Still having trouble D:

[notsofast]

So I cannot get my bike to start. Ill try to be detailed!

-Brand new OEM battery...poured in the acid pack yesterday new (charged on the Yuasa charger overnight as well).
-Gauge lights, oil, and neutral indicators work. Head light and horn do not (apparently the headlight does not turn on w/o engine running, don't know about the horn).
-Starter turns the engine over. Getting a smell of fuel during repeated start up attempts.
-I have fresh new fuel, a new fuel line and fuel filter installed (removed the tiny clogged inline filter).
-Tried to bump start it today (sweating now) and it seemed to get close but i honestly wouldn't know.
-I have traced the battery leads to their end and they seem to be just fine, no kinks and no obvious corrosion (but I also wouldn't know for sure...I have only seen really intense corrosion before).
-New spark plugs w/ gap set to 0.636mm.
-I also checked for spark and seemed to get one...was far too bright outside to see it but heard a pretty solid snap.

I will add anything if I am missing something and will definitely be watching this thread to answer questions and work on your suggestions.

Thanks!

EDIT: I have extracted, rinsed and re oiled the air filter as well.

[tc.young]

Without knowing anything about your bike, you need spark, fuel and compression. You confirmed spark, compression check is put hand over the intake boot and see if its sucking (quick test, not accurate but can rule something out) and fuel or carb. Fresh gas does not mean clean carb...

[csmith12]

What condition do you think your carbs are in? When was the last time they were cleaned? Had the bike been sitting for a while?

[notsofast]

Originally Posted by tc.young

Without knowing anything about your bike, you need spark, fuel and compression. You confirmed spark, compression check is put hand over the intake boot and see if its sucking (quick test, not accurate but can rule something out) and fuel or carb. Fresh gas does not mean clean carb...

I am dreading a carb clean. Cleaning them myself is definitely cheaper, but I have never done that before.

Originally Posted by csmith12

What condition do you think your carbs are in? When was the last time they were cleaned? Had the bike been sitting for a while?

The bike sat for a bit less than one year. The previous owner apparently never had them serviced. =\

Thanks for the responses...noob in trouble here!

[csmith12]

Cleaning them is the easy part, getting them out is another matter.

[notsofast]

Originally Posted by csmith12

Cleaning them is the easy part, getting them out is another matter.

For those who have it done it themselves. Would you consider this a proper guide?

http://faq.ninja250.org/wiki/How_do_...ork_on_them%3F

and

http://faq.ninja250.org/wiki/Cleaning_the_carbs_1

My main concern is performing the removal and cleaning incorrectly.

EDIT: Would this be an appropriate time to replace the throttle and choke cables as well?

[tc.young]

That's about as good as it gets for online manuals. Best to have someone watch over your shoulder while you do it. I say remove thrm, buy a member a six pack to watch over you. Lots of members on the left coast. As for cables, some cable lube can go a long way

[notsofast]

Originally Posted by tc.young

That's about as good as it gets for online manuals. Best to have someone watch over your shoulder while you do it. I say remove them, buy a member a six pack to watch over you. Lots of members on the left coast. As for cables, some cable lube can go a long way

Thats probably a good idea. If any orange county riders who know carbs and have some free time coming up read this thread, post your favorite beer.

It seems like Ill need to gather a few materials to do this well. Hopefully have them by next weekend.

Any tips if I clean the carbs and nothing changes?

Thanks again!

[choneofakind]

For when you clean the carbs, soak them overnight like the wiki says (yes, Pinsol really works for this) and then use compressed air. I'm not fond of the idea of jamming a wire down into the jet to clean it.

Orange county huh? @Kevin2109 is there I think.

[baxtc1]

You say you have spark and fuel, you also say you have reoiled the air filter. Just curiously, you haven't got too much oil on the filter that it could restrict the air flow?

[FvnnyL3tt3r1ng]

Have you tried holding the starter while you roll on the choke?

