My Bloody Pad

[LNasty]

So yesterday I installed new rear pads, EBC FA197 organic. Checked the size to the old ones, same size. I replace the fronts a few thousand miles ago with EBC FA197HH, which work well. After installing the rears I noticed that while in neutral it was hard to roll the bike. I turned bike on, pushed brake foot lever a couple times, still the same. Thought maybe they are just a little thicker than normal and need to be broken in. Rode to work and now the bike rolls a little better, but you can see on the rotor where the pads or something is running farther in towards the center of the rotor, fresh metal showing where paint used to be. Here are some pictures of what i am talking about for your amusement.

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I checked where the edges of the pads touch on the rotor and i don't see how the pads are reaching that far into the rotor
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[Motofool]

I would re-check the installation, as some metal is dragging over the disc, which is never normal.

[Roark]

Didn't even read the thread.. awesome title

[EsrTek]

Edit: From pics my thought is they are in too high ... eg maybe the caliper is on wrong?

Added photo of mine for comparison...

[Skullz]

You'll want to pull it all apart again, and this time you'll want to carefully pump out the pistons until you see clean metal, at that point get some emory cloth and clean the pistons off until they are completely cleaned from all the old crud on them and then push the pistons all the way in. You should always clean the pistons every pad change so you know that the piston will recess back into the calipers.

[alex.s]

here i thought this was a thread about maxipads

[LNasty]

I rechecked everything and looked at pics and video online and they are on right, not sure what's going on with them. Before i installed i cleaned the crap out of them as well, so the Pistons should be going out smoothly.

[csmith12]

Originally Posted by alex.s

here i thought this was a thread about maxipads

/pst... check his username.

[LNasty]

Originally Posted by Roark

Didn't even read the thread.. awesome title

Thought it would grab more attention, lol

[LNasty]

So i took everything off once again and fixed the issue, what i was doing wrong was tightening the two larger main bolts (bolts to the frame) down one at a time, which cause the caliper to torque to one side. Even after tightening the second bolt the caliper was still off center. Should have remembered that when it comes to auto or moto parts that have more than one bolt, you should alternate back and forth when torquing down. However, after getting everything back together another issue arose. I just saw that my brake light does not come on when i pull my front brake lever, it does come on when i press down on the rear brake though. Not sure what to even look at for trying to diagnose the front brake lever problem. Anyone know what could be the issue?

[crazymadbastard]

Originally Posted by LNasty

I just saw that my brake light does not come on when i pull my front brake lever, it does come on when i press down on the rear brake though. Not sure what to even look at for trying to diagnose the front brake lever problem. Anyone know what could be the issue?

first thing is check the connection at the lever.

[LNasty]

Originally Posted by crazymadbastard

first thing is check the connection at the lever.

Going to go check that now, saw a couple threads about it getting corroded due to where it is at. I ride in the rain and live in humid climate, so I am guessing and hoping that this is all it is. Also am I the only one that only uses the front brake a lot of the times? I just wonder how long it has not been working and if I have come close to someone rear ending me due to this, kind of scary. I made sure to use the rear all the way to work today.

[LNasty]

Originally Posted by crazymadbastard

first thing is check the connection at the lever.

I pulled of the switch, the contacts on the outside of the switch box are fine, but I can see at the point, right where they go inside the little box, there is some corrosion. I have tries to take the switch apart, but looks like they didnt use screw to piece the two halves together, used platic welder. has two drain holes on the bottom so am going to try the ol' baking soda and vinegar trick like on battery terminals to see if it will eat away the corrosion on inside. If that doesn't work that on to partsninja it is

[crazymadbastard]

short the two little wires with a paperclip- does the brake light work?

[LNasty]

Originally Posted by crazymadbastard

short the two little wires with a paperclip- does the brake light work?

Ah, never thought of that. Will try that real quick

[crazymadbastard]

Originally Posted by LNasty

Ah, never thought of that. Will try that real quick

that's why I get paid the big bucks around here. If paperclip don't work then you're screwd and need an R6.

[LNasty]

Originally Posted by crazymadbastard

that's why I get paid the big bucks around here. If paperclip don't work then you're screwd and need an R6.

Lol, yeah i don't thing the R6 has enough passing power, i need at least an R1, plus the wider tires will make it more stable

[LNasty]

Originally Posted by crazymadbastard

short the two little wires with a paperclip- does the brake light work?

That worked, so it is definitley the switch....R1 here I come!

Soaked switch in baking soda/vinegar, green and corrosion came off, should work now after I use compressed air to dry it out before it corrodes again

[DmbShn41]

Front brake lever switch is approx $10, PartZilla....had similar issue last season. 5 minute job to change out. You can confirm the switch being bad by putting a meter to it. Place each meter prove at appropriate contacts. Place meter in continuity mode, press the button on brake switch. Continuity should change as you press the button.

[LNasty]

Originally Posted by DmbShn41

Front brake lever switch is approx $10, PartZilla....had similar issue last season. 5 minute job to change out. You can confirm the switch being bad by putting a meter to it. Place each meter prove at appropriate contacts. Place meter in continuity mode, press the button on brake switch. Continuity should change as you press the button.

Yeah switch is bad. Will order new one. Still going to pry this one apart just because i like to see how things tick. Also not sure where you found one for $10. They are $23 on PartZilla, that is ****ing outrageous for this little plastic piece of ****

[LNasty]

Well i decided to give the switch a vinegar and baking soda bath one more time at home and low and behold it worked! Just saved having to throw away $25 on a new one that would end up doing the same thing. Will be getting some dielectric grease to throw on as many connections as I can .