wasn't like that. In fact, we did that specifically because I couldn't go home on the other chain that was already like that. We changed the rear sprocket too (brand new 38T) and the front sprocket still looks fine today, even though I was already changing both sprockets and the chain.

Anyway, I broke off a representational segment of the chain and spent a ton of time trying to clean it. I also found a chunk of one of the missing rollers in the bag I had stored the trash chain in for the last week. Edit: Pics and video.

Before doing all that, I used my 12v emergency impact wrench to remove the front sprocket. I later removed the rear sprocket and both wheels.

The rims were still FILTHY from the cross-country trip last year and you could barely tell that the back one was supposed to be powder-coated blue! What better time to clean them than when the wheels are off the bike? Let me tell you though: Cleaning painted rims is an ALL DAY JOB. I used WD40 to eat away at the soap and water-resistant grime and then used a dry paper towel in all the same nooks and crannies and then used soap to get the oily film off. I need a tire change anyway, so I didn't care about getting WD40 on the bald tires. There were actually many steps in between, such as rubbing what I could off with my hands and a hose before getting started and doing each step repeatedly. The results on the rear, the dirtiest, were actually better than the front because there are some dark/dull areas that just won't shine up.

I tried to finish before the motorsports shops close but that didn't happen. That means that the bike is going to be up on stands until at least Tuesday. There is so much pollen in the air that I had to rinse off the first wheel again after finishing cleaning the second, but I still figured that it's best to leave it on the bike so I slipped the axles back in just in case the stands failed (didn't mount nuts, speedo, brakes, etc).

Speaking of stands failing, I do not trust my head stand. The paint on top of the holder arm is cracking and there is a dent on the bottom attachment point of the tube it attaches to, so I'm pretty sure the weld is going bad. Also, it didn't lift high enough to take the tire out without deflating it. If I weren't doing it on that foam flooring material, it would have been slightly easier. I put a 12mm Harbor Freight Pittsburgh socket in it to approximate an 18mm pin (measures 17.75mm) and it fits tight in both the stand and the head, but I don't think it's going all the way in the head when I lift. I think it is a different angle, so the head is just resting on it.

Anyway, the whole thing is in a lean-to behind a barn with a walk-in door-sized area at one side and an open window-like area on the other but everything is still painted yellow with all the pollen. Seriously. I was scared to open my tank because I expected a ton of pollen to fall in and I can only imagine what my airbox air filter cleaning element looks like after idling for a couple hours (trying to empty a bit of the tank's stale gas so I can add Seafoam and E0 fuel).

I did hand-tighten the new CS sprocket but I did not install the rear or the chain yet. I'm not going to bother until I go to get the replacement tires mounted. Even then, I now have to wonder what is ruining chains on my bike with today's revelation that it may not have been the unfortunate circumstances I knew my older chain had been through that caused it's identical problem.

Oh! I needed the impact wrench on the front axle nut too. This is the second time that I've found it both way too tight and impossible to turn manually without someone holding the other side. What gives? I've found the rear way too tight too. It's like these things somehow tighten on the road despite their cotter pins.

Almost forgot: I finally got a proper gap tool from Autozone today and found that the Harbor Freight one, which couldn't even lift the ground electrode with the "gap opener" part that was made for that purpose, also had bad measurements. HF read it well under the minimum spec of 0.030" while three Autozone gap tools measured it right at or a bit over 0.030". It also cost less than half of what HF charged. Screw Harbor Freight.

Last futzed with by CZroe; March 18th, 2012 at 08:37 AM.
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Old March 18th, 2012, 04:28 PM   #1644
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I finished putting my carbs back together and reinstalling them on my bike. The airbox boots were very frustrating to install and were the worst part of the entire job. I adjusted the idle mixture and the bike runs much better.
I still need to synch the carbs but I want to install some tees in the vacuum lines so that it will be easier in the future.
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Old March 18th, 2012, 06:56 PM   #1645
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@greenaero, http://www.ninjette.org/forums/showthread.php?p=297756
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Old March 18th, 2012, 07:00 PM   #1646
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Put the Ninja up for sale Saturday morning. Had someone text me asking to come check it out today, but they haven't responded back yet.
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Old March 18th, 2012, 09:47 PM   #1647
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Chris, Thanks , I did cut off the battery holder from the back of the airbox; much better!
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Old March 19th, 2012, 05:35 PM   #1648
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After only being on Craigslist for 2 days the Ninja is sold.
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Old March 21st, 2012, 06:48 AM   #1649
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CZroe View Post
Dug up the chain I broke off last week so that I could place it back on and break the nut on the countershaft sprocket. During this, I found that several roller links were missing their rollers and two had only barely more than half (enough to hang on in a C-shape).