If you try to start it too many times and there is fuel flow you'll send too much gas into the oil which means you'll have to change it.

Have you tried opening up your carbs' drain bowls to observe rate of flow while holding the starter? Your float valves have to open in order to let fuel into the carbs and they go bad from time to time. Sometimes they flood the carbs other times they won't let any/enough fuel in.

If you haven't already I would start by checking the fuel tap, then your fuel filter, then your carbs floats/float valves, pilot jets, and main jets. You could always compression test it to see if that checks out good as well.

Are you bump starting it in 2nd gear with wide open throttle? That's the only way I could get my bike to start.

[notsofast]

Originally Posted by baxtc1

You say you have spark and fuel, you also say you have reoiled the air filter. Just curiously, you haven't got too much oil on the filter that it could restrict the air flow?

Possible but unlikely, nothing changed after I cleaned it. If anything it was looking a little dry.
I followed these instructions: http://faq.ninja250.org/wiki/How_do_...lter%28s%29%3F

Originally Posted by FvnnyL3tt3r1ng

Have you tried holding the starter while you roll on the choke?

If you try to start it too many times and there is fuel flow you'll send too much gas into the oil which means you'll have to change it.

Have you tried opening up your carbs' drain bowls to observe rate of flow while holding the starter? Your float valves have to open in order to let fuel into the carbs and they go bad from time to time. Sometimes they flood the carbs other times they won't let any/enough fuel in.

If you haven't already I would start by checking the fuel tap, then your fuel filter, then your carbs floats/float valves, pilot jets, and main jets. You could always compression test it to see if that checks out good as well.

Are you bump starting it in 2nd gear with wide open throttle? That's the only way I could get my bike to start.

I have not tried rolling on the choke yet. I will likely have to change the oil. I figure ill do it while I clean out the carbs.

The fuel is flowing freely (while the engine is turning over) from the petcock after I changed the fuel lines and fuel filter. It also seems to be filling the float bowls, however I have not attempted to leave the taps open while attempting to start it and observe the flow rate. I am a little wary of this due to the possibility of spilling fuel.

During my bump start attempts I have only been able to run with it...no hills near my apartment. So only first gear attempts.

I'm not sure how I could check compression at home. I would probably have to take it to a shop for that. (?)

Thanks!

[crazymadbastard]

go to autozone and get a rental compression test tool, all it is is a pressure gauge with an adapter to screw into the spark plug hole.For rental at autozone or advance auto you buy the tool and when you return it you get your money back.

[notsofast]

When you guys submerged your carbs, how much liquid did you use? Ive got a homer bucket and 2.6gal of pine sol...just want to make sure I have enough to completely submerge the carbs and not have to rush out and get more...

Thanks again!

[choneofakind]

2.6 Gal of Pinesol??

I think you're good

[crazymadbastard]

silly question, have you tried starting fluid? sometimes with a little help the motors will magically start and clear up.

[notsofast]

Originally Posted by crazymadbastard

silly question, have you tried starting fluid? sometimes with a little help the motors will magically start and clear up.

It is probably more silly that I haven't! D:

I need to change the oil at this point anyway.

Since Im not able to start the bike...would all of the oil still drain even though its not warm?
(ultra noob question I know, but I have only done warm engines before)

[crazymadbastard]

The way I see it, I would rather change the oil and filter right away, then warm it it up to get that extra 2% old oil out by warming it up.

[notsofast]

Originally Posted by crazymadbastard

The way I see it, I would rather change the oil and filter right away, then warm it it up to get that extra 2% old oil out by warming it up.

Roger that, thanks for sticking with me here lol...noob mode.

Also, picked up the last of my materials for the job. Gonna pop the carbs out Friday. Then change the oil and reinstall/sync Saturday. Hopefully riding by Sunday.

Wish me luck, think Im flying solo. Ill take and post pics probably.

[crazymadbastard]

Good luck with it!

