My 2006 Kawasaki Ninja EX250F.

[N-m]

I am currently in South TN and ride my 2006 all I can. She is ugly, smells like fumes, has a little bit of a stutter but she is mine. I intend to use her like a borrowed mule until I get the GS back in running shape and then I don't know what will happen. At the moment I am enjoying every minute riding her, though.

Below is a link to the thread I started at ADVRider.com before I heard about the Ninjette.org forums. In fact, Tony here spread the word and I appreciate that. Long story short I don't have time to post as much as I would like so I am taking the lazy but approved route of posting up a link here. Feel free to ad to that thread or here.
http://www.advrider.com/forums/showt...=921308&page=5

My goal is to compile everything I have on the bike in this thread for new riders to further the cause. These forums have been a huge help in getting this bike running as well as it is so I wanted to give back as much as I can.

If you wanted some help/opinion in looking at or working on a bike in my area feel free to contact me. I will help all I can. I firmly believe the more I help others the more I learn or simply reinforce in my own mind.

[N-m]

Maintenance on Your Bike.

At the end of July I spent three full days addressing various issues that naturally had never been looked at in the way of maintenance or preventive maintenance. I highly recommend a new owner do this. Most of these things can be done with a quality wrench set, socket set, torque wrench and the info found here.

This process instills confidence in you when in and out of the saddle. The satisfaction of taking the next trip and having zero issues b/c you addressed everything properly is immense and only ads to the ride. Many people want to own a trouble/maintenance free vehicle and that is fine, but I was taught wrenching is half the fun when it comes to bikes. I would have to agree.

[N-m]

Commuting on My Ninja.

I return to school in September. If I commute every day we are looking at around 90 minutes one way. I may have an opportunity to stay in the area and work part time but that still puts me at 30 minutes one way. Definitely a chance to rack up some miles on the hardly used Ninja! I am blessed.

The longer commute will involve 95% interstate travel. I had someone tell me top speed on my "bicycle" was around 60 mph and that I had a death wish if I tried to get on the interstate since a four wheeler would blow me off the pavement. Death comes to us all at some point. I think someone here has the signature line of "Life - No one gets out alive."

Challenge accepted.

Don't believe the above nonsense. The trip I talked about involved mostly interstate travel and I never had a problem with staying out of someone's way, getting out of the way, moving around large trucks, cross winds, etc. Is it easier on a heavier bike with a full windscreen. Absolutely. Can you still enjoy a trip that has a different feel and levels of performance? Absolutely.

[N-m]

Dunlop GT501 Tires on the Ninja 250.

The short version - Yep.

The more detailed version - If you are looking for a better tire than the dry rotted and poor performing factory tires I strongly suggest you consider the 501's in the following sizes:

Front - 110/90/16;
Rear - 130/90/16.

Do you have a longer inseam? Want great performance in the rain? Don't mind drilling a front fender to accommodate the larger diameter front? Then these tires may be for you.

I could find one or the other for a little less money but not both. I think I payed a few dollars more by getting them both from this location but it was easier on me to order and keep up with the order. Pricing reference for Motorcycle Superstore with free shipping:

Front - $109.99;
Rear - $149.99.

So far they still look brand new. Total miles thus far is less than 1,000 so they should. I will post up pics of the actual tread wear at a later date.

[N-m]

Parts.

I bought a few parts from this dude. The white front fender you see in the above pics came from him. I also bought both kickstands for a custom project I am currently working on. Stay tuned for that.
https://www.ninjette.org/forums/showthread.php?t=175972

[N-m]

Rear Turn Signals Relocated to Pods.

This is the thread that led me to the rear turn signal lenses I wanted. I had a good experience ordering from the links in the first post and the lenses fit really well.
https://www.ninjette.org/forums/showthread.php?t=169283

Note I am currently taking a different route than many. Since I do my best to ride in all weather i want to retain the rear fender for now and just eliminate the factory stalks. I am looking for a bulb or light sockets that will allow me to do this. i still have some leg work to do on these so stay tuned.

I found a note somewhere on the legality of this modification. Supposedly federal law states your turn signals must be 9 inches from center to center if they are a different color than your brake lens. According to the tape the centers on my amber pods meet this minimum.

[N-m]

Picture Requests for CA.

https://www.ninjette.org/forums/show...726#post907726

[Alex]

[N-m]

So I returned to school on 09/02/14. I have been able to ride 4 of the 9 days and it is a long but easy commute. 95% is open slab on the interstate or bypass at 70 mph. According to the bike's odometer the trip is 82 miles one way. According to the Outback the trip is 86 miles one way.