This isn't the first time, either.

Before, I thought it was because it was a cheap $30 chain or because it had been ridden way too tight and a shop had bungled the original install, but this one was an OEM chain with a couple links removed. It came off Casey's bike (@ninja250) but I know it wasn't like that. In fact, we did that specifically because I couldn't go home on the other chain that was already like that. We changed the rear sprocket too (brand new 38T) and the front sprocket still looks fine today, even though I was already changing both sprockets and the chain.

Anyway, I broke off a representational segment of the chain and spent a ton of time trying to clean it. I also found a chunk of one of the missing rollers in the bag I had stored the trash chain in for the last week. Edit: Pics and video.

Before doing all that, I used my 12v emergency impact wrench to remove the front sprocket. I later removed the rear sprocket and both wheels.

The rims were still FILTHY from the cross-country trip last year and you could barely tell that the back one was supposed to be powder-coated blue! What better time to clean them than when the wheels are off the bike? Let me tell you though: Cleaning painted rims is an ALL DAY JOB. I used WD40 to eat away at the soap and water-resistant grime and then used a dry paper towel in all the same nooks and crannies and then used soap to get the oily film off. I need a tire change anyway, so I didn't care about getting WD40 on the bald tires. There were actually many steps in between, such as rubbing what I could off with my hands and a hose before getting started and doing each step repeatedly. The results on the rear, the dirtiest, were actually better than the front because there are some dark/dull areas that just won't shine up.

I tried to finish before the motorsports shops close but that didn't happen. That means that the bike is going to be up on stands until at least Tuesday. There is so much pollen in the air that I had to rinse off the first wheel again after finishing cleaning the second, but I still figured that it's best to leave it on the bike so I slipped the axles back in just in case the stands failed (didn't mount nuts, speedo, brakes, etc).

Speaking of stands failing, I do not trust my head stand. The paint on top of the holder arm is cracking and there is a dent on the bottom attachment point of the tube it attaches to, so I'm pretty sure the weld is going bad. Also, it didn't lift high enough to take the tire out without deflating it. If I weren't doing it on that foam flooring material, it would have been slightly easier. I put a 12mm Harbor Freight Pittsburgh socket in it to approximate an 18mm pin (measures 17.75mm) and it fits tight in both the stand and the head, but I don't think it's going all the way in the head when I lift. I think it is a different angle, so the head is just resting on it.

Anyway, the whole thing is in a lean-to behind a barn with a walk-in door-sized area at one side and an open window-like area on the other but everything is still painted yellow with all the pollen. Seriously. I was scared to open my tank because I expected a ton of pollen to fall in and I can only imagine what my airbox air filter cleaning element looks like after idling for a couple hours (trying to empty a bit of the tank's stale gas so I can add Seafoam and E0 fuel).

I did hand-tighten the new CS sprocket but I did not install the rear or the chain yet. I'm not going to bother until I go to get the replacement tires mounted. Even then, I now have to wonder what is ruining chains on my bike with today's revelation that it may not have been the unfortunate circumstances I knew my older chain had been through that caused it's identical problem.

Oh! I needed the impact wrench on the front axle nut too. This is the second time that I've found it both way too tight and impossible to turn manually without someone holding the other side. What gives? I've found the rear way too tight too. It's like these things somehow tighten on the road despite their cotter pins.

