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Old May 17th, 2016, 11:41 AM   #1
LoganCormier
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How to add chain links?

I got a rear tire with an aspect ratio 20 above normal and now it won't quite fit, but there's enough room on the chain tensioner so now I need a longer chain. Is there anything wrong with that and if not what's the best way to go about adding a few links?
Thanks
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Old May 17th, 2016, 12:04 PM   #2
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Googlfu (actually; YouTubefu) "How to add chain links"
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Old May 17th, 2016, 12:07 PM   #3
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You'll need another master link and a section of chain.

The best way? Use the proper size rear tire.

The second best way? Buy a longer chain and cut it down to the proper size.

Third best way? Add another master link and a section of chain.

Given that it's probably an o-ring chain, you'll have to order a short section of chain and a master link anyway. May as well do it right and just get a longer chain.
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Old May 17th, 2016, 02:07 PM   #4
LoganCormier
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So if I got the measurements for how long of a chain should work to get the tire to sit right, could I just stop at a motorcycle shop and find one/have one done on the spot or is there a different place I would have to go?
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Old May 17th, 2016, 02:26 PM   #5
LoganCormier
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Would it be better to just get a new smaller rear sprocket and keep the chain I have now?
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Old May 17th, 2016, 02:31 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LoganCormier View Post
Would it be better to just get a new smaller rear sprocket and keep the chain I have now?
No. You're already changing the gearing by using a larger rear tire. Installing a smaller rear sprocket will change it even more.
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Old May 17th, 2016, 02:32 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LoganCormier View Post
Would it be better to just get a new smaller rear sprocket and keep the chain I have now?
The best answers are in post #3
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Old May 17th, 2016, 02:59 PM   #8
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worst answer: grind away at swing arm to make it fit.
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Old May 17th, 2016, 03:12 PM   #9
LoganCormier
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I don't have any good tools for changing it myself, though, and I need it done soon. Can I not just buy a chain the right length and throw it on? All the tutorials I'm seeing involve cutting it and linking it.
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Old May 17th, 2016, 03:44 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LoganCormier View Post
I don't have any good tools for changing it myself, though, and I need it done soon. Can I not just buy a chain the right length and throw it on? All the tutorials I'm seeing involve cutting it and linking it.
The short answer is no.
How many links do you need? It's not likely you'll be able to buy just a link or three and a couple of quick master links.

Please don't take this as in any way a criticism but I'm guessing you do not have a lot of experience working on your bike. Motorcycle chains can do horrible damage if they break or the master link comes undone. Unless you can find someone with the proper experience to work with you and ensure its done correctly; it may be best to get your local shop to do the chain.

One other point: if you need to add links so the tire can fit: will there be enough clearance if your suspension bottoms out? It could be one heck of a surprise or worse! What tire and size is it exactly?
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Old May 17th, 2016, 03:46 PM   #11
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get a tire that is the correct size or you'll change the steering geometry (the direction you're going leads to twitchier steering and higher chance of tank slapper)
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Old May 17th, 2016, 06:27 PM   #12
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Quote:
How many links do you need?
I just need about 4 inches worth, haven't done measurements exactly yet. It can technically sit far enough back to barely not rub the swingarm but the chain is way too tight then.

Quote:
Please don't take this as in any way a criticism but I'm guessing you do not have a lot of experience working on your bike.
Damn straight.

Quote:
What tire and size is it exactly?
Shinko R230 130/90-17


Quote:
get a tire that is the correct size or you'll change the steering geometry (the direction you're going leads to twitchier steering and higher chance of tank slapper)
I know bike safety is paramount but is it that dangerous? I really need to have it running ASAP for work.


Thanks for the responses, guys.
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Old May 17th, 2016, 06:47 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LoganCormier View Post
........I know bike safety is paramount but is it that dangerous? I really need to have it running ASAP for work........
Yes, it is dangerous if you don't do it correctly.
Those sealed master links tend to get loose at the worst moment, unless they are the riveted type (for which you need a relatively expensive tool).

Less dangerous it would be a non-sealed (no o-ring or x-ring) chain of proper length, or longer to be cut off by you, with a non-sealed master link.
Such chain is less expensive than a sealed type, and with proper lubrication will live as long as the new rear tire.

Please, take a look at this:
https://www.ninjette.org/forums/showthread.php?t=133019
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Old May 17th, 2016, 07:10 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Motofool View Post
Yes, it is dangerous if you don't do it correctly.
Those sealed master links tend to get loose at the worst moment, unless they are the riveted type (for which you need a relatively expensive tool).

Less dangerous it would be a non-sealed (no o-ring or x-ring) chain of proper length, or longer to be cut off by you, with a non-sealed master link.
Such chain is less expensive than a sealed type, and with proper lubrication will live as long as the new rear tire.

Please, take a look at this:
https://www.ninjette.org/forums/showthread.php?t=133019
Good to know. Aren't you supposed to use an o-ring chain for the 250r, though?
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Old May 17th, 2016, 07:12 PM   #15
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Originally Posted by LoganCormier View Post
Good to know. Aren't you supposed to use an o-ring chain for the 250r, though?
No, any chain of that size (520) will perfectly work:

http://faq.ninja250.org/wiki/Final_Drive

Number 5 represents the length of a link from pin to pin (5/8"), and the number 2 is the width of the link (2/8" or 1/4").

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Old May 17th, 2016, 07:27 PM   #16
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Good info!

What does the "0" represent?
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Old May 17th, 2016, 07:29 PM   #17
LoganCormier
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Motofool View Post
No, any chain of that size (520) will perfectly work:

http://faq.ninja250.org/wiki/Final_Drive

Number 5 represents the length of a link from pin to pin (5/8"), and the number 2 is the width of the link (2/8" or 1/4").

Alright, cool. Glad I can go for a cheaper chain. Thanks for the info.
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Old May 17th, 2016, 07:49 PM   #18
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Good info!

What does the "0" represent?


Please, see table 1.9 in this link:
http://chain-guide.com/applications/...cle-chain.html
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Old May 18th, 2016, 07:20 AM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LoganCormier View Post
I don't have any good tools for changing it myself, though, and I need it done soon. Can I not just buy a chain the right length and throw it on? All the tutorials I'm seeing involve cutting it and linking it.
To put on a full loop of chain, you need to remove the swingarm from the frame. It can be done, but it's more labor to do so. If you don't have a centerstand and you're removing the swingarm, even just supporting the bike while you do the work becomes an issue.


Quote:
Originally Posted by LoganCormier View Post
Shinko R230 130/90-17
FYI, a 130/90 has a 26mm larger sidewall than a 130/70. That's over a full inch extra on the radius of the tire. It's putting it that much closer to the swingarm and the undertail. I don't think I've heard of anyone trying to switch to this size.
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