Performance
The bike is running great and this is definitely a bike for a commuter if you love the small cockpit and can live with the buzz. Anyone saying this bike is not made for the interstate with the stock chain set up and better tires doesn't know what they are talking about. This little bike loves eating up the miles as long as your tail can stand it. Easily keeping up with traffic.

An indicated 75 mph while tach'ing just over 9,000 rpm is the norm here.

Fuel Economy
With nothing on I scale around 235 at 6'1" with a <36 inch inseam. I am guessing my riding gear and books bring me up to 250 at least. I am tucked, upright and everything in between at any given moment. If I encounter a lot of turbulence from trucks it is easier to tuck and if I am by myself it is easier to sit up.

An indicated 75 mph while tach'ing just over 9,000 rpm is the norm here. In the low gears I keep the bike in the 6,000 to 8,000 rpm range. Once I get into third gear I keep the bike on at least 8,000 rpm since it runs much better there. If I drop below 8,000 while in sixth gear I will drop down to fifth. I do regularly get into the 10,000 to 11,000 rpm range but try not to stay there long before shifting or changing something else.

I am fueling up every two or three legs. I try to fuel right before I jump on the interstate for the next leg. I have figured out I am probably wasting fuel in the overflow while refueling. I am going to begin measuring the fuel level from the gas cap ring to try and get a consistent refueling level in an effort to better track my fuel mileage. As consistent as fuel economy has been looking I do not believe the small amount of weeping from the tank holes is having an impact on this number.

I also believe the bike is running well but still needs some work. There is a surging present at times that a rider new to this bike would not detect, an old chain and sprocket, a valve check and carb sync that have yet to be done, etc. I have a lot of things on the checklist that I have to find time for.

Tires - The Dunlops are still running great. i have selected 34 psi for the front and 36 psi for the rear. Those were arbitrary numbers picked as a "gotta start somewhere." With the weather we have I have been surprised to find a variation of only +- 0.5 to 1.0 psi from those settings. I may be able to getter a smaller variation if I pulled the tires and cleaned the rims better. I did balance the rear tire upon installation but have never balanced the front tire. I have yet to tell the front needs to be balanced.

Some actual numbers:

1. 9/9/14 - 49.31 mpg
2. 9/10/14 - 49.41 mpg

Range:
Tank is filled to overflow, petcock is in "ON" position and ran until "RES" position - ~204 miles
Petcock is in "RES" position and ran until bone dry - ~40 miles.

Questions:

1. I intend to replace the chain and sprockets soon. Will this make a difference in fuel economy? I have posts indicating it would.
2. Would different tire pressure settings increase or decrease fuel economy?
3. A carb sync would definitely improve performace. Wanna guess what I am going to find when I get in there?
4. I wonder if the jets in the carb are stock?
5. How much difference are unsealed vs. spring clamped vs. zip tied carb boots making in the performance arena?

Comfort
One hundred miles on this bike is my absolute limit right now. A better number is the low 80's since I can get off at school and not feel like I am dying. That last 20 miles makes all the difference. I have got to lower the pegs, get better padding under the pelvis and get a tank bag so I can rest the back.

My legs - The knees don't start bothering me until I get above 80 miles. Then my lower legs start feeling like lead. They are not going to sleep but numb. I have to get off and start walking at that point. Actually I have to get in the habit of stopping before that point and walking around. That is better for me and safe riding in the future.

My tail - I move back and forth on the stock seat. While on the Natchez Trace last Friday I was standing and moving back onto the pillion from time to time trying to get my body stretched out enough to get comfortable. If I were to keep this bike long enough a custom seat would definitely be worth it. It would be softer, taller, flatter and w/o the dramatic transition to the pillion area.

My back - I am tucked, upright and everything in between at any given moment. When anything but straight I try to tighten up my core and that seems to help until time to reposition. If I encounter a lot of turbulence from trucks it is easier to tuck and if I am by myself it is easier to sit up. I am getting a tank bag soon and strapping the small pack down. Those two things should make the commute more comfortable.

Can I do long rides on this bike? Absolutely. I just have to stop every 80 miles with the current cockpit layout. I either have to mod this bike to extend that distance or go to a different bike altogether. I would love to have a ride that allows me to do 300 to 400 miles at a stretch! I can imagine how comfortable that would be!

[N-m]

Side notes:

1. Zero time to look further into the bayonet fittings for integrated turn signals.
2. Chain maintenance is being performed about every other tank of fuel, or less than 500 miles. It takes about five minutes.
3. I am considering the fuel rated JB Weld as a Plan B on the tank holes. That would be easier to do time wise and only cost a few bucks.
4. I now have the service manuals and valve tool for a valve clearance job. Now time is the only factor.
5. I have been considering Plastidip for the front fender. I wonder if I could find the matching color?
6. I have been considering removing the flames. I generally despise flames and the stickers show wear and tear.
7. Mirrors work great but do not allow me to see behind my back. I have to "move around myself" in the mirror to see directly behind me. I can live with this.
8. It appears the pet cock may have stopped leaking.
9. I can get about 40 miles out of the reserve while running normally on the interstate.
10. I found better fasteners at the local hardware that are much better for the windscreen but everything was nearly $20.00! At least they work better.
11. I need a waterproof, digital and preferably military time clock, bad.

