New engine installed... no signs of life. I'm stuck.

[headshrink]

After 2 years of sitting in pieces, I finally have my bike back together. I installed a "new" engine from a local recycler, which supposedly has only 1,150 miles on it. I just tried to start it for the first time, and it was completely dead. Pressing the starter does nothing.

I've kept the old battery on a tender, and after disconnecting it from the charger still reads 12.5V the morning after.

If I turn the key on and let it sit for a minute, the oil light will slowly start to illuminate, although it doesn't get bright. Initially there's nothing.... so it's like it slowly builds up power.

The voltage reading on the battery with the key off is 12.5V, and when I turn it on it drops to ~5.5V, but returns again to 12.5V when the key is turned off.

All the fuses look good.

I'm stuck. What do I do next?


EDIT: FIXED! (It was a dead battery)

[taz]

i would say the battery is shot get a new one. if you put a draw on the battery like you said, and it dramaticly drops like you said they are more than likely dead. just get a new one.

[crazymadbastard]

Sounds like the battery is toast. Double check the grounds first-
try boosting it with a car- make sure the car is OFF when jumping it.

[headshrink]

Thank you!
I just confirmed this buy putting in a battery from my other bike. Also, I just read in the SM that you don't want to be below 12.8V.

Bike is cranking now.

[csmith12]

[allanoue]

Happy endings

[headshrink]

Originally Posted by csmith12

I know... I've been around too long to let a dead battery stump me. Fortunately it was solved quickly too.

[g21-30]

So, did the engine start?

[crazymadbastard]

Originally Posted by g21-30

So, did the engine start?

[headshrink]

Originally Posted by g21-30

So, did the engine start?

Sorry I missed the notification earlier. Yes, it started right up! Thanks for asking.

Now I start the hell that is carb tuning. My plan is to sell the Area P, so I'm returning the bike to mostly stock, so it shouldn't be too hard. BUT, I have a way of making tuning more complicated. My theory is the last engine died a premature death at ~20K miles due to a perpetual lean spot that cooked the valves/seats, and the really rich spot didn't help keep it clean at all.

Those who have been around a number of years MAY remember the threads where I tore that one down and the valves & seats were a total loss (actually my second engine). Technically they could have been machined, but a) I don't know where to begin looking for a place to do that, b) a new/used ebay head complete with valves priced cheaper than all the little parts I would need buy, and c) it sure is easier. There were other issues, like a scored cylinder wall, and I just got over my head when I decided to tear the ENTIRE engine down. I decided it was time for a new bike, and the 250 sat for 2 years with boxes of engine parts from 2 1/2 engines.... I tried to be organized, but there was only so much I could do.

This time going with a new/used engine was the easiest, and ultimately cheapest option, since I would have to still spend hundreds in parts (rings, gaskets, etc.) attempting to reassemble the mix of parts, with no guarantee. I can live with this, and I can now pull from the other engines for parts. Oh, and I'm not the one who paid for the engine... my brother did, and in return I'm giving him the bike.