April 28th, 2016, 05:53 PM | #1 |
ninjette.org member
Name: Spencer
Location: Goose Creek
Join Date: Apr 2016 Motorcycle(s): 2005 Kawasaki Ninja Ex Posts: 75
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Motorcycle Rev/Idle Problem
Hey you guys always do a excellent job of knowing what's wrong with my bike and how to fix it so I'm hoping y'all know what to do with this problem.
When I'm riding it every time I give it throttle it revs up then the revs go Down alittle than it just stays at a certain high rev. Any ideas? Sometimes it will slowly go down. example: I'm riding I give it some throttle release the throttle but the bikes revs don't go down. Last futzed with by Spencerrides; May 1st, 2016 at 06:40 AM. |
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April 28th, 2016, 07:10 PM | #2 | |
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Name: Hernan
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Quote:
What oil have you been using? Does your clutch lever has a 2 mm gap prior to pulling the cable? Does it do it more when the engine is hot than when it is cold?
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April 28th, 2016, 07:20 PM | #3 | |
ninjette.org member
Name: Spencer
Location: Goose Creek
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Quote:
Clutch Lever:I'm not sure When it's hot it does it . Could "slipping the clutch" this happen from incorrect revmatch downshifting ? |
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April 28th, 2016, 07:25 PM | #4 |
ninjette.org member
Name: Spencer
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When I down shift I...
1.Close throttle 2.pull in clutch 3.shift down 4.Give throttle 5.Slowly release clutch |
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April 28th, 2016, 08:48 PM | #5 | |
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If the speed marked by the speedometer remains constant and the rpm's marked by the tachometer fluctuate, there is some slippage among the discs of the clutch. That slippage is not good because it overheats the oil that lubricates the engine, weaken the clutch's springs and can distort the steel discs of the clutch, creating other problems. Please, check these links out: http://faq.ninja250.org/wiki/Lubing_the_cables http://faq.ninja250.org/wiki/Adjusting_the_clutch_cable http://faq.ninja250.org/wiki/Preferred_Brands http://faq.ninja250.org/wiki/How_do_...ping_clutch%3F The simplest thing to check is that there is absolutely no pressure on the lever that is located at the top of the clutch cover when clutch is not applied: it should have a little but noticeable slack of the cable. If not, two things may be happening: the cable is not lubricated and/or the adjustment of the lever at the handlebar is incorrect.
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Motofool .................................Never ride faster than your guardian angel can fly "Mankind is composed of two sorts of men — those who love and create, and those who hate and destroy. Love is the bond between men, the way to teach and the center of the world." - José Martí |
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April 29th, 2016, 06:19 AM | #6 | |
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Quote:
insufficient throttle cable freeplay? throttle mechanism or cable(s) need clean/lube? internal carb issue? fuel delivery problem...starvation causing lean condition? You've got some homework to do.... bike at rest, key off ...open throttle fully...release...does throttle snap back on its own? ALL the way back to closed?
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April 29th, 2016, 06:45 AM | #7 | |
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Name: Spencer
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Quote:
Dang I didn't know bikes were high maintenance , I'm going to make a video today. Yea the throttle snapped back in place But the bike this morning isn't acting up at all. It's usually starts to happen after I ride it for a really long time. Could it be from overheating? |
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April 29th, 2016, 07:10 AM | #8 | |
ninjette.org member
Name: Spencer
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Quote:
Could this be from overheating? |
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April 29th, 2016, 07:22 AM | #9 |
in your machine
Name: Scott
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Tank vent issue?
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April 29th, 2016, 09:37 AM | #10 |
I'm crazy,your excuse is?
Name: Winston
Location: Connecticut
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You just got the bike. I would do a oil and filter change first, along with what already stated.
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April 29th, 2016, 09:41 AM | #11 |
ninjette.org member
Name: Spencer
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A 05 Ninja problem on Video
Here is the video showing the problem.
I Apologize for my last thread it was kind of confusing. Hopefully this shows the problem a lot clearer. Happens after riding the bike for a while. Please respond thank you. https://youtu.be/L5RhZuAEO98 My apologies about last thread. https://youtu.be/L5RhZuAEO98 |
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April 29th, 2016, 09:42 AM | #12 |
Vintage Screwball
Name: B
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No video?
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April 29th, 2016, 09:46 AM | #13 |
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April 29th, 2016, 09:47 AM | #14 |
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Have your valves adjusted my good man... it's time. Odd though, bike has less than 7k on the clock. Hmmmm.... valves are still possible, but the more i hear that sound, the more it sounds like the cam chain or really crappy oil. Hard to tell... :\ EDIT: You sound like a smart fellow. I am assuming the oil is at proper level and not contaminated with anything? Gas maybe? Here is my thought, if you have a carb issue that is causing your bike to rev like that, then possibly the gas is overflowing into the oil. Check that out before you ride again, your right... it aint good for your bike.
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April 29th, 2016, 09:48 AM | #15 |
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It's not a clutch issue (if I understand what you've typed and it's that revs hang with a closed throttle, not that revs drop with constant throttle), so the places to look at throttle and fuel/air.
I don't know if this is diagnostically relevant, but if you blip the throttle a few times when the revs start to hang, does that help the problem at all or do they just continue to hang? Also, approximately what RPM does it hang at when you're experiencing the issue?
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April 29th, 2016, 10:05 AM | #16 |
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April 29th, 2016, 10:12 AM | #17 |
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badly out of synch carbs or throttle plate(s) hanging up?