[notsofast]

UPDATE:

Pulled carbs! It took about an hour and a half...I really struggled with the air box. I am currently soaking the carbs, boots and some hardware in pinesol. I have completely disassembled and scrubbed the air box...no more grungy oil. I also went out and bought a new filter.

The carbs had yellow, brown and green varnish on the air box side. Ill be going through them tomorrow with carb cleaner. Today I just stuck with the outside and scrubbed with a tooth brush.

Not all good news though, those damn JIS screws...screwed me over. I was able to get out all but two. So the bowls are still attached to the main body of the carb. =\

I need to pick up vise grips and some hex head versions of the carbs screws to replace the JIS set.

I also picked up some cable lube and Im going to go at them tomorrow. As well as change the oil and filter.

What should I do with the diaphragms? I have them in a glad container to try to protect them until tomorrow...I didnt want to soak them considering how fragile they are. Any advice here is appreciated.

Finally, how should I rinse off the pine sol? I was thinking water was not such a good idea...but this is my first time doing this so I could be over thinking all of this.

Thanks!

[notsofast]

So yesterday while rebuilding the carbs, I think I found one of my problems...the spring inside the float needle was stuck. A little soak and cleaning sprung it right up. I removed all the jets and sprayed them out...little circle of light in all of them.

Unfortunately, the carb spray I bought apparently only smelt like crap and didn't actually dissolve anything...looking for something stronger. Still have some gunk around the outside of the jets...would like to get it off. Apparently I cannot buy next dimension in California....really hate this state.

[notsofast]

Further Update:

I have now reinstalled the carburetors and air box, I also did the battery box mod as I didn't feel like fooling around with it for another 5 decades. When I finished (less tank, filter and battery) I noticed a black hose clamp lying under the left side of my bike, just under the cylinder. I can't seem to find where it came from...but would rather not start the bike up without ensuring all hoses are connected.

Can anyone point me in the right direction?

Hoses I have connected:
-Crankcase vent, 1 clamp
-Airbox drain hose, 2 clamps
-CA magic box, carb Y hose 2 clamps, airbox return hose 1 clamp
-Carb vent hose, 1 clamp
-All the carb only hoses are also connected w/ their respective clamps @ both ends.

Thanks

[notsofast]

found it, changing oil then attempting startup

[notsofast]

SHE LIVES!!!

Started up finally...twisted idle knob the wrong way a few times...heh.

A few issues...
1) I have a small amount of smoke coming from under my bike.
2) I put in too much oil...
3) Idle seems to hang after a slight twist of the throttle...as in just a touch outside of the free play zone.

Gonna scour the wiki for a bit, but as always...any tips are greatly appreciated.

EDIT: I noticed this during the cleaning and reassembling phase.. is there supposed to be an extra hole in the air box? Its tiny, towards the back and completely round and smooth...so its no crack...

[notsofast]

Apparently #2 can cause #1...I am going to re-change the oil. Assuming the worst, that some of the oil was whipped into a froth, how long should I wait for that crap to drain? Assuming it happened at all...

This is a stupid question but it is purely out of ignorance and inexperience...should I change the filter again as well?

[csmith12]

Assuming you just did a test start and didn't go for a long ride.

If you overfilled your oil, then suck some out of the fill hole or just drain some out and refill as needed. No need to change the filter. I will have a look at my pregen airbox and get back with you.

[baxtc1]

The hole before the filter element is for water drain, ahould any water get in there.

[notsofast]

Originally Posted by csmith12

Assuming you just did a test start and didn't go for a long ride.

If you overfilled your oil, then suck some out of the fill hole or just drain some out and refill as needed. No need to change the filter. I will have a look at my pregen airbox and get back with you.

I didn't, just sat in the parking lot idling for 2-3 minutes. I saw the smoke and said f that. It was very little but definitely not SOP. Thanks!

Originally Posted by baxtc1

The hole before the filter element is for water drain, ahould any water get in there.

:facepalm: I should have known...thanks!!