March 9th, 2016, 04:22 AM | #1 |
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Does the quality of the sockets you use matter?
I'm in the market for a new socket set. I know the quality of the socket wrench itself matters, as I've broken terrible ones before, but if I get a Pittsburgh brand socket set from Harbor Freight and buy a quality wrench, am I fine? Have any of you ever broken a socket or had a shoddy socket mess up a project? Any recommendations for a good set?
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March 9th, 2016, 05:01 AM | #2 |
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I actually use a socket set (3/8 and 1/2"h from harbor freight, and a "pro" ratchet from there as well.
And Allen wrenches and impact sockets. Their tools are much better than they used to be, especially when you don't buy the super cheap crap from them.
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March 9th, 2016, 06:08 AM | #3 |
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I have mainly craftsman. Buy sets on sale for $15 including ratchet. Affordable when on sale.
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March 9th, 2016, 06:12 AM | #4 |
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Context: I'm a typical amateur DIY mechanic so my tools don't get a heck of a lot of use. You'd likely get a different answer from a professional mechanic who pounds on his tools all day, every day.
While I've never broken a socket or had a crappy one mess something up, when you have a super-cheap socket you really can tell. Put it this way: Take a look at the crescent wrench that came in your bike's tool kit. That's one really cheap POS. Now go to your friendly neighborhood home improvement store and check out a really nice one. No comparison at all. I've had cheap-o sockets that were hard to pull off the ratchet, and 12-pointers that were a little iffy in terms of fit and finish. The plating on cheaper sockets sometimes flakes off and then you've got rust. My main socket set, which I've used for about 15 years or so, is a post-Cinese-crap Craftsman collection. (Craftsman used to be made in the U.S. and were very good... not any more.) They've worked fine, but the markings on them are so poorly stamped that sometimes it can be tough to see which socket I'm grabbing. Were it me, I'd trust HF but not the super-cheap ones. Rule of thumb: Buy quality. Buy it once, and be done with it. I have tools I've used regularly for 30+ years. How do you tell good from crap? Go to HF and find the cheapest set, then compare side-by-side with the most expensive and take a really close look. It'll be obvious PS: 6-point is better than 12-point. Less likely to round off the nut. I never use the 12-point sockets that came with my set.
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March 9th, 2016, 07:14 AM | #5 |
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To me, yes. Quality sockets are less likely to strip a bolt, and they are also thinner. Every now and then I find myself in a situation where my thin Mac or Snapon sockets work, but a cheapo craftsman socket that my friends have doesn't fit. (Like when torquing down the nut next to the power valve on the jug of my friends cr125).
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March 9th, 2016, 07:23 AM | #6 |
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Yes, there are tangible qualities to higher end tools. The bigger question to ask yourself is does it make financial sense to purchase them. I mean lets be honest, most people can use HF or no-name stuff and won't put enough use in them for it to matter. Others will destroy a cheap set in no time.
I have broken everything: snap on, mac, matco, proto, craftsman, stanely, hf at some point or another. Although the cheaper stuff tends to give up easier. I have a pretty decent tool collection and most of it is craftsman. This decision was made mostly due to there being a trade in location (Sears) close by and wanting that accessibility. Now I think Husky at Home Depot does on site exchanges and Lowes does with their house brand as well.
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March 9th, 2016, 07:28 AM | #7 |
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Quality over quantity!!! I have broken a socket before and many other tools as well. Nothing beats a good set. I'm probably your average user but my brother would be an everyday user and he grabs some things from HF and the tractor supply. Just looking and feeling a tool will tell you a lot about how it will hold up, ****** construction shows.
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March 9th, 2016, 07:35 AM | #8 |
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I have a tool box full of Craftsman tools that I have had for a long time now. 20+ years. I've broken maybe 1 or 2 sockets and a ratchet. Of course, that was before I fully understood that there is a proper tool for every job. I probably turn more wrenches than a few other folks, so quality matters to me.
That said, I do have some HF tools. They are things that I don't use very often, maybe 1-2 times a year. I will comment that the HF ratchets are crap, at least the one that I had previously. It worked fine at first, then the ratchet mechanism stopped holding. Although, I do take my Craftsman ratchets apart once every few years and clean and grease them so....YMMV. I would buy a good Craftsman 150 piece kit over HF stuff any day.
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March 9th, 2016, 09:07 AM | #9 |
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I have no idea how you would breaker a Mac ratchet. I had a 3/8" Mac ratchet with a 24" cheater bar on it on a lug but that was frozen. I jumped up and down on the cheater bar, and it got the but off, I still use the ratchet to this day.
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March 9th, 2016, 09:33 AM | #10 |
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Words to live by... You're only as good as your tools.
Try for yourself. Borrow a really nice snapon ratchet and use it for a simple job like an oil change, then grab your craftsman to do the same job next time. It's like fine wine vs box wine. Sure they taste similar but finish very differently. As far as sockets specifically, there is really only one real rule. Use a 6 point if possible. A low quality 6 point will grab a bolt better than a expensive 12 point any day. The more surface area the socket has against the bolt, the less chance to strip it. Past that, it's about the strength of the bolt and socket. Which is going to fail first?
