cable lube

[oompa]

is it really necessary?

if so, how do you do it?

[Motofool]

Originally Posted by oompa

is it really necessary?

if so, how do you do it?

Yes !!!

Lube not only in between the cable and the holster, but the heads of the cables that pivot inside a lever.
The reason is that cables break mainly due to repeated bending.
When the heads are dry, they are twisted by the lever at each input, which bends the cable.
Cables that only purely pull, live long lives.

http://faq.ninja250.org/wiki/Lubing_the_cables

[MrAtom]

Yes, it's necessary. I've broken several cables from not using it, and reaching under the bike to move the throttle open with your finger sucks, especially on corners and U-turns.

You need an aerosol can of cable lube and a cable lube tool. Don't use something like silicone, it's too thin and it doesn't glop itself onto the cable as much as it should. and DON'T USE WD40. It's gritty when it dries and it eats up lube.

Here's this, it's a guide:

http://faq.ninja250.org/wiki/Lubing_the_cables

A couple extra tips people never told me that I learned the hard way:

If you take off the throttle control at the handlebars, GREASE EVERYTHING with thick grease, not cable lube, or your cables will snap.

Also grease up all parts that touch other parts on your clutch cable, especially parts where the cable rubs and parts where the cable's end pivots, or that cable will break, too.

Also, you could try something like this if you don't wanna buy a cable luber tool:

Link to original page on YouTube.

[Bigballsofpaint]

This is what i plan on using, since im lazy.

http://ezglidercablelube.com/

[crazymadbastard]

Originally Posted by Bigballsofpaint

This is what i plan on using, since im lazy.

http://ezglidercablelube.com/

that is Brilliant!

[chemist]

Originally Posted by Bigballsofpaint

This is what i plan on using, since im lazy.

http://ezglidercablelube.com/

That is perfect

[Ghostt]

Yes, use at least twice a season, this is what I use.

Bike Aid Dri-Slide 4oz. Lube with Needle Nozzle https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001F2Y25G..._R29lvb1ER4165

[subxero]

I have a motion pro cable lube tool and it rarely works well with out some finagling. Most cables that have some type of screw in or adjuster type connection on them tend to be problematic for it as the adjuster connector is not tight so when you spray it just comes out an inch away from where you are putting it in. The piece of tubing that can go over everything to seal the whole section will most likely be easier and less messy.

JMO

[Ghostt]

I too have the Motion Pro cable lube tool, and I must say I prefer the Dri Lube with its needle like applicator.

It a liquid, then dries to a dry form, a lot easier and a lot less mess, and waste. All cables need to be lubed.

[MrAtom]

When I use a cable luber, I think it's pretty wasteful to spray into the cable luber tool at max force, so I just slowly let it dribble into the cable until I see it come out on the other side. Takes about 2 minutes.

[Ghostt]

Originally Posted by MrAtom

When I use a cable luber, I think it's pretty wasteful to spray into the cable luber tool at max force, so I just slowly let it dribble into the cable until I see it come out on the other side. Takes about 2 minutes.

You need to try the Dri Lube, it totally changed my mind, and I'm now sold on it.

[MrAtom]

Originally Posted by Ghostt

You need to try the Dri Lube, it totally changed my mind, and I'm now sold on it.

Dry... Lube... Sounds like a contradiction.

[Ghostt]

Originally Posted by MrAtom

Dry... Lube... Sounds like a contradiction.

Goes on as a liquid, then dries.

http://www.drislide.com/products/dri...moly-lubricant

Dri-Slide* Bike Aid Lubricant, 4oz Plastic Spout-Top Bottle
Bike Aid creeps into the smallest spaces including the pins on the chain and cures to leave behind a dry film of moly. This unique dry film won't attract dirt or dust, is highly resistant to water, and prevents rust and corrosion It is the perfect lubricant to use on brake and gear cables, derailleurs, front and rear brake pivot points, shift controls, chains quick release nuts. Prevents cable freeze up. It functions properly in temperatures from -20* F to 7500* F.