Almost forgot: I finally got a proper gap tool from Autozone today and found that the Harbor Freight one, which couldn't even lift the ground electrode with the "gap opener" part that was made for that purpose, also had bad measurements. HF read it well under the minimum spec of 0.030" while three Autozone gap tools measured it right at or a bit over 0.030". It also cost less than half of what HF charged. Screw Harbor Freight.
Video here:
http://www.ninjette.org/forums/showp...7&postcount=27
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Old March 21st, 2012, 12:42 PM   #1650
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So i finally removed the snorkel (intake). Im pleased with the result... presumed better acceleration... n noticeable deeper sound
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Old March 21st, 2012, 03:15 PM   #1651
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I took my motorcycle to work. I worked in a remote office that was 60 miles away so I had a nice 120 mile trip (my longest so far). I got out earlier than expected today and it was gorgeous out and on the highway I got my Ninja up to 100MPH, damn it felt good. It felt even better since I just bought a Zero Gravity Double Bubble windscreen. In my opinion it makes the bike much more stable to ride on the highway. With the original windscreen I was practically laying on the tank praying the wind wouldn't take me, lol. Today was a good day.
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Old March 21st, 2012, 04:05 PM   #1652
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Installed a water temp gauge last weekend.

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Old March 21st, 2012, 04:10 PM   #1653
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Today I installed a stainless steel brake line (took me less then an hour too!), Also removed passenger foot pegs and installed a yosh exhaust mount
Attached Images
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File Type: jpg bike new 2.jpg (97.6 KB, 8 views)
File Type: jpg bikenew1.jpg (184.9 KB, 4 views)
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Old March 21st, 2012, 04:12 PM   #1654
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So i finally removed the snorkel (intake). Im pleased with the result... presumed better acceleration... n noticeable deeper sound
how long did it take you?
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Old March 21st, 2012, 04:30 PM   #1655
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how long did it take you?
should take under 30 mins while drinking a beer and bullsh*ting with the neighbor
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Old March 21st, 2012, 04:31 PM   #1656
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Today I installed a stainless steel brake line (took me less then an hour too!), Also removed passenger foot pegs and installed a yosh exhaust mount
What line did you get?
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Old March 21st, 2012, 04:46 PM   #1657
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What line did you get?
Galfer Stainless Steel Hydraulic Front Brake Line

http://www.motorcycle-superstore.com...50R-Parts.aspx

(not sure if link worked). cheapest one I seen
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Old March 21st, 2012, 04:59 PM   #1658
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Today I installed a stainless steel brake line
I freakin love my SS brake lines!!!!! have fun
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Old March 21st, 2012, 05:55 PM   #1659
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how long did it take you?
it took me 5 mins at most... just take off black small fairing... remove air box lid... push the (snorkel out) reseal everything DONE
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Old March 21st, 2012, 06:02 PM   #1660
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... remove air box lid...
I have cleaned my air filter 4 times now (I'm at 4400 ish miles currently) and I've noticed that removing the air box lid is getting successively harder each time I remove it. It's like the metal holes the hex screws screw into are digging into the plastic of the lid....has anyone noticed this/had this happen?
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Old March 21st, 2012, 06:06 PM   #1661
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I lead the group for the 3rd day in a row! 8 bikes hitting the canyons and a the only 250 sets the pace. lol

The guy on the Ducati said "Damn!".
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Old March 21st, 2012, 06:07 PM   #1662
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I have cleaned my air filter 4 times now (I'm at 4400 ish miles currently) and I've noticed that removing the air box lid is getting successively harder each time I remove it. It's like the metal holes the hex screws screw into are digging into the plastic of the lid....has anyone noticed this/had this happen?
Do you after stock or aftermarket? grease will always help (vaseline 2 for it is also grease lol)

I havent had that problem tho, in out on with my life
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Old March 21st, 2012, 06:10 PM   #1663
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I lead the group for the 3rd day in a row! 8 bikes hitting the canyons and a the only 250 sets the pace. lol

The guy on the Ducati said "Damn!".
Did anyone else in the group ride track?
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Old March 21st, 2012, 06:18 PM   #1664
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@choneofakind 4 of the 8 could be at the track with us, Mid-O is popular with this group.

