May 13th, 2016, 05:53 PM | #1 |
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Removing Handle bar Ends?!
Is it just me and my bike or is it ridiculously difficult to remove the screws to take off the handle bar ends? Any tips/suggestions on how to get these bad boys off?
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May 13th, 2016, 06:07 PM | #2 |
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It's a case of using heat and the right tool for the job. The bolts are long and have threadlocker applied to them from the factory.
To remove them, heat up the handlebar with a heatgun/torch and use an impact driver with a JIS bit or something with the closest fit. |
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May 13th, 2016, 06:17 PM | #3 |
I'm crazy,your excuse is?
Name: Winston
Location: Connecticut
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^^ dead on, you can read about it here:
http://faq.ninja250.org/wiki/Removin...acing_bar_ends |
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May 13th, 2016, 06:29 PM | #4 |
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What would happen if I put a rag over the bar end its self and clamp it n turn n try loosening the screw that way? Loosen the screw by loosening the bar end itself if that makes sense??? Lol I read that somewhere online but maybe some of you tried that and maybe it caused more damage than good?
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May 13th, 2016, 06:33 PM | #5 | |
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Quote:
You can also drill the head of the bolt, remove the bar end and then clamp the stump of the bolt.
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May 13th, 2016, 06:37 PM | #6 |
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Thanks for all the advice! I'll go see if I can borrow some tools from a friend lol. Didn't think something that looked so simple to do would end up so complicated for myself. I still can't believe how difficult it is to just remove a screw lol
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May 13th, 2016, 11:43 PM | #7 |
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Its because of the red loctite on the screw. Heat, either by heat gun or lighter, will loosen the hold and make it easier to remove.
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May 14th, 2016, 08:37 AM | #8 |
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To get mine off, I just stuck my soldering iron in the cross on the screw head. It was simple and didn't get excessive heat anywhere else.
On tough screws, I'll sometimes put a driver bit in a socket and use the ratchet for more leverage. You just have to be careful that the extra leverage isn't just stripping the screw out faster.
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May 14th, 2016, 10:17 AM | #9 |
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This is one of those times when you get one shot to do it right.
Mangle that screw and you're... well... screwed. Not terminally, of course, but it'll be a huge pain to make right. DEFINITELY go get an impact driver and use the biggest bit that will fit. You may have trouble finding a JIS bit big enough. I used what came with the driver and it was fine. DEFINITELY use heat. Don't attack it before doing these things, because all you'll do is mess up the screw head. In case you're not familiar, we're talking about a handheld impact driver, not an impact wrench. One of these: I only use mine maybe once a year... but when you need it, you REALLY need it. It's saved endless grief for me over the years. Best to whack it with a dead-blow hammer (also useful to have in your toolbox... I use mine every time I take my wheels off). Not mandatory, but a good idea.
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May 14th, 2016, 10:22 AM | #10 |
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This is one of those cases where the real effort is in getting the right tools vs the effort behind it that gets the job done.
On a side note, you are seeing the power of loctite. That stuff is awesome when you need it.
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May 14th, 2016, 06:40 PM | #11 |
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Thanks guys, didn't see some of the reply till now but just got it off with a ratchet and #3 screwdriver bit! One person holding the handle bars and the other turned and SUCCESS! no stripping of screw whatsoever. Thanks for the advice n help. Didn't have some of those other tools so had to give the ratchet a try before asking to borrow tools!
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May 14th, 2016, 08:22 PM | #12 |
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The only way I got mine off was an easy out and a wrench. Then I threw them away and didn't notice any vibration. Years of riding vibrating bikes, I must have built up an immunity.
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May 14th, 2016, 08:26 PM | #13 |
I'm crazy,your excuse is?
Name: Winston
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So why did you want to remove em anyway? some new grips going on?
We need to know! |
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May 14th, 2016, 08:30 PM | #14 |
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Your talking about car tires correct? I never even though about using a mallet. I just use my fist. Its not like it hurts, and it seems like a waste of time to grab a mallet.
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May 15th, 2016, 12:40 AM | #15 |
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Exactly this. Took me two seconds to take mine off.
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May 15th, 2016, 04:04 AM | #16 | |
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I don't remember what the axles on the Ninjette were like... because I never did take the wheels off that bike. But I do it all the time on my current bikes because.... track.
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May 15th, 2016, 08:28 AM | #17 |
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I don‘t use any things to put the axle in on a motorcycle. If the axle is binding something is lined up incorrectly.
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May 15th, 2016, 10:34 AM | #18 |
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True. But when wrestling a big, heavy sportbike rear wheel while trying to keep the spacers from falling out and the brake caliper lined up all at the same time, it makes life a lot easier if you can just give it a few taps without worry of damage.
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May 15th, 2016, 04:08 PM | #19 |
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May 19th, 2016, 11:22 AM | #20 |
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I removed mine, and as others have said; red loctite is to blame.
However I didn't need any heat or special drivers, just a large size philips, and elbow grease. |
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May 19th, 2016, 02:58 PM | #21 |
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That was a hsaale, but I didn't use heat either, just a ratchet and #3! But just to let everyone else know, I did see a guy use a hair blow dryer to heat it up for 5 minutes and it worked!! Lol
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May 19th, 2016, 03:27 PM | #22 |
I'm crazy,your excuse is?
Name: Winston
Location: Connecticut
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Sometimes we tend to overthink projects...
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May 20th, 2016, 10:39 AM | #23 |
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OP's prob is already solved, but I personally went with the drill method.
I've used a rubber mallet (or a boot) to get axles started on their way out, but haven't yet used one to get an axle back in. Fortunately captive spacers and pull cups are adequately cheap and make the wrestle you mention that much easier.
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