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March 9th, 2016, 09:41 AM | #11 |
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Work on bigger stuff... Semi's and bulldozers. Just like cars and such, they put bolts in some of the darnest places that take some serious torque to remove. A 4ft breaker bar on a 3/4 ratchet will fail when you put 2tons of force against it (via floor jack) to break loose an old crusty bolt from a case cover on a CAT D11. Stuff breaks , you buy another or get it replaced under the lifetime warranty.
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March 9th, 2016, 09:43 AM | #12 |
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I would say yes - the quality of both sockets and wrenches matter.
I worked on cars for a living for many years, and have thousands in SnapOn, Mac, and Matco tools, but I would say they are not necessary for the casual mechanic or enthusiast. Generally I've found that Craftsman tools have been a good compromise between cost and quality, though lately some of the tools are being produced off-shore. It seemed to differ, even between tools of the same type (say ratchets) so you need to look closely. There may be "promotional" tools or tool sets sold at other retailers that are not the exact same as what you get when you purchase individual tools directly from Sears. |
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March 9th, 2016, 09:44 AM | #13 | |
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March 9th, 2016, 09:54 AM | #14 | |
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It's holding water now though. In a few years, I will have me a really nice pond full of southern cat. That will be turned into this
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March 9th, 2016, 09:56 AM | #15 |
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March 9th, 2016, 10:24 AM | #16 | |
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March 9th, 2016, 10:43 AM | #17 |
The Corner Whisperer
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Let's get this back on track a bit, sorry. lol
http://www.amazon.com/Craftsman-Mech...tsman+tool+set There are some good deals on amazon and some really, really, good deals on the 230pc sets. Steer clear of the craftsman evolv sets that are cheaper. They do not have the lifetime warranty.
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March 9th, 2016, 12:47 PM | #18 | |
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Quote:
All I found was "Manufactured with Craftsman quality and durability" - which makes me think not. |
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March 9th, 2016, 12:58 PM | #19 |
Vintage Screwball
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Craftsman stopped manufacturing in the US years ago, along with most other companies.
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March 9th, 2016, 01:03 PM | #20 | |
Rev Limiter
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Quote:
It's been a while since I purchased any Craftsman tools, but at that time I noticed both U.S. and Chinese products (of the same type) on the shelf. Must have just caught the end of the good stuff. |
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March 9th, 2016, 01:05 PM | #21 | |
Vintage Screwball
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Quote:
EDIT: Looks like Fall of 2013 was the last of the USA made Craftsman tools. All China now, except for the Industrial line. Those are Made in USA, supposedly.
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March 9th, 2016, 01:10 PM | #22 | |
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Quote:
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March 9th, 2016, 01:16 PM | #23 |
The Corner Whisperer
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It's unlikely they are USA made, but from my research and abuse that I put my set though, it don't really matter much as far as quality at that price point. Somewhere around 2010, much of the craftsman line was moved out overseas production lines but still must pass the MADE in the USA quality standards. If you are a professional, then you will notice the difference, otherwise not so much. Heck, even some snap-on stuff is made in China. Meh... If you insist on USA made tools, then you might want to consider alternate brands or shopping yard sales for old tools. Old school USA tools had it stamped right into the metal.
EDIT: The "Profession Line" is being phased out. Nice tip on the K-Mart buy, sadly all the K-Marts around here closed down. :\
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March 9th, 2016, 01:41 PM | #24 |
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Ive got a bunch of old snap-on tools that are at minimum a decade older than I am. By far better than anything else I have. You can REALLY tell the differences with extensions, and box end wrenches. Cheap extensions flex and twist (and snap) easily, even without using a cheater bar. And on the open end of box end wrenches the cheaper ones you can SEE them flexing open, usually just before it rounds off the nut or bolt... Same thing happens with the sockets, The flats aren't machined to a tight enough spec and the metal is sub-stnadard so it flexes and slips. When a socket slips on to a nut and grips solid like a wrist-pin in a connecting rod, youve got a good tool.
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March 9th, 2016, 02:15 PM | #25 |
I'm crazy,your excuse is?
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Free shipping from online- actually its $89
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March 9th, 2016, 02:36 PM | #26 |
The Corner Whisperer
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On final note from me since MrAtom specifically mentioned "thin walled" sockets. Not all thin walled sockets are crap. Some are a specialty tool that is required to work on specific bolts due to case castings shapes and recesses. They are normally more expensive for the exact same set of thick walled sockets. So ensure what you are looking at is actually what you are wanting to buy. Thin walled doesn't always mean poor quality or lack of strength. My strongest socket is a snap-on thin walled 1/2 3/4 drive. It was used to remove head bolts from a straight six jeep engine. Damn thing cost me $40. My thick walled 6 point craftsman cracked down the side.
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March 9th, 2016, 04:04 PM | #27 |
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^^ I need to get a thin walled socket for my lug nuts. Aftermarket wheels have a small ID on the counterbore that the nut sits in...