[N-m]

https://www.ninjette.org/forums/show...753#post921753

[N-m]

First oil change: I changed out all the o rings, oil screen, filter and oil since I needed to know exactly where I stood. There was a minimal amount of metal shavings in the screen. I assume this was from initial wear on a new engine. Everything else looked good.

Second oil change: I went ahead and changed the oil after 1,460 miles since I had time, all the parts and wanted to see what everything looked like. I changed only the filter and oil.

The oil and filter looked new with no presence of metal or dirt. Quick and easy this time. It took about 30 minutes since I had a buddy talking to me the entire time.

Third oil change: At this change I will pull and inspect the screen again, hopefully w/o damaging it. I will also consider replacing all the o rings since they are supplied with the filter. I may also change the type of oil I am using to a 10-40 since that is what we are using in the four wheeler. Strictly for the sake of streamlining logistics. I may have to order the gallon jug on line.

[N-m]

Care to guess how I confirmed the range of RESERVE? :roll eyes:

[N-m]

A rider on ADVRider.com who has an ongoing thread rode by this park one day. I was in the area later so I finally stopped as well.

Note the Rotopax fuel cells. The gas in that area is around 25 cents cheaper so I always buy as much as I can when down there. Yep, I am that cheap.

[N-m]

He already has big feet.

[N-m]

It's green with the batteries and blue LED's. That thing will fly!

[N-m]

I hate it when they don't keep the ticker tape full. :roll eyes:

[N-m]

A buddy's new bike on the square. It's the BMW RnineR or something. It's nice but expensive. At least they stuck with the older boxer set up.

They still run the old hardware store on the east side of the square. They are retiring and will be selling the store. If anyone is looking for a business opportunity in a great location let me know!

[N-m]

At the lodge.

[N-m]

Breakfast of champion riders everywhere!

[N-m]

This looks good and works better but lever throw is still way too much. I have yet to lock down the rear brake on this bike. I really need to get with someone that has more riding know how to critique me on braking technique. A riding school is a long way out.

[dcj13]

Originally Posted by N-m

This looks good and works better but lever throw is still way too much.

I don't what "too much" rear brake lever throw is, but (being a curious fellow) I just checked my pedal throw: 0.6 to 0.7 inch.

Measuring something like this is subjective. I measured from the inside front corner of the pedal and pressed pedal with hand until resistance was felt. My bike has the original rubber brake hose and I bled the brakes 22 months ago.

Concerning fuel economy, I usually get around 59 mpg, although I filled up yesterday and actually got 62.4 mpg (was about 90% freeway riding).

[atxninjette]

i got 67.xx on a 180 mile round trip freeway run yesterday. 100/80/16 front 130/8016 rear 15/45 sprocket set up . on the freeway speed was at 70-75 per speedometer. a few 85-95 bursts but not much

[csmith12]

Originally Posted by N-m

He already has big feet.

Gratz and Happy Birthday!

[N-m]

Thanks, buddy. I gotta get back on this ride report but school, Subarus and grandkids are taking all my time.

I need to do a RR here on my last ride. It was a harrowing experience that made me want to start heroin! wind on 840 south of Nashville and tornado weather. I dare you to tell me of a more interesting ride!

Don't worry. I will be getting the bike back out over the holidays since short runs will be the name of the game.

I still love the bike but have had thoughts of getting it ready to sell since I have to get the GS back up and renovated and need something with more leg room. 100 miles in the saddle of this one is making my lower legs go numb. It is a great town or trip bike but I need more leg room long term. I still dream of the 500 mile bike, only stopping when I want to. It has to exist.

[N-m]

I bought a lift for the two bikes. I like several different models but found this one for a good deal so I snatched it up. It is not mobile once the bike is mounted but takes up very little floor space and allows one to easily work anywhere around the bike.

http://lifts-and-stands.com/product/eazy-rizer-red/

[N-m]

Originally Posted by dcj13

I don't what "too much" rear brake lever throw is, but (being a curious fellow) I just checked my pedal throw: 0.6 to 0.7 inch.

Measuring something like this is subjective. I measured from the inside front corner of the pedal and pressed pedal with hand until resistance was felt. My bike has the original rubber brake hose and I bled the brakes 22 months ago.