I "let" (hahahahah) a R1 in front for a bit. Trying to get the vid from him (rear facing cam). I will forewarn you... it's not my normal street riding. New thread to follow with video, so you all can bash me for being an lol
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Old March 21st, 2012, 06:33 PM   #1665
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uhhhh huh, sure! we'll let the video do the talking. I keep my squidly vids off youtube for a reason

I can't wait!!!! I want to meet cool people on fun bikes!! as long as they don't mind chillin with the college kid on the 16 year old bike...

side note: I can't recall ever actually ever seeing one of the new R1's on the road, only at the motorcycle show
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Old March 21st, 2012, 08:02 PM   #1666
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Installed Dynojet jet kit, reinstalled the carbs, installed Shogun frame sliders, did the Kleen removal mod using a block off plate. Finally...some progress.
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Old March 22nd, 2012, 11:53 PM   #1667
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I topped off my coolant reservoir with some distilled water
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Old March 23rd, 2012, 12:55 AM   #1668
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Rebuilt forks. May have used the wrong fork oil (5W). The service manual does not specify a fork oil weight ("KAYABA SS-8").

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I topped off my coolant reservoir with some distilled water
Same here. I reset a fitting at the upper right but I still seem to be leaking from the lower left fitting.
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Old March 23rd, 2012, 11:04 AM   #1669
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Took it half way across the country, then back an hour later...

Motorways are no fun

But the last 40 miles where I turned off to find petrol & found twistys to go with it
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Old March 23rd, 2012, 09:48 PM   #1670
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Mined the service manual for torque values and other little things I needed to finish up work on the bike; left to go buy Molybdenum Disulfide grease, service-removable thread locker, disposable funnels (couldn't find any), some 1/2" PVC caps to use as pre-load spacers, 10x1.25mm bolts with sleeves to use as spools, high-temp liquid gasket, etc, etc, etc. The little stuff adds up.
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Old March 24th, 2012, 09:43 AM   #1671
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Cleaned and adjusted my drive chain (the thing was more than 2 inches outside the recommended range on the loose side ) and OH!...Since I've decided to go sticker crazy on my bike, I started out with Kawi logos on the underside of main faring and the sides of the front cowl (which I would like to think is unique ).

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Old March 24th, 2012, 10:03 AM   #1672
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Cleaned and adjusted my drive chain (the thing was more than 2 inches outside the recommended range on the loose side ) and OH!...Since I've decided to go sticker crazy on my bike, I started out with Kawi logos on the underside of main faring and the sides of the front cowl (which I would like to think is unique ).

Nice bike. Who makes it?
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Old March 24th, 2012, 10:14 AM   #1673
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Changed the front brake pads and gonna give her a good cleaning after the rain.
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Old March 24th, 2012, 11:42 AM   #1674
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i did .. this
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Old March 24th, 2012, 11:48 AM   #1675
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Yikes!

I was going to install jets into my bike today, but realized I'll have to remove the carbs to do it. Doesn't seem to be possible to do without removing them since I still have the air box.
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Old March 24th, 2012, 12:10 PM   #1676
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Benji, it's doable, just not fun. take your time and don't get mad at it.

the other option is to just remove the airbox and go with the pod filter
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Old March 24th, 2012, 12:49 PM   #1677
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I planned on doing the pod filter eventually, but don't have stands for the bike currently. That'll probably be something I do in may. Hopefully it's not too hard to get the carbs out with the air box on. I'v seen a DIY of someone doing it so..
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Old March 25th, 2012, 11:08 AM   #1678
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Originally Posted by Xz1atl View Post
it took me 5 mins at most... just take off black small fairing... remove air box lid... push the (snorkel out) reseal everything DONE
I read somewhere (maybe another ninja forum) that you have to rejet after taking off the snorkel? is this true? I've been wanting to do this?

As for me, I cleaned and lubed my bike's chain. Waiting on the oil filter to do oil change, and to run through a whole tank with seafoam to change the plugs
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Old March 25th, 2012, 12:26 PM   #1679
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I read somewhere (maybe another ninja forum) that you have to rejet after taking off the snorkel? is this true? I've been wanting to do this?
main jets *should* be fine, but you should still do some WOT tests to check them. The needles will most likely need to be raised, and the mix screws should be checked.

So yes, re-jetted.
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Old March 25th, 2012, 06:55 PM   #1680
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Had a really productive day today. I painted the spot where I ground off the kickstand. Finished installing the SV Racing rear sets and Woodcraft clip ons with some lock tite. Made the safety wire choke mod. Reinstalled the gas tank after I picked it up from the painter. Fired it up for the first time since I put on the jet kit and it ran great...woo hoo! I installed the newly painted race bodywork. Put on some Gripster grip pads. And to top it off, I put on some green rim tape

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