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Old May 1st, 2014, 05:09 PM   #1
s3an78
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Angry petcock leaking

Im new here and i have a few questions im hoping you guys can help with. This petcock started leaking after sitting over winter. I opened it and checked the gaskets and they all look fine, the spring looked weak so i put a stronger one then no gas would flow and bike wouldnt start. So back to old spring now it leaks again. The gaskets alone are like 45 bucks but a new petcock is like 80? even on ebay?? Would a petcock from a new gen 250 work on my 94 or should i just bite the bullet and get the new oem one for 80 buck? Any sellers on here by chance?
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Old May 1st, 2014, 05:16 PM   #2
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Check the similar threads that now show at the bottom of this page; the last two seem on point for this.
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Old May 1st, 2014, 05:17 PM   #3
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Old May 1st, 2014, 05:17 PM   #4
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stretch the stock spring and call me in the morning. This will give it more push.
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Old May 1st, 2014, 05:31 PM   #5
s3an78
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thanks for the replies i will check those threads. but does any1 know if a petcock off a 08+ will fit with a little extra line added?
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Old May 1st, 2014, 05:57 PM   #6
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Originally Posted by s3an78 View Post
........This petcock started leaking after sitting over winter...........
Where is it leaking from?
In what position is leaking?

After a while in contact with gasoline it may stop leaking.
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Old May 2nd, 2014, 07:29 AM   #7
s3an78
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it leaks in all positions, it seems to be around where the two metal pieces come together
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Old May 2nd, 2014, 10:17 AM   #8
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Rebuild parts are cheap and commonly available from places like http://www.ronayers.com and http://www.bikebandit.com . If it's flowing fuel in the OFF position or when the engine isn't running then you need a new diaphragm, and if it's leaking externally you need a new gasket. It's super easy to rebuild one of these, basically just take it apart, clean the pieces, put the new parts in, and reassemble. The ones from later model bikes won't work as they've got the mechanism for the fuel level gauge so the mounting pattern is different.
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Old May 3rd, 2014, 06:30 AM   #9
s3an78
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would this one work? looks like it has a vacuum and gas hose
http://pages.ebay.com/motors/link/?n...389048&alt=web
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Old May 3rd, 2014, 07:50 AM   #10
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would this one work? looks like it has a vacuum and gas hose
http://pages.ebay.com/motors/link/?n...389048&alt=web
It is impossible to respond your question because that depends on the shape of the base and the holes for the bolts matching or not the tank of your bike.

Please read this article:
http://faq.ninja250.org/wiki/Rebuild...tcock/fuel_tap



As you see, the petcock can only leak in three ways:
1) Around the handle: When the big O-ring has shrunk.
2) Down into the carbs: When the disc-shaped rubber piece has shrunk and/or the spring washer is not putting enough pressure on it.
3) Through a perforated vacuum diaphragm.

If the oval O-ring at the base of the tank has shrunk, fuel could cover the whole petcock, misleading you to think that the leak is originated in the petcock itself.

The vacuum operated valve attached to the diaphragm fails (allows flow of gas into the carbs when the engine is off) when the little O-ring has shrunk and/or the spring is not putting enough pressure on it.

The metal parts never wear out, reason for which you only need to buy the mentioned rubber parts to repair the petcock, ......... or soaking the whole thing in gasoline until the those dried parts (due to a long storage with empty tank) swell back to normal.
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Old August 2nd, 2014, 05:30 AM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Motofool View Post
It is impossible to respond your question because that depends on the shape of the base and the holes for the bolts matching or not the tank of your bike.

Please read this article:
http://faq.ninja250.org/wiki/Rebuild...tcock/fuel_tap



As you see, the petcock can only leak in three ways:
1) Around the handle: When the big O-ring has shrunk.
2) Down into the carbs: When the disc-shaped rubber piece has shrunk and/or the spring washer is not putting enough pressure on it.
3) Through a perforated vacuum diaphragm.

If the oval O-ring at the base of the tank has shrunk, fuel could cover the whole petcock, misleading you to think that the leak is originated in the petcock itself.

The vacuum operated valve attached to the diaphragm fails (allows flow of gas into the carbs when the engine is off) when the little O-ring has shrunk and/or the spring is not putting enough pressure on it.

The metal parts never wear out, reason for which you only need to buy the mentioned rubber parts to repair the petcock, ......... or soaking the whole thing in gasoline until the those dried parts (due to a long storage with empty tank) swell back to normal.
Is the spring you refer to on the right side of the image, above the word automatic?
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Old August 2nd, 2014, 05:33 AM   #12
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Has anyone tried to take one of these apart, clean it and then reassemble making certain everything was properly torqued?

I think this is the course I will take since I am going to have to tear into it eventually.

BTW, a quick search revealed a new OEM petcock could be found for just under $60.00 + shipping. According to the FAQ link the rebuild kit is $50.00 + shipping. I don't see the sense in moving forward with a full rebuild if that is the necessary route.
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Old August 2nd, 2014, 04:33 PM   #13
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Is the spring you refer to on the right side of the image, above the word automatic?
Yes.

Don't hesitate about taking it apart; it is very simple.
All you need is a repair kit which contains all the soft parts.
Nothing is torque-critical.
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Old August 4th, 2014, 06:22 AM   #14
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I just bought a new one for 65 bucks. The nipple on the old one had come out so after jamming it back on there I figured a new one would be the better buy to stop the leak.
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Old August 17th, 2014, 08:16 PM   #15
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Partszilla

I have been buying all of my parts from www.partzilla.com and the are all OEM parts. I just got a fuel tap or petcock for under $60. I like them so far. They have saved me tons of cash.
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Old August 18th, 2014, 06:32 AM   #16
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I bought one of these kits
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/KAWASAKI-G...item3f368a99f7
Basically I wanted the diaphragm which had a tiny tear and that fitted fine
but the base gasket was different,
The original '91 plastic washers crumbled and the new ones fitted fine

One problem is that the "vacuum only" taps you can prime by sucking on the vacuum line but it takes very little suction to open the valve. If you suck hard you can tear the diaphragm.
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