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Old August 1st, 2013, 07:04 AM   #41
caps
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I don't care for the header, but it looks pretty good overall.
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Old August 1st, 2013, 09:42 AM   #42
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you should re stretch your seat, idk if you took the old leather off or not it looks like you didnt. but if you did you put the new stuff on way too lose, if you stretch the holy mess out of it after heating it you can make that seat look brand new.
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Old August 1st, 2013, 02:32 PM   #43
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Quote:
Originally Posted by caps View Post
I don't care for the header, but it looks pretty good overall.
Thanks. I planned on making a new header so that one was supposed to be for a month or two at most. I really wanted to use the yoshi muffler lol. But it'll get replaced... soon.

Quote:
Originally Posted by 7oxSin View Post
you should re stretch your seat, idk if you took the old leather off or not it looks like you didnt. but if you did you put the new stuff on way too lose, if you stretch the holy mess out of it after heating it you can make that seat look brand new.
That picture is the day after I did it. It looked fine beforehand, but after being in the sun, the new material stretched out more, so I did go back and redo it. Here's a more recent picture:

Quote:
The crappy fix I did to the foam is the only thing that bugs me. But, like the header, the seat will also be replaced.
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Old August 1st, 2013, 09:39 PM   #44
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Pssssttt check out http://www.customfighters.com/forums/ as that is the style of bike you have gone with.



Also i would drop the rear brake res to be right on top of the master...

If you want to go ALL out, Start chopping the mounts on the frame.... but that is a MAJOR point of no return.... If not that, make a little piece that covers the fule tank fearing tab, and blends with the line on the seat, Just to smooth out the lines.

Less major, Chop the front fender a little bit to better match the shape of the rear fender.

And lastly, make a muffler hanger, so you can ditch the Passenger peg holders that way a metric ton.

Great work and keep it up!

-levi

p.s. if you havent yet, look into getting work done on the front fork... Springs + re tune the damping rod is about $200-250 + shipping one way
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Old August 2nd, 2013, 01:30 AM   #45
infinitewhiskey
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Originally Posted by saber63 View Post
Pssssttt check out http://www.customfighters.com/forums/ as that is the style of bike you have gone with.



Also i would drop the rear brake res to be right on top of the master...

If you want to go ALL out, Start chopping the mounts on the frame.... but that is a MAJOR point of no return.... If not that, make a little piece that covers the fule tank fearing tab, and blends with the line on the seat, Just to smooth out the lines.

Less major, Chop the front fender a little bit to better match the shape of the rear fender.

And lastly, make a muffler hanger, so you can ditch the Passenger peg holders that way a metric ton.

Great work and keep it up!

-levi

p.s. if you havent yet, look into getting work done on the front fork... Springs + re tune the damping rod is about $200-250 + shipping one way
Thanks, man!

And yup, I lurk on there a lot. Got the inspiration for the flask reservoir from there. I've already planned how I wanna do everything you mentioned.

I'm lowering the brake res and possibly replacing it whenever I either paint my rearsets, replace them with the ones from EX250J's. I also want them pointed downward instead of parallel to the ground because it's a lot more comfortable shifting/braking. I'll probably fab up a set of my own rearset adjusters and sell the ones I bought.

I am planning to cut off the mounts on the frame but my main issue with it is that I'm too lazy to take everything apart for the millionth time to get the frame repainted since I'm horrible at spot repair. I also want to grind the part of the tank with the tiny hole down so that it's follows the tank. But I don't want to have the powder coat off on that side. Also planning to cut that mounting tab off on one side. I might hang something off of it on the other side, but I'm iffy about that.

I'm gonna replace the Yoshi can with something cafe-y after I weld up new headers. Or maybe a Toce can. So at that point I'll take off the passenger peg mount, and cut off the mounts for those.

As for the front suspension and fender, I've already got plans for that. It'll be a surprise!
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Old October 9th, 2013, 12:25 PM   #46
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Just a little update on how the projects going since the last update:

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Old October 9th, 2013, 01:34 PM   #47
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BOOOOOoooooooo

Any plans? repair? Cut and splice off a totalled frame? Or make a plate?

OR going to **** can the whole deal?

-Levi
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Old October 9th, 2013, 02:13 PM   #48
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Old October 13th, 2013, 07:33 AM   #49
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Bring it by my house I have a big welder. With no welder may stick a metal bar behind and drill tap.
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Old October 13th, 2013, 07:54 AM   #50
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Quote:
Originally Posted by infinitewhiskey View Post
Just a little update on how the projects going since the last update:

There's also another thread going with a similar problem (in addition to the one cuong-nutz posted).

From the looks of it, the nut on the back is just tacked in a couple spots around the edge.

You could make a plate and reinforce it on the backside as others have suggested, but I think if you can get it to fit back properly a good welder could run a bead completely around the perimeter on the frontside that wouldn't fail in the same way again.
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Old October 13th, 2013, 01:08 PM   #51
infinitewhiskey
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I got it fixed the next day. Big shout out to Gene and Dylan at Vocademy for the help. If you're in Southern California, check them out!!


Since the sheet metal failed and not the nuts, we decided to cut out a plate with a similar thickness to the nuts, tap it, and weld it on top of where the original mounting position is. Now, the left rearset sticks out about a quarter inch. It's somewhat off centered, but I can't feel it. However I can feel the 1/4" change though.

Grounded down and removed paint:



Weld spatter got stuck in inside the threading and a bolt had to be drilled out. Re-tap after welding, just in case! Had to run down to home depot about 20 minutes before closing, and this just happened to be the ones I needed. Also I know zinc bolts are **** but this was the only alternative at the time. I've orderd higher grade bolts from McMaster already.


Forgot to take a pic of the plate, but here it is all welded on:


Final product:
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Old May 27th, 2014, 02:55 PM   #52
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what stands are those? I'm looking into getting some so I can do proper maintenance on my bike(s) and I don't really have a ton of cash for it
That front triple tree stand is known for failing where the arm attaches and lowering/dropping the bike. They haven't sold it in over 10 years but they were happy to replace mine when I complained and the modern one is so beefy that there is no way that will ever happen again!

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did you just cut off the header and have it going through the balance pipe?
...and then sold it to a member right over the border?
https://www.ninjette.org/forums/showthread.php?t=146570



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Old June 1st, 2014, 11:22 PM   #53
infinitewhiskey
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...nd then sold it to a member right over the border?
https://www.ninjette.org/forums/showthread.php?t=146570


Shhhh, it's "temporary!"
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Old June 3rd, 2014, 01:37 AM   #54
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such a really good looking bike, really making me consider goin the "street fighter" look. I used to live in the 909 for a long long time. I miss it too lol.

edit: ignore my location. that's where I lived before, now I'm in the 619
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