[MrAtom]

Originally Posted by Ghostt

Goes on as a liquid, then dries.

http://www.drislide.com/products/dri...moly-lubricant

I'll give it a shot when I run out of my current cable lube

[asdfman]

Is chain lube an adequate substitute for cable lube?

[EsrTek]

meh... I just pull cable out of sheathing and soak it in oil then feed it back into sheathing ... takes 45 secs

[Ghostt]

Originally Posted by EsrTek

meh... I just pull cable out of sheathing and soak it in oil then feed it back into sheathing ... takes 45 secs

How do you manage that when there are ends on the cables??

[cadd]

As a bicycle commuter, I've used Tri-Flow on all my cables and derailleurs. Not only lubes, but also protects from rust as well.

[adouglas]

Originally Posted by Ghostt

I too have the Motion Pro cable lube tool, and I must say I prefer the Dri Lube with its needle like applicator.

It a liquid, then dries to a dry form, a lot easier and a lot less mess, and waste. All cables need to be lubed.

@Ghostt:

So... does the needle fit into the cable sheath?

The EZ Glider usage video shows the tube being fed right into the end of a clutch cable with no disassembly or dismounting of the cables required.

It would be very cool to not have to take stuff apart... make this as easy as chain maintenance.

[subxero]

Originally Posted by asdfman

Is chain lube an adequate substitute for cable lube?

no, you want a lube that is not going to gum up and hold dirt and grime.

[chemist]

Originally Posted by adouglas

@Ghostt:

So... does the needle fit into the cable sheath?

The EZ Glider usage video shows the tube being fed right into the end of a clutch cable with no disassembly or dismounting of the cables required.

It would be very cool to not have to take stuff apart... make this as easy as chain maintenance.

I like the video @MrAtom posted. I plan on getting a clamp and some tubing like the above video and than I should just have to unhook the cable. I ordered ghostts recommendation with the above setup in mind and hopefully I just get a little lube drip on the floor and minimal fuss.

[BlownWideOpen]

I just picked up the EZ Glider, going to see if it's easy to refill them with lube of my choice. If not, I'll grab the refills.

[asdfman]

Originally Posted by subxero

no, you want a lube that is not going to gum up and hold dirt and grime.

Thanks.

[crazymadbastard]

Originally Posted by chemist

I like the video @MrAtom posted. I plan on getting a clamp and some tubing like the above video and than I should just have to unhook the cable. I ordered ghostts recommendation with the above setup in mind and hopefully I just get a little lube drip on the floor and minimal fuss.

put a rag at the engine end of the cable

[rojoracing53]

Originally Posted by Motofool

Yes !!!

Lube not only in between the cable and the holster, but the heads of the cables that pivot inside a lever.
The reason is that cables break mainly due to repeated bending.
When the heads are dry, they are twisted by the lever at each input, which bends the cable.
Cables that only purely pull, live long lives.

http://faq.ninja250.org/wiki/Lubing_the_cables

I was browsing the feed before heading to work this morning so see if anyone need some help on here and came across this thread. I to have one of those motion pro lube tools but have not been able to find the can of spray lube for the past 6 months. After seeing Motofool's pics I thought it was a cool idea so I gave it a shot. As soon as I opened everything up I found my cable was done so I grabbed the spare set of cables Motion Pro gave me when they used my bike to design their throttle setup. Installed the new cables and it's about 30% smoother then before so that's cool. I tried Motofool's method of cable lubing on my clutch and with a couple extra steps it worked great. You need to have a rag handy because oil will seep but that's not a big deal. Thanks for motivating me to finally check my cables because they really were about to snap.

[crazymadbastard]

That is good argument against taking the easy way out. Seems that inspecting the cables is very important by product of lubing.

[rojoracing53]

I take back what I said earlier about the new cables feeling 30% better, they feel 300% better now that I've ridden it. You can't really feel the improvement until your on the bike and feeling it accelerate in relation to your wrist input. Lets just say with the new cables it feel like my throttle tube has no cables attached to it at all, it's that easy to turn now. It's to the point that it was kinda hard to hold the throttle at one speed for the first 20 mins but I'm adapting to it quickly. Just imagine a fly by wire setup but with the weakest spring for simulated feedback, it's like that.

[Singh2jz]

Here's what I use..