March 14th, 2016, 02:34 PM | #1 |
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Fuel leaking from pod filter
Engine cranks, lights work, everything seems to be in order except: no start.
It could be spark plugs. It could just need starting fluid. Either way, I came home to a smell of gas and a smallish puddle of gas underneath the bike. The gas was tinted red from the k&n buttjuice. The bottom of the pod filter is wet from gas. Did I achieved flood?
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March 14th, 2016, 02:41 PM | #2 |
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1. Your petcock is leaking
2. Float valve isn't sealing in one or both carbs Time to rebuild both of the above items so they work properly. Check your oil, it will probably smell like gas and be "overfilled" from the gas running into the combustion chamber and then past the rings. If so, it will need an oil change also.
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March 14th, 2016, 02:55 PM | #3 |
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Ah makes sense because I removed the stock fuel filter over the weekend.
Will need to see about the carb rebuild set. Thank you sir.
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"Brah, you can't be looking like that on a 250, brah. You gotta mod a 250, brah. It's like the hachi-roku of bikes." |
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March 14th, 2016, 05:23 PM | #4 |
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Got home. Turned key, no start. Doesn't even crank over now. I'm assuming flood?
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"Brah, you can't be looking like that on a 250, brah. You gotta mod a 250, brah. It's like the hachi-roku of bikes." |
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March 14th, 2016, 05:36 PM | #5 | |
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Quote:
Might be dead battery. Check it with a voltmeter. Personally, I wouldn't try and start it until the float valve/petcock issue is resolved and the crankcase checked for fuel.
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March 14th, 2016, 05:40 PM | #6 | |
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Quote:
Because you have been leaking fuel into the carb, it may have worked its way into the cylinder and is "hydo-locking" the engine. As noted - check your oil level to see if it has gotten past the rings and into the crankcase. The safest next step, because you said it will not turn over, is to remove the spark plugs and crank the engine over. That will shoot out any gas that happens to be sitting in the cylinders - so stand back. I would also check the battery voltage. If it's way down (below 12.3V or so), or even if it's not, it may drop off to nothing when under load (hitting the button). Unless you have confirmed there is no raw fuel sitting in the cylinder I wouldn't try to start it. You can do damage if you were to force it to turn over, like trying to bump start it or possibly even jumping with a large/strong battery. |
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March 14th, 2016, 05:41 PM | #7 |
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Name: Winston
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Dead battery
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March 14th, 2016, 06:12 PM | #8 | |
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Everyone thx for suggestions.
I will try the below method to clear the gas from cylinders. Side note: spoke too soon, it does crank over now. Just won't start. This will give me reason to replace the plugs. NGK or Denso? Quote:
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March 14th, 2016, 06:18 PM | #9 |
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NGK.
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March 14th, 2016, 07:04 PM | #10 |
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You need to deal with the petcock, replace it, and your float needle valves, otherwise it will happen again, and possibly damage the motor.
https://www.ninjette.org/forums/showthread.php?t=215441
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March 14th, 2016, 08:00 PM | #11 | |
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Quote:
As others have noted - charge the battery (it should hold 12.7V or more after sitting overnight) and buy NGK plugs. Gas dripping past the petcock can do all sorts of damage, so definitely get that resolved as soon as possible. Changing the oil is a good idea (after resolving the problem) if there's any indication of gas getting into the oil. |
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March 15th, 2016, 09:33 AM | #12 | |
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Quote:
The petcock actually felt dry. The majority of the spill looked like it came from the air filter. Did the petcock leak fuel INTO the carbs? Also, I hooked up a vacuum from the petcock (the nipple next to the fuel line) to the carb (inlet close to the choke). Do you think that might have something to do with it?
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March 15th, 2016, 09:41 AM | #13 |
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Take the carbs apart, and check that the float level is set properly. While the carbs are apart give them a good cleaning.
You either have a bad battery, starter, blown fuse, or hydrolocked the engine. Try turning the engine over with both plugs out, if it does turn over, try to blow as much gas out as you can. If it doesn't turn over, try to turn the engine over with a ratchet and socket on the flywheel.
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March 15th, 2016, 09:42 AM | #14 | |
in your machine
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The petcock is vacuum type, so if the engine is off, no vacuum, then the petcock shouldn't allow fuel thru, in other words you need to replace it.
Also if the petcock is leaking the float needles shouldn't allow any more fuel to pass once the fuel bowls are full, either your float valves are dirty, and/or needs to be replaced, they are consumable parts, they don't last forever. Personally replace the petcock, and float needle valves, and set the float height to proper height. It's not cost effective to rebuild the peacock, here's my write-up on the subject. Quote:
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March 19th, 2016, 11:13 AM | #15 |
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Would any of this be affected if the vacuum hose were incorrect? I noticed the vacuum line at the petcock was not connected to the right hose.
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"Brah, you can't be looking like that on a 250, brah. You gotta mod a 250, brah. It's like the hachi-roku of bikes." |
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March 19th, 2016, 01:30 PM | #16 |
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the unchecked fuel flow within the carbs is specifically overspilling via the main mixing chamber...flowing both:
forward to the intake tract , chamber and crankcase backwards, simultaneously spilling via the overfilled air correction jet ports.... thus why fuel is exiting the pods as well. Yup, OP has some work to do. To answer your above question...an operational petcock should block the flow of fuel with engine at rest. Think liquid filled straw with thumb over the end of straw....your thumb is the petcock. |
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March 21st, 2016, 06:07 AM | #17 |
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Well, bike is apart for now. Will order new petcock soon.
@ducatiman, I have to hit you up for a carb rebuild soon. I also have some main jets to send with it.
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"Brah, you can't be looking like that on a 250, brah. You gotta mod a 250, brah. It's like the hachi-roku of bikes." |
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March 21st, 2016, 01:40 PM | #18 |
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^ I'm at your service, UFO.
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