Potentially dangerous....make sure your kill switch operates correctly if/when riding....up until you get the carbs inspected and serviced, valves checked, oil changed as was suggested by cs smith above.
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April 29th, 2016, 10:13 AM | #18 |
ninjette.org member
Name: Spencer
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Possibility of contaminated gasoline, I used a used portable gas tank to fill it up with unleaded 87 gasoline.
The portable gas tank I used was not used for like a year so any liquid I figured would have been evaporated... so I thought would leave minimum contamination. I also filled about 7/8 to the top Just checked the oil gauge when I checked it from a standing upright position the oil was filled completely, also the oil seemed darker than usual. |
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April 29th, 2016, 10:36 AM | #19 |
ninjette.org guru
Name: xorbe
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Air leak around the boot area?
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April 29th, 2016, 11:20 AM | #20 |
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Have you been messing with the idle screw a lot? Maybe close it up all the way and start from zero and get your idle set?
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April 29th, 2016, 11:21 AM | #21 |
Rev Limiter
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I would say you could use a valve adjustment, carb cleaning, and carb sync.
The reason it goes to 4000 after making the idle speed adjustment is because you turned it a bunch. Turn it a little, give it a quick rev, then check it again. Turning it 3 turns will make it idle at 4000. Idle mixture screws are probably set too lean. Be sure to remove the caps and set them at 2 turns out. If there's any question about the gas, save yourself a lot of headache and drain it. Refill with fresh gas and get the engine warm before making any adjustments. |
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April 29th, 2016, 12:08 PM | #22 | |
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Quote:
I'd go ahead and get your idle speed set to somewhere between 1200 and 1500 RPM (or whatever you prefer, but that seems to be the norm) and see if you can replicate the problem you described earlier. If this IS the problem you described earlier, then it looks like it's an easy fix!
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April 29th, 2016, 01:15 PM | #23 |
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Name: Spencer
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Hey guys on my carburetor there's a big hole on of the sides should their be a hose in that spot because I have 2 long hoses hanging down and 2 short ones hanging down is that normal?
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April 29th, 2016, 01:18 PM | #24 | |
Rev Limiter
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Quote:
Here's a bunch of photos of the ninja's carbs that may help - http://faq.ninja250.org/wiki/Carburetor_photos |
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April 29th, 2016, 02:31 PM | #25 |
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Post pics. If you can't for some reason (less than 10 posts etc), drop them on imgur and post the image IDs.
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April 29th, 2016, 09:23 PM | #27 |
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Just sold my N250 + manuals, but the 3rd pic, I think that's the air box drain / or removed smog equipment. Someone else has to chime in on the carb.
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April 30th, 2016, 05:22 AM | #28 | |
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The big hole is a "welsh" plug. Its a permanently plugged factory port....no touchee, and no hoses attach to it. The carb body "holes" are engineered and manufactured for the fuel paths, vents and throttle shafts. Keihin (the carb manufacturer) then installs needed inner components and caps the access holes off, which is what you are pointing at. Intricate little buggers, aren't they?
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April 30th, 2016, 07:30 AM | #29 | |
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Name: Spencer
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Quote:
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April 30th, 2016, 07:37 AM | #30 |
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Name: Spencer
Location: Goose Creek
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April 30th, 2016, 07:40 AM | #31 | |
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Name: Spencer
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Quote:
I Also accidently rode my bike with the choke Half way on one day by accident that same day it started giving me this issue. |
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April 30th, 2016, 07:45 AM | #32 | |
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Quote:
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April 30th, 2016, 07:49 AM | #33 | |
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Quote:
Adjusting the idle screw a lot doesn't always immediately take, until you blip the throttle. Small turns, blip. Small turn, blip. Get it set to just under the 1500 RPM mark. See if the issue persists.
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April 30th, 2016, 07:54 AM | #34 |
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did a retake on your video-- I concur you are making too radical a change too quickly to the idle....from one extreme to the other.
obviously, choke is ok to get started when cold/cool but gradually, slowly ease off it as soon as engine is able to idle You want around 1200-1300 RPM *bike fully warmed*. Slowly adjust...up or down to achieve this. Then....warmed, idling smoothly at that RPM...IF there is any hanging up when throttling and releasing...a further problem exists. Try it...see what you get.
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April 30th, 2016, 07:56 AM | #35 |
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April 30th, 2016, 08:16 AM | #36 |
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If you still have an issue, read the DYIs here how to clean and adjust your bike, they are good and you can do it. If you think not, PM ducatiman, he will do a better job then your local guy for less.
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April 30th, 2016, 10:00 AM | #37 |
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^ thank you allan......and *yes i can*, correct on both counts
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May 1st, 2016, 06:05 AM | #38 |
ninjette.org member
Name: Spencer
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Guys Please forgive how ignorant I am when it comes to motorcycles.
I Was adjusting the idle before the bike completely warmed up thinking it was running to low but when heated up it skyrocketed. Yesterday I reset the idle screw completely and adjusted it now it working correctly... I think When I stop accelerating or at stop sign it will idle at like 2000 for several seconds then eventually drop to 1300-1100. Will keep updating |
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May 1st, 2016, 06:14 AM | #39 | |
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Quote:
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May 1st, 2016, 06:25 AM | #40 |
ninjette.org certified postwhore
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Nothing to forgive. I am very happy we were able to help you save a trip to the shop as well as lurkers with the same issues. They should thank you for posting.
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