I'll probably just turn town an individual 21mm deep well socket because that will only ever see 76 ft-lbs for that one job. Will live in the spare tire well when not in use... |
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March 9th, 2016, 05:06 PM | #28 | |
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(Costco sells better tools nowadays...) |
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March 9th, 2016, 05:10 PM | #29 |
in your machine
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About 95% of all my wrenching it use Craftsman 1/4" set, for bigger stuff like axles, sprockets, etc... I have a 3/8" set. All are 6 point sockets.
I have found that cheap sockets don't run true to size, which leads to rounding, which is no fun. Sometimes they crack as well. Buy a quality set, no matter which brand Craftsman, Snap-On, Matco, etc will be with you for a lifetime. Most of mine are over 30 years old. Also invest in a quality set of Allen keys, ball ends helps with angles. Bondhus for example. Spend the money right the first time.
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March 9th, 2016, 06:07 PM | #30 |
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Yes quality matters. I use quality tools so I can do the job now, not 20 min after I go buy another tool because the one I was using broke.
This applies to my home and items in the garage
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March 9th, 2016, 06:22 PM | #31 |
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Figure I'll weigh in since I use tools constantly as part of my job (electrician, so about every tool under the sun) and I DIY all that I can.
For sockets, the most important thing I've found isn't brand, but type. As long as you have an Impact Rated socket (normally you can tell, because an Impact Rated socket has a groove around the lower edge of it) you should be good. They're intended to be used in impact drills, beat the hell out of, etc. I've had several non-impact rated break on me, but I have never, not once, had an impact rated socket give me any trouble. That said, you can buy a decent set from Lowes (Kobalt brand) for super cheap. I think I got a huge SAE/MET set with 3 sizes of wrenches, allen keys, etc, etc for like $50 a while back? |
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March 9th, 2016, 08:52 PM | #32 |
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I have yet to taste the fine wine of Snap on or Mac, and have broken Craftsman stuff before (a normal wrench, not a socket. I was removing the pedals from a pedalbike, had a pipe over the wrench, hit the back of it with a hammer while stepping on it, and it warped the end of the wrench). So craftsman kind of leaves the taste of crap in my mouth. But, it's kind of hard to find a bolt on my bike that I haven't undone and torqued properly, either through repair, maintenance, or customization. About the only thing I haven't messed with is the engine itself (except the clutch), so there should be no surprises. Hm... I may seek out a used, more expensive set. Or just give craftsman another shot.
Also, I've never used a 12-point wrench. I've always used the 6 point. I've used the 12-point head on a wrench before to allow myself to twirl the wrench around in a circle to loosen an already loosened nut, but that's it. What's the benefit of a 12 point socket though? |
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March 9th, 2016, 09:10 PM | #33 |
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Because a 6 point socket isn't going to remove this... In my experience, these bolts are often used for high pressure/torque/heat applications or a small footprint is required. Engine head bolts, exhaust header bolts, ect... ect...
EDIT: I have never seen one on our 250's/300's, but I haven't completely disassembled a 250/300 engine.
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March 9th, 2016, 09:23 PM | #34 |
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12 point bolt heads are meant to be torqued to much higher torque values. Much more common in industrial application than in consumer automotive application.
Think about how a socket transfers torque to a nut/bolt. The more area you have engaged between the driver and the head, the better. Same reason for a torx head cap screw that uses a torx wrench vs a socket head cap screw that uses an allen wrench. More engagement for more torque. The nice side effect of a 12 point socket is that you can turn 12-sided, 6-sided, and 4-sided bolt heads so long as you're careful about it |
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March 9th, 2016, 09:32 PM | #35 |
The Corner Whisperer
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And don't forget about fudging the size. For example; a 1/2 standard sized 12 point will fit on a 13mm bolt. Where if you have high quality sockets, a 6 point 1/2 may not fit. This goes back to using the right tool vs using what you have on hand when you HAVE to get the job done.
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March 9th, 2016, 09:34 PM | #36 |
The Corner Whisperer
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OH!!! hahahahaha this is going to be the best advice about sockets you will ever get.
Buy a couple EXTRA 10mm sockets. One is NEVER enough.
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March 9th, 2016, 09:49 PM | #37 |
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^^^^ werd to both of those!!
I always lose/need another one of those pesky 10mm sockets! It's always the 10mm... |
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March 9th, 2016, 09:52 PM | #38 | |
Vintage Screwball
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Quote:
I can never find any of them.
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March 9th, 2016, 09:58 PM | #39 |
The Corner Whisperer
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Goes for sockets too. hahahaha
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March 10th, 2016, 02:35 AM | #40 |
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Buy quality tools period. You won't regret it. Cost is always a factor, so check out estate sales. There are bargains to be found in Grandpa's garage.
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[motorcyclistonline] - Combo Wrench Handles Axles and Plug Sockets | Ninjette Newsbot | Motorcycling News | 0 | March 21st, 2011 10:30 AM |
It was only a matter of time before I went down... | TnNinjaGirl | General Motorcycling Discussion | 52 | June 7th, 2009 04:31 PM |
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