Concerning fuel economy, I usually get around 59 mpg, although I filled up yesterday and actually got 62.4 mpg (was about 90% freeway riding).

I actually got those measurements but got busy and did not post the numbers. I will get those.

[MrAtom]

why do all your sodas look like that?

[N-m]

Originally Posted by MrAtom

why do all your sodas look like that?

If ever you venture from that area head east in I-20, take a left at Birmingham and head north until you see the Jack Daniel's Distillery sign. You have reached Heaven where we routinely dump over salted and expired peanuts into our cold drinks.

Please don't forget to like our FB page before you leave, "Cold Drinks and Peanuts."

Thanks.

[MrAtom]

That's super interesting. I've never heard of that over here in California I'll try it out of morbid curiosity.

[N-m]

Originally Posted by MrAtom

That's super interesting. I've never heard of that over here in California I'll try it out of morbid curiosity.

Well?

[MrAtom]

Not bad but not really good either. Of course, I'm not too into soda, anyway.

[N-m]

Originally Posted by MrAtom

Not bad but not really good either. Of course, I'm not too into soda, anyway.

Well, there's your problem. You were supposed to use coke.

[N-m]

Just over 7,000 miles and performed the first valve adjustment the bike may have ever seen. It was very easy but time consuming. It was definitely needed since a few were so tight they were below spec and one was over the spec. All are now near the upper limit of the specified range.

I highly recommend the procedure shown on ninja250faq. It makes the process simpler. The factory procedure did not line up the cam lobes in the expected positions. I don't know if that's a problem or not. I will have to dig into it.

Gas mileage has been just under 50 mpg and vibrations have been extreme once you get off the grips. The bike has been running well at any rpm, however. I am anxious to see whether the bike will smooth out and gas mileage improve. I would guess it has to get smoother due to the consistent adjustment of valves, but we shall see.

Some recommendations:

1. Go all the way. Have a plan to remove/unbolt everything in your way. Access is dramatically improved;
2. Do everything you can while it's down. Coolant is an extra five minutes, plugs likewise;
3. Have a torque wrench that delivers a low inch pound setting;
4. Be prepared to sync carbs after the valve adjustment.

[N-m]

I regularly work on panic braking and for good reason. Last week while doing a really hard brake during the rain and at a traffic light I was finally able to lock down the rear brake on slick pavement but was able to maintain the fish tailing by using my front brake at just the right amount to slow the bike quickly and control the descent. I became concerned that I may be too heavy on the rear brake though.

While braking this hard I noticed my low oil light comes on for a fleeting moment when I do this. I found a suggestion on ninja250faq to run a slightly higher oil level and decided to try it.

While it was not time mileage wise to change the oil I decided to do it anyway since the bike sat most of the winter, I wanted to start with fresh oil, and I like wrenching on my bikes.

Once the oil was changed I added new oil until the meniscus was barely visible at the top of the sight glass whereas I was running the meniscus at the half way or just below half way point.

This seems to have eliminated the "problem." I will keep an eye on it. The saga associated with learning to work the brakes even better continues.

[N-m]

At some point this has to come apart. Nose dive, noise and a "hell on the old kidneys after that asphalt to concrete at the bridge transition" make me wonder if any fluid, lubrication or proper adjustment is present.

Perfect time to do the chain and sprockets will be when I have that rear end apart. It is time.

[crazymadbastard]

Like me, you are a beefy dude.These bikes are sprung for little Asians around 140lbs.
You may want to try a higher viscosity oil and upgrade the front fork springs to match your weight. . Also consider upgrading to a gsxr 2009 rear shock- pretty straight forward mods.

[agentbad]

Originally Posted by crazymadbastard

Like me, you are a beefy dude.These bikes are sprung for little Asians around 140lbs.
You may want to try a higher viscosity oil and upgrade the front fork springs to match your weight. . Also consider upgrading to a gsxr 2009 rear shock- pretty straight forward mods.

The gsxr 2009 rear shock is a straight forward mod?

[crazymadbastard]

Originally Posted by agentbad

The gsxr 2009 rear shock is a straight forward mod?

Yep!
https://www.ninjette.org/forums/show...ght=2009+shock

[N-m]

Originally Posted by crazymadbastard

Like me, you are a beefy dude.These bikes are sprung for little Asians around 140lbs.
You may want to try a higher viscosity oil and upgrade the front fork springs to match your weight. . Also consider upgrading to a gsxr 2009 rear shock- pretty straight forward mods.

I could do that mod but would rather stay factory in case the next rider that comes along is 140. The first item for rear suspension is to tear into it and see what I have. I amp sure there is corrosion that has to be addressed.

Cost of the shock? More than $100 and I buy a seat pad at Wally World. Seriously.